seanl82

Nice to see it back on the road Daren, always nice to take it to work occasionally when the weather is good. Looking good!

I do like that beige/black mix up, looks great! :thumbleft:

I agree Jim, its a very complicated procedure every time you disconnect the battery, and considering the amount of DIY work guides that was included in the owners manual, this would have surely been mentioned if it was required. A good drive will see the ECU re-learn all values I've no doubt.

Haha, I do exactly the same Rob! I've fitted a mk3 Golf motor and it's working well. I've also dismantled two to see what the brushes are like and there was plenty of meat left on them, although I don't doubt they were past their best. I got quite intimate with the mechanism too, and took it to pieces to replace one of the locking sections as it was raising when sliding forward on the passenger side. Lots of work for something I never really use but it's an additional worry I longer have to deal with.

Cheers Chris, long way around to find what was a simple fix, but I couldn't see it properly from either above or below, as I thought it may be the bottom rad hose. Crack pipe plug was easier to identify though and all is good now. :thumbleft:

Following on from the post on the previous page, I sorted my windows and mirrors today. Went the long way around, but it turned out to be a simple fuse! Fuse 14, which is for the interior lamps as it happens. No idea why it stopped them both working but obviously better than something to serious. Tested all the electrics and noticed the heated seats weren't working either. No click from the relays, so I pulled the rear card off, and tested voltage at the socket there. All good, so put the relays back in and they worked again. I like simple fixes like this! Drained the coolant and fitted the new water pipe plug, and I'm now leak free. I've got another week off in 2 weeks time, so I'll be giving it a good detail in preparation for the show season!

Bit of bonnet foam envy for you here! (2nd pic shows it best). This is the repro stuff from Sprinter53. Very well recommended! :thumbleft: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?79984-Seanl82-s-uuuuumm-Storm&p=1102894&viewfull=1#post1102894

Worth having a go at cleaning it certainly. I managed a thorough clean using apc and an interior cleaning brush, but a soft bristle shoe Polish brush is exactly the same. Dilute the apc 50:50, dip the brush and flick off all the excess. This will leave the brush feeling a little dry, but anymore and it'll break down the glue. Wipe it over with a microfiber to remove any more moisture and dirt and it'll come out great! Definitely don't glue new material to the existing one though. You'll need foam backed stuff to stop the glue leaking through so it'll be too thick. Just peel the old stuff off, use a scraper to get as much of the old foam and glue off as possible, and re-cover if you go that route.

Thanks Rob, Its only about £12 including the bushes from VW. Get one bought! :thumbleft:

Picked up the couple of small bits from VW today. New crack pipe plug with seal, and rear bias Vv spring and bushes. As mentioned previously, I'm accumulating parts in preparation for the underside next winter (been saying I'll do it for about 2 years now!), and the bias valve spring are one of those obscure parts that are likely to become obsolete before long, so thought it prudent to get it whilst I still can and its pretty cheap as well. I also received the van lining fabric and glue today for my parcel shelf. Et voila! Colour is obviously pretty off, but it was only £15.99 delivered including the glue so I thought I'd give it a try and I'm glad I did. If you have been searching for what to use to re-cover the parcel shelf, read on. Being beige, they're very hard to come by second hand and they have been discontinued from VW. The only real option I had was to buy a second hand shelf in grey (as they're the cheapest), and re-cover it. The van lining fabric is absolutely perfect for anyone thinking of doing this. Its 4 way stretch stuff so flexible enough to mould into the corners without bunching up and causing lumps. The pile is a little more fluffy, but thats likely to do with the fact the original is 21 years old now. If you can find a supplier relatively local, I'd suggest either going into a supplier with your shelf, or cutting off a bit from the rear bit closest the seats where it overlaps, and seeing if you can get as close a match as possible. Another option is to send the cut-off to various places by post to see if they have something close enough you'd be happy with. This is what I'll be doing next as the experiment was successful. You'll need 1.1 x 0.7 metres of fabric, but most come off a roll that is usually 2M wide and you buy by the metre, so one is more than enough. Anyway, thats one thing temporarily out of the way, tomorrow will see me fit the new coolant drain plug, and one which seems to be very common at the moment in that my windows and mirrors have decided to stop working. They are linked, as the passenger side window sw isn't working either, all the connectors behind the door card are in place (I had the door card off the other day and it definitely worked before), and changing the window control unit for a spare I have didn't make any difference. I suspect it may be to do with the loom either at the door jam, or the connector at the fuse box if both the windows and mirrors are on the same loom, but I'll check the Bentley wiring diagrams later. Will report back with what I find! :salute:

Upload the pics to an image hosting site like photobucket or Flickr, then copy the link url onto the forum page mate. Oh and welcome by the way! Look forward to seeing the pictures. :thumbleft:

That was quick! :thumbleft:

Have a look on the link mate, you'll be able to cross reference the part numbers to see if they're the same for a VR & 16v. Alternatively, just give your local dealership a bell and they'll be able to tell you based on your reg. http://www.partsbase.org/vw/corrado-cor-eu/

Go for genuine fronts which are still available from the dealer, and Lemforder for the rear as these are obsolete. Don't bother with "uprated" ones, they'll be a complete waste of time and money.

Is the passenger side switch not working either when neither of them work? Just to rule out the mechanisms at least. There is a guide in the wiki iirc of how to disassemble the switch and clean the contacts which may help if its that mate. Other options are a break in the cable at the door jam. When its not working, open the door and try again. Worth a go at least!

Yeah use a 6 sided deep socket if you can.

Looks bob on that mate! :thumbleft:

:lol:

Daren, I was going to say relive our Youth by pretending to be Gary Lineker. Then thought of you and thought more like Bobby Moore.......... :silent: :lol:

Really looking forward to this, should be an absolutely cracking weekend! Hopefully the weather is good all weekend, and I can picture BBQ, beers, and the kids all running round playing games whilst us oldies try to get involved and pretend to relive our youth! :lol:

Thats Ok mate, just wondered if we needed to officially book. It'll be me, the missus and 2 kids camping on the Saturday night. I'll be Glamping at a B&B on the Friday I think! lol.

Thanks Sean! Had a few more hours on the car today and I've concluded it's definitely the expansion tank causing the low level light to flash. I ran the car up to temp with a spare set of clocks, which produced exactly the same problem. Wish my mileage was this low really! Anyway, as with the original clocks, if you turn off the ignition then restart the car, the warning won't come back. I had to let the engine cool a fair bit for each process, as it only happens when the water is at 90, and oil is mid 80s. If the light is flashing, it won't reset itself even when the plug is bridged. If I run it up from cool with it bridged though, it doesn't come on. When the bridge is removed it takes about 20 seconds or so before the light starts flashing again. I'll have a bit more time on it next week so I'll check the continuity and resistance of the sender pins inside to see if they differ from the original, and see if it's possible to get some sort of proper fix. I've ordered some beige van lining carpet to re-cover the parcel shelf too. Hopefully the colour is OK, or I'll have to try and re-colour it too. Getting there slowly!

Me too, have a look in suppliers forum as they do forum discount. Only thing I've found it that the battery neg cable is about 2" too short, but that's solely due to where I've routed it. It's all soldered joints too, and as an weapons engineer I can't fault the quality. I'd definitely recommend them!

The plug is under the back seat, and passes through a grommet. The sensor may be a bit of a pig to get out. I'd suggest removing the disk so you'll need a new split pin. You should be able to bang the old one out, the clean up the seat in the stub axle before popping the new one in. Pretty easy, just a little time consuming.

Do we have any details on camping yet Phil?