seanl82

111,260 or 111,126 miles would be my guess...............

Iron out or other Iron removers are excellent, but won't remove all surface contaminants that clay will. There are a couple of pics on my gallery showing Iron-X at work and it really is good stuff! The Iron Out does exactly as it says really, removes Iron and ferrous metal fallout that has been airborn. If you have a white or silver car, you may have noticed very small little rust spots all over the paint from time to time. This removes it all, and its amazing how much is actually on there! The clay removes some of this, but also concentrates on other things like tree sap and carbon deposits as well as tar etc. Again tar remover will be better for what its supposed to be for, but clay is a great all rounder when you don't want or need to do a FULL decontamination of the paintwork. Great write up though Fay, I've not used the Nanolex shampoos or any Blackfire Polishes tbh. I'll deffo look into the Blackfire when I need a new polish in the not too distant future! :thumbleft:

---------- Post added at 9:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:02 AM ---------- [/color] If you can find it, how much for the plastic handbrake cover and B pillar trims posted? Thanks, Sean.

My team is Bristol City. Having been relegated to league1 after being on the verge the last couple of years, I'm optimistic that we should have at least a fighting chance of a play off place. We were underachievers the last couple of years with the quality we had, although most of the decent players were in the wrong position to stave off relegation. With the majority of decent players now gone to teams still in the Championship, we have added some young yet talented players. Albert Adomah is our star and will be phenomenal in league1 if we keep hold of him, although as his contract is up next summer and Wigan, Palace, and Cardiff all falling short of our estimations on what he is worth, know they have us over a barrel as the price is dwindling week upon week the longer it drags on. Financially we should cash in now. Financial fair play has also forced our hand a little, but Steve O'Driscoll is a man we trust to turn things around and re-energise the club. Apart from the federations cup its been a miserable summer for me so I cant wait for it to begin! COYR!

I kind of agree with Dox. The list you want doing is going to cost you a fair whack anyway so the little saving and extra hassle will be offset. The price stealth quote will include things like gaskets etc. Bear in mind they'll have a trade account anyway, and have never been accused of ripping people off, I think the price for parts will be pretty decent regardless. You'll be paying very little extra for labour either as most of the stuff you're saying will need to come off regardless. I'd give them a bell and ask for a quote as well as any suggestions they may have to replace things. They may well be happy for you to supply parts, they're quite a friendly bunch by all accounts!

You'll need to have a play with the Konigsports though. They have adjustable dampening, but they need to be off the car to adjust! Mine are set a little firm for my liking, and I can't be arsed to remove them yet to adjust! KW V1-3 seem to be all the rage though.

Shocked and surprised like everyone else! I've said the same thing in Jims thread, but every single one of us will eventually move on. Lots of peoples time for that has come now, and most have been very very good examples. If you can afford to run a TT as a runaround, and your keeping the lid on the "dream car", I'd say its not about making loads of money and you can afford it anyway. Put it up for sale as a whole, have your price in mind and keep to it quite strictly ensuring you maximise the money you'll get, and if it doesn't sell then break it for parts. Others are moving on as they don't want to plough any more money into a car where they'll never see a return on that outlay. You've done the big expensive stuff, and have another car in mind so that's fair enough. Time to pass the baton on to the next person, and remember your time in Corrado ownership fondly.

Excellent work Sean, you'll have an amazing car when its all back together! :thumbleft:

Can I suggest that image is rotated round 180 degrees for the all new forum error screen...............:|

The "wet" type longlife filters are reported quite alot to kill MAFs. Give the filter a clean, but don't re-oil it. You wont do damage by not oiling it, even though the oil is supposed to stop even more dirt particles passing as it clings to them. Take the MAF off and give it a spray over with electrical contact cleaner too. What is the ISV damper? (forgive my ignorance). Is it the TB damper what yor talking about? As that could cause revs to drop too low. A bit of careful tweeking as its adjustable may raise the revs by a couple of hundred and leave you without worry, or the damper itself may be shot and need replacing.

When you say handbrake trim and leather part, do you mean the top plastic cover and leather handle? If so, I'll take that off your hands posted please mate. Also if not going with the handle itself, how much would you be asking for the passenger lock barrel, retaing clip, and lock mechanism please bud? Thanks, Sean.

