seanl82

I saw a bloke pouring about 3 litres through someone elses TB on a mk4 Golf in the car club a few months back! I just walked away shaking my head! :cuckoo::nono:

I remember seeing a before and after of cylinder bores from a Mazda iirc when I investigated, but it was an online review rather than from Joe Public posting on a forum. The results were very good I must admit, but again without hearing something from someone that has no vested interest in the treatment, I'll reserve judgement on that front.

Always wondered about this after seeing it on wheeler dealers, but I've not seen alot of evidence of the benefits from people actually having it done. Keep us updated as to how it is come emissions time and if there's a noticeable difference then!

Good show old chap! Nice to see the dedication to get it sorted in a week, see you there!

Looks an awsomely clean car that one! You must be very happy!

Its been a productive yet utterly frustrating day! I've been trying to detail the car all week, but due to the great weather I've only really been able to snatch a few hours here and there. Its simply too hot for me to stay out all day, and the bodywork is getting too hot to polish the car effectively with the machine. I decided I'd do the light service I'd planned today as well as I couldn't do much this afternoon, so did plugs, oil, filters, changed the sump gasket and cleaned the pickup etc. Unfortunately this is where I became a little unstuck! I found out that actually I don't have a crank seal/lower chain cover leak after all! It is infact the sump is not securing properly, as the three bolts just inside the bellhousing (as well as two others) have obviously been cross threaded in the past and the threads are shagged!. I've ordered some helicoils to fix it, but thats just the beginning of the problems! The sump is proper battered! Note to all; DONT RUN DI(KHEAD LOWS!, as this is what happens! This is the state of my sump. Its been welded in the past right by the plug. It was a PROPER bodge job, as the weld was sitting proud of where the actual plug sits flush with the washer. This was causing a slight leak, but the fact that a random bolt had been fudged in to try and make it tight, didn't help matters. The sump thread for the plug had also been chewed up, so wasn't sitting tight enough. All of the above culminated in this....... Yes, thats a crack in my pickup!. I don't have the funds to replace everything until the 15th, and as I'm uber busy with work next week, I've had to just fudge it myself until then and hope I can make it to National Day and back before commencing work to rectify all this. I'll put a wanted ad up for sump, and pickup as soon as my rental income clears. I've had to put a nut on the other side of the sump plug to ensure a tight seal, and prey is doesn't work itself loose with vibration over the next 400 or so miles to and from Castle Combe. Anyway, the only thing that went well today was the serpentine belt tensioner pulley bearing. I started hearing a bit of wining on startup only for about 20 seconds last week. Its progressively got worse the more miles I put on the car, and by putting my hand on the tensioner, I could feel the vibration. I ordered a new bearing Monday and it arrived today so fitted that thanks to the guide in the wiki. Took less than an hour, and most of that was trying to cut around the old bearing to get it out! Very easy and cheap fix! As you can see, I smoked lots of tabs today to calm myself after such a debacle with the whole thing! No pics of the detailing, as you can't really see much difference between before unless you catch the light properly, and I was only really doing it to blend my sprayed up parts a little better! Just need to LSP and dress now though. New sump gasket and oil (again), will be ordered soon and a good used sump and pickup will be sought next week. It's obviously been knackered for a while, so a few more miles won't do any more damage hopefully. :shrug:

Corrado on back of trailer shocker!:suprised: :ignore: :lol:

It was about £24 this time last year, although I'm not sure if it was the original or superseded one as I don't know when it was superseded! With regard to the key, how much do VW charge to flash a new immobiliser chip to your ECU as well if anyone knows?

Oooooh, Corrado Porn! lol

This. I was getting quotes around the £640 mark from comparison sites. Went to Classic Line and got it for £215 with absolutely every extra I'd have to pay more for! Only thing with this is that it's a true classic insurance policy so limited mileage is a must. I think the max they go is 5k. As mine is a weekend toy anyway, I chose a 4k max policy as I'm pretty sure I'm not gonna get close to that, and at the price it would be stupid to try and squeeze a bit more from it.

