seanl82

I'd love to come to this, but I can't plan my life this far in advance at the moment! Hopefully there will still be spaces on the stand in the spring and I can book then.

The pedal position sensor is just held in by a ring clip. It needed a good tug to get it out, but wasn't difficult to get out. Mine was actually the connector in the end, but I bought a brand new PPS and fitted that, so I think I still have my original one that was tested good. I cant remember if it sold or not before I left with a few other bits, but if I still have it and you're in no great rush, give me a nudge around Christmas time and I'll see if I can dig it out.

Clear them all first mate, then go from there. Pedal position sensor is below the brake fluid reservoir and easy to change, its just getting hold of one that could be a problem. There was someone who refurbished them but can't remember who. I think its just dry solder joints anyway so if you feel you can split it yourself, it should be an easy fix. Have a search, it was mentioned on here about a year ago iirc. Usually if its pump, it'll say outlet or inlet valve. Have a look on the rosstech website for exact codes though as it may give you a better indication. Check the plugs under the rear seat bases are pushed home properly though first, I thought I had an intermittent problem as mine would illuminate when going over harsh bumps which is all it turned out to be in the end!!!

I wouldnt worry too much mate, its most likely just the cam cover gasket leaking. The KR gasket comes in 2 parts. 1 for the outer edge of the head, and a smaller one that goes around the plug recesses. Its this one that leaks and allows oil into the plug chambers. Quick cheap and easy fix!

There are quite a few of us in the Hampshire/West Sussex area too. There was a meet organised a while back that was quite well attended, although I think its the time of year where lots are tucked up in the dry and off the road now. Spring time would be good as they'll all be coming out of hibernation!

Shouldn't the shorter of the two be much bigger in diameter?

@SR_Neale Check your thermostat is working properly first. When you start the car from cold, feel the lower radiator hose. If it starts warming up quickly then its almost certainly the thermostat. It should remain cold(ish) until up to 87 degrees at which point the stat should open, pass through the bottom hose and allow coolant to circulate around the radiator. If its correct though, (its a valver you have isn't it?), remove the bypass valves and put some copper pipe in its place to ensure the coolant is circulating around the matrix.

Welcome back to the Corrado fold Matt!! Not many Corrados left on the roads, although there seems to be a pretty decent Scottish contingent. There will be even less now winter is creaping in as there are very few daily drivers anymore. Have a look in the Wiki section, or do a search on google using the words "corrado.net-how to replace mirror glass" or words to that effect, which should throw up a how to mate. Which style RXs are you after? Quite a few RXII about in 16" as they were on most of the Mk4 Golfs, although no doubt most will need a refurb. RX228s are quite a bit harder to come by in 16" and not sure what fitment they'll be either as I don't think they were done in this size for VAG cars. Lastly, yep, Lupo GTI (2 x drivers side) or Audi TT wiper arms are the recommended way to go. Not cheap from the dealer but they do crop up from time to time on here and ebay etc.. A must upgrade IMO too mate. Anyway, make yourself at home, its a friendly bunch here so any questions fire away!!!

ABF was 150 bhp standard..........

There was a thread on here regarding these a couple of days ago mate. Came well recommended by quite a few and are very cheap! I have one on the passenger side, and although its good for the money, I'd recommend getting it powdercoated as its bare metal and corrodes quite quickly.

Not looked through it myself, but pretty sure everything you need will be listed in this thread somewhere mate. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?36117-The-Forced-Induction-20V-Thread

I got some from ARZ tuning last year. If you can stomach the postage price, they were actually good value. I got quite a bit from there so the postage cost was offset over the lot which helped.

Proper cheap and nasty chinese rip off parts on ebay. I've seen front sensors for as little as £4 on there.

Rear top mounts are obsolete now. Can't remember how much individually they were but front top mounts, bearings and top plates cost me around £80 this time last year! Edit: should have read your post properly, you've been in contact with Thursdave so know this already!.

No I didn't send it off in the end. I didn't realise initially that you cannot reset ABS error codes on VCDS from the main page. You have to go into the ABS specific menu and do it there. Once I'd done that, there was no other fault code beside the pedal position sensor which fixed the problem. :)

I got a quote for an ABS pump recon from BBS Raman about a year ago. Iirc it was around the £150 mark but cant be sure. Turns out my pump was good after all anyway.

Do we know for sure the car hadn't already had them replaced???

I'm gutted I won't be able to watch it. :( Still, its being recorded on series link so at least its there for my return in December! Lots of info on this thread though please fellas, I'm not worried about it being ruined for me when I get back, I want to know what they have to say and do!!!! :)

Hard to resist that slight tweek despite how good they look standard eh Daren. Either way, it'll look fantastic with whatever of the two options you decide mate. :)

That is extremely impressive but its what a car of that caliber deserves I think, which is why its in good hands now too. Mine was a bit sketchy before I took ownership, with just a few random receipts scattered over the years aside from the service book which also has a bit of a gap for a couple of years. I've since kept all receipts for work I've done obviously, but written a record when/what I've done with servicing and maintenance routines, and even kept a log of parts I've replaced with second hand bits and dates, just to build up a history to show the car is being looked after finally.

Congrats on your purchase! I preferred the 1.8 over the 2.0 16v personally, but you do need to rev it to get the best out of it. The 2.0 has more torque low down but felt very flat to me. The 1.8 really pulled well above 3.5k rpm. For some reason, parts are a bit cheaper on the earlier cars too which is a bonus. Gets some pics when it arrives, and what are your plans with it mate? :)

Not at all mate. As long as you can get the multi spline bolts out then its really simple. Just remove the large hub nut behind the wheel centre cap, remove the 6 multi spline bolts from the gearbox end of the drive shaft, and it should pull straight out with a gentle tap.

I have one of these on my O/S. Its ok, but the driveshaft is just turned steel so corrodes very quickly (just looks a bit unsightly I suppose). Worth getting a bit of paint or powdercoat on to preserve them, but yeah its a great price. I just needed an outer CV boot, but as I find it easier to remove the entire driveshaft to fit them, I just thought why not do the whole lot!

Ok I didn't know that, I stand corrected!

Its very common the reading being low on the gauge. Change the appropriate temp sensor (cant remember which colour sorry!) and check out what the ECU is reading too, as that is off of a different sensor. Very much doubt there is anything wrong with any part of the cooling system, so just keep an eye on your oil temps through the MFA, that'll dictate which map is running and have the effect on engine wear.