seanl82

Car wouldn't start this morning. Pretty sure it's the ignition switch as it's been a bit temperamental, but I've got round it by lifting it slightly when turning. It was an aftermarket one from heritage I replaced about 500 mile ago too. Ordered a genuine one and picking up tomorrow. I also bought a replacement inlet mani yesterday too. Mine had previously been smoothed so I wanted to get one with the texture as original. It's been soda blasted too so should look nice! EBay bargains, gotta love em!

Haha, go ahead, it's quite lengthy though! Yes they are 7.5" Et35 all round mate

No arch rubbing what so ever. I could maybe get away with an extra 5mm spacing on the back to bring it out a little bit more, but I don't want to risk it. Mine are 17x7.5 too. I run 205/40/17 tyres like you're getting so a very small amount of stretch. Have a look on my gallery toward the second half of it if you want to look at how it sits, I'm lowered about 30mm all round, but I had Weitec coilovers on until recently which were about 40mm all round with no issues again. Oh and LMs, drool! Possibly my favourite wheel period! They offer them for quite a few different makes so there are quite varied centre bores, depends what they've come off I suppose or where you've ordered them if new.

The KR engine is in common on the mk2 Golf GTI 16v too, so you may be able to use a manual for that mate.

You need to access it from underneath and it right at the bottom of the system, so you'll need to drain the coolant. You need to move the pas pump out of the way to access it too. It's on a geared bolt which tensions the aux belt, and the state is behind a plastic cover. It should all become clear once you're under there mate.

Indeed James! :thumbleft:

Thermostat mate. It'll be stuck open so the heaters will get warm whilst you're stationary, the go cold when travelling. It a pain in the arris to do on a 1.8 16v too! Not expensive and not particularly difficult, just time consuming and a little awkward.

I'd say go with 10mm spacers as a minimum, 15 to get a good stance l. Bear in mind standard are et43, so you'll be 5mm further in and have the addition of a further inch due to wheel width. Et35 is spot on for a 7.5" wheel which is what I have mate.

Its possible to re-tumble them yes. Have a look in the wiki section, pretty sure theres a guide there. You'll need new wafers though and VW charge a hefty price but you get tons of them. If you look in the sale section, there was a guy recently selling some. Best bet is to remove your drivers side lock to see which ones you currently have and what order they're in. They are numbered so you'll know which ones and how many you'll need. Be careful though as they fling out on springs as soon as you remove the key from the lock. Edit: Doh! Thought this was a new thread, should have looked above!

It's entirely up to you. It doesn't offer a huge amount of sound deadening which is its intended purpose, but obviously looks pretty unsightly, and worst case if an oil soaked large bit drops onto the downpipe, has the potential to cause a fire.

Have a look in suppliers forum, sprinter53 offers a good oe look replacement. The original ones are no longer available. To remove yours, cover the engine bay with an old blanket, and using an old bingo card or similar, scrape it all off. You'll be left with the glue, which will take literally hours to remove. Many have tried different types of product, I used petrol which worked as well as anything. Obviously be careful with the amount you use if you do.

Ah not what I was thinking about then. Cheers!

Is this the throttle body damper you're talking about?

Its the dim-dip resistor for your headlights. Should be disconnected if you have an uprated headlight loom?

Nice one Ian, seems they're all starting to come out to play now the weather is starting to get better!

If you move images to a different folder within the image hosting site, the link no longer works. May account for some of the missing pics.....

Cheaper to hire a flat bed yourself and do it. Only restrictions are mileage allowances but will still probably be half that. Just need to take fuel cost into account.

Nice to see it back on the road Daren, always nice to take it to work occasionally when the weather is good. Looking good!

I do like that beige/black mix up, looks great! :thumbleft:

I agree Jim, its a very complicated procedure every time you disconnect the battery, and considering the amount of DIY work guides that was included in the owners manual, this would have surely been mentioned if it was required. A good drive will see the ECU re-learn all values I've no doubt.

Haha, I do exactly the same Rob! I've fitted a mk3 Golf motor and it's working well. I've also dismantled two to see what the brushes are like and there was plenty of meat left on them, although I don't doubt they were past their best. I got quite intimate with the mechanism too, and took it to pieces to replace one of the locking sections as it was raising when sliding forward on the passenger side. Lots of work for something I never really use but it's an additional worry I longer have to deal with.

Cheers Chris, long way around to find what was a simple fix, but I couldn't see it properly from either above or below, as I thought it may be the bottom rad hose. Crack pipe plug was easier to identify though and all is good now. :thumbleft:

Following on from the post on the previous page, I sorted my windows and mirrors today. Went the long way around, but it turned out to be a simple fuse! Fuse 14, which is for the interior lamps as it happens. No idea why it stopped them both working but obviously better than something to serious. Tested all the electrics and noticed the heated seats weren't working either. No click from the relays, so I pulled the rear card off, and tested voltage at the socket there. All good, so put the relays back in and they worked again. I like simple fixes like this! Drained the coolant and fitted the new water pipe plug, and I'm now leak free. I've got another week off in 2 weeks time, so I'll be giving it a good detail in preparation for the show season!

Bit of bonnet foam envy for you here! (2nd pic shows it best). This is the repro stuff from Sprinter53. Very well recommended! :thumbleft: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?79984-Seanl82-s-uuuuumm-Storm&p=1102894&viewfull=1#post1102894

Worth having a go at cleaning it certainly. I managed a thorough clean using apc and an interior cleaning brush, but a soft bristle shoe Polish brush is exactly the same. Dilute the apc 50:50, dip the brush and flick off all the excess. This will leave the brush feeling a little dry, but anymore and it'll break down the glue. Wipe it over with a microfiber to remove any more moisture and dirt and it'll come out great! Definitely don't glue new material to the existing one though. You'll need foam backed stuff to stop the glue leaking through so it'll be too thick. Just peel the old stuff off, use a scraper to get as much of the old foam and glue off as possible, and re-cover if you go that route.