Really Jim! :scratch: JB, just remember that the grass isn't always greener! No matter what car you buy of any generation, it'll cost you money. I entirely understand if its your daily, but getting another car of similar age will only result in you throwing money at that too. People whine about how high Corrado parts are, but when it comes to consumables (clutch/pumps/brake disks & pads/service items etc) then its actually quite cheap. Compare that to a newer car, and it'll cost you probably double for each of those items. Same goes for most of the older non VAG cars about that don't share a platform with another. Inevitably people get bored or just loose the enthusiasm of owning a Corrado, I'm not there yet but I'm not immune. There comes a time when everyone has to pass the baton on, and you've owned the car far longer than most JB so for that.........:salute:

Don't have a PN by any chance do you Tony? I'm after one as well! Its ok, got it. Light Beige - 535711463 4YV Platinum (Grey?) - 535711463 9DK Black - 535711463 4FB

Hmmmmm, I bought my yellow tint for the fogs from it before no trouble at all...........

Not sure how often he comes on now. He's gone and bought himself a Lexus, and relegated the Rado to the garage last time I'd heard. He was talking about selling, but not sure if he has. Here you go though. http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=lamin-x&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CDgQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lamin-x.co.uk%2F&ei=Z5D2UcLODsfKhAf_74GYCA&usg=AFQjCNFioyyZ96zlaYxG3TE-DbZfVHBe5A

Payment sent! Thanks mate, Sean.

Hi Dan, I'll take the steering wheel please mate. Can you PM me your details please. Thanks, Sean.

Is there still a group buy on VT mounts? Personally if I was replacing all three, I'd go VT front, and OE rear and gearbox from TPS if you have one local.

No I didn't do it mate. Its basically just the missus filming a lap, and her commenting when I jump on the go pedal on the exit to the second chicane. She'd kill me if I put it on as its a bit rude............... :silent:

Take the time out you need, then come back with renewed enthusiasm when your ready bud! Whereabouts in Bristol are you Baz? My folks live in Oldland Common and I'm up there visiting quite regularly. I can get them to pick up, or I can if it coincides with reference to the parts you will be selling that may appeal mate.

I've got a similar problem although mine starts after 5 or 6 seconds and only when left for around 15 minutes. It fires straight away when cold, and even when warm within the 15 minutes or so from switching off. I'm pretty sure mine is fuel related, and likely to be the FPR being unable to hold pressure in the rail for that time. Could be a similar issue for you mate.

Alright mate, interested in the steering wheel. Is the outer skin still attached to the frame of the wheel around the top? (If you know what I mean - the padding and leather doesn't twist back and forth). If all is ok, how much would you be after posted? Thanks, Sean.

Depends how low you wanna go. For up to about 30mm I'd recommend lowering springs and uprated shocks. This stops the car looking like a scared cat, yet retains comfort. Lowering springs can be had for a good price as well. If you want to go lower, then you'll need coilovers. With everything, you pay for what you get. For twice the price of a good set of springs, you'll get a budget set of coilovers. They'll do what you want, but 9 out of 10 they will be seriously hard and crashy. My advice would be to get a good used set of coilovers, that way you'll get a good set for a decent price, and the better manufacturers have replacement parts if anything should go wrong down the line, and its much cheaper than getting a whole new budget set that could fail in a year or two anyway! Arches would only need work if your going really low or have high or low? offset wheels (I forget which ones which!), so its whatever you decide really. Don't forget to get 4 wheel alignment done after lowering. Often overlooked, but will make a world of difference! Good luck with what you choose.

Bolts are single nyloc so the droplinks are very easy to replace. Bushes are also worth doing, but if you do them after the droplinks theres no need to drop the whole ARB. Aftermarket ARBs are very expensive, and I doubt (although not from experience) you'd notice any difference in most of the driving your likely to do. Do them first, but look at your top mounts too whilst its on the ground. Have a look at the sticky http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=41755 as clunking over speedbumps can be a sign they're worn.

I think he mean't getting them welded over and flattened off, which is a good idea actually unless your set on a roof rack!