seanl82

Yep, plastic nuts either side of the tunnel, and the four screws for the hump bracket too mate.

Ok mate, thanks. :thumbleft:

You should be able to manoeuvre it out without removing the subframe, but you'll need to do most from underneath. It can be done without, but I'd seriously suggest getting it on a ramp for ease of access mate. Fitting should be very easy, its just removing the studs from the old one that'll cause you serious buggerance!

Hi Jamie, yeah thats fine mate. Just to let you know, the passenger seat back has wires running horizontally across acting as the spring frame if you understand my meaning. A couple of these have been cut, but you can replace them either from your old set or improvise with something similar very cheaply. Let me know if you still want it all and I'll keep it all aside for you mate. Cheers.

David, you really need to use a machine to get decent results when polishing plastics. I did someones Merc headlights a few months back that were very cloudy and yellowed. Went from 1500 grit up to 2500 grit then machined a couple of times, and they came out much much better. No cloudiness or yellowing at all. Bear in mind though that by sanding them you remove any UV protection, so you really need to keep on top of them and protect from then on otherwise they'll go yellow again mate. Same can be done on glass.

I saw those pics and thought "WTF!" Then realised its black and not my old dead valver! Mine was DBP with Borbet C's mate. Good effort and it looks extremely clean. Testament to the care that has been taken whilst laid up for it to all be good mate. Well done.:thumbleft:

tbh = to be honest. Sorry I should use better English myself, especially when speaking to someone who may not understand! My apologies! :thumbleft:

Of course you can buddy. I assume you'd like to collect? PM when is best for you and I'll give you my address. I'm off work until Tuesday so anytime that suits you should be fine, or after 5pm if later than Tuesday mate.

You can use either but I'm not sure on the specifics tbh. I only know this as the Fabia VRS lot use the Turbo from a Fabia TDI 130 as an upgrade. :thumbleft:

Classicline don't use a NCB iirc, and you definitely can't gain additional NCB whilst on their policies mate. Dunno if it'd be an option tbh. I think you'll be alright with a couple of days break in insurance provided you don't leave yourself open to the law and its on private property. I don't understand why a lot of insurance companies are only available until 12 on a Saturday either! Surely its the busiest day of the week for people buying cars! :shrug:

The ISV is what I'm getting at buddy. If there is no difference between it being unplugged and plugged in, that suggests to me that could be the problem. I thought that I'd left a bit of masking tape over the inner part of the inlet when I painted it, as when I put it all back on it was giving the symptoms your getting. When I revved and it dropped down toward idle it would carry on down to about 500rpm before recovering as well. I cleaned the ISV at the same time too as painting the inlet but it didn't occur to me that this was a problem. I started to take it all back off to make sure there was no masking tape left on, and realised the plug for the isv wasn't pushed home properly. I put it back on and it was fine. I've since been out and started it up and its intermittent as to whether it splutters a bit or not. If I switch off then back on, it usually runs as it should.

I can send you this for the price of postage if your still after it mate.

Not a problem Phil, bear in mind that the base part of the drivers one is very worn, but I'll do the same and let you know in the morning mate. :thumbleft:

Have you tried it with the isv unplugged Rob? See if it makes a difference between being plugged in then unplugged. I cleaned mine last week and its actually developed an intermittent problem like what your symptoms are. :bad-words:

I'll measure and weigh them tomorrow morning, then get a postage and packing quote for you Rob. I'll stick it here so let me know mate. :thumbleft:

EmGreenVR6 kindly passed on her old late interior to me for free, and I've now taken what I need. I'm therefore offering anything anybody wants for free to collect or for postage costs. I'm happy to split as required but please bear in mind I'm doing it for free so postage may not be immediate, I'll get it out when I can but won't leave you hanging too long. I'll give it until the end of the weekend then if no-one wants anything I'll take it to the tip. All I've taken are the passenger upper and lower bolster to replace my drivers ones, and the passenger outer tilt hook cover, and a set of cables for the tilt release. Everything else as pictured below is available with descriptions for each. Door cards front and rear all in good usable condition, and in this colour. Both rear door cards in excellent condition with bottom pointy bits intact and strong. Both front door cards in decent condition, although a little separation of the vinyl at the top where the inner window trim sits. A bit of fabric adhesive and it'll be fine. Also a small gouge on drivers side as pictured. Rear bench seats with hump that I forgot to get a pic of before I packed it away, but its in great condition with no immediately visible stains, wear, rips or tears anywhere. Front seats - Passenger has been split to acquire the bolsters, but fabric is in fantastic condition and removed from the frame ready to go. Bottom half is ideal for anyone that needs it to replace a worn or ripped bottom. Drivers bottom part is junk although the bolsters are both in very good usable condition, as is the upper part. The seat is intact at the moment but I'll split it down if anyone just wants a part from it. The inner tilt release cable is snapped however, and I broke one of the tilt handles when removing it from the car after collection. Passenger fabric - Drivers seat - Drivers Bolster with minimal wear - Let me know if there is anything you need.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221270798414?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 another 99p start.

294 cams!!?? That'll be "interesting" to drive in traffic............

No you've got it all wrong, that only works on Corsas and Saxos as they are "special" :lol:

I saw a comparison done back to back on a dyno for a mk3 Golf GTI 16v iirc. they had a standard airbox with a genuine paper filter, a "performance" panel filter, and a cone filter. There wasn't much difference between the two panel filters but the paper filter made the most power, with the cone well below both the panels due to heat soak. I do have a K&N panel in mine, but its simply because I bought the car with it in and as its a lifetime filter, a quick clean every now and again and job done. Cheaper in the long run for minimal losses. (About 0.3 bhp iirc).

I'd always used a set of circlip pliers and some brute force previously, but the last time I did it on the Corrado it just wasn't happening! I had to borrow a windback tool from a forum member (very kind of him to offer) and it worked a treat! There is a recess for the plate in the tool itself, and it sits against the inside of the outer part of the caliper if that makes much sense. It basically sits where the outer pad would go. You need to take up all the slack so its forced against the caliper, then when you turn it'll stay in place. It still needed quite a lot of force, but that's good thinking about the bias valve. I didn't know about that but it worked in the end.

Agreed a magnificent example going on pics and description. Although I cant help thinking its still a bit too much. I'd expect a stealth fitted turbo or something for 6k.......

Problem with Halon is that its very dangerous if inhaled. I don't know the legalities surrounding it in public areas or for public usage. We have them in our engine rooms and it is very very affective. Even when we're wearing BA we need to vacate if its gonna be used. Although obviously if we're likely to loose further compartments by delaying, those in the space are ultimately expendable!

Don't need to mate. I've done a little firefighting in my time! :onfire:

There are pros and cons to them all tbh. Water will separate in an oil based fire so will be no good for that, Foam as well as water will fry electrical components, Dry powder has no cooling properties and will just blanket everything and make a mess, And Co2 isn't very good for oil based fires. Personally I'm going for foam as it offers the best level of protection for all fires, and its a risk worth taking to replace a bit of wiring or components in the event it damages anything.