seanl82

Can I suggest that image is rotated round 180 degrees for the all new forum error screen...............:|

The "wet" type longlife filters are reported quite alot to kill MAFs. Give the filter a clean, but don't re-oil it. You wont do damage by not oiling it, even though the oil is supposed to stop even more dirt particles passing as it clings to them. Take the MAF off and give it a spray over with electrical contact cleaner too. What is the ISV damper? (forgive my ignorance). Is it the TB damper what yor talking about? As that could cause revs to drop too low. A bit of careful tweeking as its adjustable may raise the revs by a couple of hundred and leave you without worry, or the damper itself may be shot and need replacing.

When you say handbrake trim and leather part, do you mean the top plastic cover and leather handle? If so, I'll take that off your hands posted please mate. Also if not going with the handle itself, how much would you be asking for the passenger lock barrel, retaing clip, and lock mechanism please bud? Thanks, Sean.

Really Jim! :scratch: JB, just remember that the grass isn't always greener! No matter what car you buy of any generation, it'll cost you money. I entirely understand if its your daily, but getting another car of similar age will only result in you throwing money at that too. People whine about how high Corrado parts are, but when it comes to consumables (clutch/pumps/brake disks & pads/service items etc) then its actually quite cheap. Compare that to a newer car, and it'll cost you probably double for each of those items. Same goes for most of the older non VAG cars about that don't share a platform with another. Inevitably people get bored or just loose the enthusiasm of owning a Corrado, I'm not there yet but I'm not immune. There comes a time when everyone has to pass the baton on, and you've owned the car far longer than most JB so for that.........:salute:

Don't have a PN by any chance do you Tony? I'm after one as well! Its ok, got it. Light Beige - 535711463 4YV Platinum (Grey?) - 535711463 9DK Black - 535711463 4FB

Hmmmmm, I bought my yellow tint for the fogs from it before no trouble at all...........

Not sure how often he comes on now. He's gone and bought himself a Lexus, and relegated the Rado to the garage last time I'd heard. He was talking about selling, but not sure if he has. Here you go though. http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=lamin-x&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CDgQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lamin-x.co.uk%2F&ei=Z5D2UcLODsfKhAf_74GYCA&usg=AFQjCNFioyyZ96zlaYxG3TE-DbZfVHBe5A

Payment sent! Thanks mate, Sean.

Hi Dan, I'll take the steering wheel please mate. Can you PM me your details please. Thanks, Sean.

Is there still a group buy on VT mounts? Personally if I was replacing all three, I'd go VT front, and OE rear and gearbox from TPS if you have one local.

No I didn't do it mate. Its basically just the missus filming a lap, and her commenting when I jump on the go pedal on the exit to the second chicane. She'd kill me if I put it on as its a bit rude............... :silent:

Take the time out you need, then come back with renewed enthusiasm when your ready bud! Whereabouts in Bristol are you Baz? My folks live in Oldland Common and I'm up there visiting quite regularly. I can get them to pick up, or I can if it coincides with reference to the parts you will be selling that may appeal mate.

I've got a similar problem although mine starts after 5 or 6 seconds and only when left for around 15 minutes. It fires straight away when cold, and even when warm within the 15 minutes or so from switching off. I'm pretty sure mine is fuel related, and likely to be the FPR being unable to hold pressure in the rail for that time. Could be a similar issue for you mate.

Alright mate, interested in the steering wheel. Is the outer skin still attached to the frame of the wheel around the top? (If you know what I mean - the padding and leather doesn't twist back and forth). If all is ok, how much would you be after posted? Thanks, Sean.

Depends how low you wanna go. For up to about 30mm I'd recommend lowering springs and uprated shocks. This stops the car looking like a scared cat, yet retains comfort. Lowering springs can be had for a good price as well. If you want to go lower, then you'll need coilovers. With everything, you pay for what you get. For twice the price of a good set of springs, you'll get a budget set of coilovers. They'll do what you want, but 9 out of 10 they will be seriously hard and crashy. My advice would be to get a good used set of coilovers, that way you'll get a good set for a decent price, and the better manufacturers have replacement parts if anything should go wrong down the line, and its much cheaper than getting a whole new budget set that could fail in a year or two anyway! Arches would only need work if your going really low or have high or low? offset wheels (I forget which ones which!), so its whatever you decide really. Don't forget to get 4 wheel alignment done after lowering. Often overlooked, but will make a world of difference! Good luck with what you choose.

Bolts are single nyloc so the droplinks are very easy to replace. Bushes are also worth doing, but if you do them after the droplinks theres no need to drop the whole ARB. Aftermarket ARBs are very expensive, and I doubt (although not from experience) you'd notice any difference in most of the driving your likely to do. Do them first, but look at your top mounts too whilst its on the ground. Have a look at the sticky http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=41755 as clunking over speedbumps can be a sign they're worn.

I think he mean't getting them welded over and flattened off, which is a good idea actually unless your set on a roof rack!

The one a Castle Combe sounded a bit tame from what I heard of it on the track. Looked awsome though!

Thats alot of car there! Is that a Nokia Ringo!? I had one of them in 1998! :nuts:

Having owned both early and late, I know they have the same mounting arrangement. As has been mentioned though, the early are more recessed than the late. As david has said as well, early ones are plastic. I can't recall them actually being a different shape though, so other than the retaining cutouts for them being further back on the early type, I'm sure they could be easily adapted.........

I can see both sides of the coin here. I've been thinking a bi-annual track day so we could do different circuits as well as it being more appealing to the Northern/Southern folk. Problem with this is that in a couple of years time (even months once all the enthusiasm has worn off and dark days come), it will end up being an event with half a dozen cars doing it, and those on the commitee would have spent a lot of time and effort organising it for less than half the people you'd get at a regional VW meet. Like I mentioned in the previous post, the annual National Day would be an ideal opportunity to get everyone together for such an event. Being held at a track would also add a little more to the day/experience too!

I bough a set of speedlines for £50 with tyres from an ebay member in Chinnor. Think it was stephens dismantlers? Not sure if its the same guy under a different username but I often see Corrado parts come up from that location at reasonable prices. I did hear that companies with trade type ebay accounts often put their prices up massively when out of stock, so as not to have to end the listing and incur more fees if it auto relists. Maybe, just maybe this is one of those times, as he's clearly delusional to expect those prices!

Yup, as mentioned in your thread I'd be keen. Although a few weeks time may be a bit soon for me. I appreciate its coming toward the end of the decent weather though and summer time will be over before we know it, so time is of the essence. Perhaps an annual Forum AND Club event that could be incorporated into a large meet/show of some kind? A National/Anniversary day with free muggets every year!!!! :grin:

Surprisingly little considering the problems I've/its had/still has. Circa £300 since I bought the car in March.

Haha!