It's worth going to a couple of other places to see what they say mate, but why not just treat the rust and worst affected areas asap, then in a couple of years time you'll have your foot on the property ladder (and a nice garage if all goes well) and save for a respray then. Alternatively, and you can do it slow time at least is buy a compressor, air gun, etc etc and take it off the road for a few months and do it yourself. Ok it won't be bodyshop standard, but it'll look pretty good regardless if you take your time. That's what I'm planning next winter. I can strip the car down then at concentrate on the prep as thats my only real worry. This way, you get the best of both worlds and you'll come out on top in both respects. Win Win!!!

Compomotive awsomeness! God I love those wheels! :notworthy:

That's an excellent kit too mate! I think the 3M polishes and pads are absolutely unbeatable! I'd go easy with the FCP though, its very harsh especially in conjunction with the Green pad, and not easy to work with. Ultrafina on the other hand is an absolute joy to use, and finishes off the best I've come across bar none!

Agreed! Missus was dripping that I wasn't getting the BBQ on, but I couldn't pull myself away from the TV! Well done Andy, excellent win and well deserved! :cheers:

I saw a Delorean on the way into work at half 7 this morning passing through Fareham! Also saw a Tesla last weekend on the M5 near Swindon. First time I've seen one of them! parked on my Mum's road in Bristol and is there quite often apparently, was a McClaren MP4-12C with a Union Jack Wrap. Not my kinda thing tbh, but the car was awsome! Seen tons of old Austins about around the Bristol/Bath area as well. Its funny, all these rare cars around now the weather is fit for it, yet I'm still to see another Corrado in probably 9 or 10 months!

Its painted over the top of stonechip. Problem is that the stonechip being so soft, the paint chips off very easily.

I'm not certain where it takes its feed from, but if the starter motor is going direct to the battery it will run constant. The ignition on position 3 gives it the 12v feed to start turning the obviously springs back to position 2 to cut the feed to starter motor only. You need to relocate some of the wiring from ignition to starter motor rather than direct from battery. I'm sure someone knows exactly where from but I'm not with the car atm or I'd have a gander for you mate.

I didn't mean to sound disrespectful, apologies if it came across like that Clumpy. Maybe I'm being naive, but I'd expect change from 7.5k from a Full restoration respray, wet sand, correction detail, and aftercare package from someone like KDS who are known for utter perfection is all. Have a look at their price lists, obviously its just a general guide, but that is achievable for the price I think

Did you get that done? That's utter madness mate, and probably the most expensive respray of any car I've heard of! I think 5k was the most I'd heard previously and that was for a concourse Split Screen Camper, which although still quite small as vans go nowadays is still a lot bigger and more involved than a Corrado!

Jims budget is actually quite good for the work he originally said. Lots of people believe it can be done sub 1k, and yes there are places that can accommodate that, but as we all know, you get what you pay for! 2k for a full respray is a realistic figure and will get you a job to a very high standard. 3k would get a concourse job though!

Is that Dans missus's old car? If so, you have most of my old valvers interior!

I'd suggest doing the lot Jim. For a full windows out respray, if you get to their parking area and remove bumpers and doors etc for them, I think 2k will get you a very thorough job including sorting your rust issues. It takes time and effort to blend new paint, so what little you dont need doing will cost almost as much as the whole car mate. Obviously speak to a few different places first, but be prepared to travel on recommendations as a good bodyshop is worth the initial ballache. You'll get a feel for the place and staff when you visit. If it looks very professional and they take the time to talk you through the process, and throw book fulls of photos at you of previous work, it can only be a good thing.

Thats about the sum of it yeah! :lol:

Valeo is the OEM one. When I got the replacement for the VR a couple of months ago from GSF (this time I tried it with the dash out btw), it was a BEHR/Hella Matrix. They list two types, a cheap and a Premium one. The Hella one was the Premium one.

Its not that bad tbh, Did it on the old valver. Certainly easier than removing the whole dash. Its a tight fit so there is more chance of breaking something, especially the heater ducts as its a tw@t to remove the clips at the back! That guide although isn't comprehensive, covers everything really. You'll see what you need to do as you go along mate. Just set aside a good few hours to do it if you've never done it before.