seanl82

Sounds about right. Tell her to check for any leaks, and see what the level is at first, just in case it's anything more serious.

It is certainly loud enough, and coupled with the flashing light you'd certainly know about it!

I've heard they all streak when wet though? I've never tried any of them, so can't say from experience but I'm regurgitating what I've read about it in the past. I did my plastics with carpro dlux yesterday. Really wish I had some before pics but the result is incredible! It's not cheap, but will last a long long time!

Just seen the ad, new series starts 9th May.

Not sure if it would make any difference to your problem, but that pressure is much too low. With running 17", you need to go a couple of psi above standard. I always inflate to 35 psi personally, as you obviously have much shallower side wall which could lead to large bumps/potholes impacting the rim or slicing through the tyre if it compresses too much.

I wouldn't go for the mega cheap ones on ebay tbh, but pretty sure they're extortionate from VW. Get decent branded ones from GSF or ECP. GSF discount code posted this morning for 49% off too.

Thats for the lambda on the rear engine mount bracket. Its a possibility for sure. The two plugs behind the gear lever are your OBD1 sockets. You can get an adapter off of ebay for literally a couple of quid to convert to obd2, so fault codes can be read. Its a little basic being OBD1, but will still make life a lot easier.

Exactly this! :thumbleft: I've obviously spent an age doing the same thing in the past, so its dead simple once you prepare for it and have a bit of cotton/string handy. The seats can be had in and out in 10 minutes, a couple of bolts to undo the seatbelts for the rear cards (and new clips help as mentioned). Front door cards are easy once you've done them before, its just finding what has to be removed and how first. (Door pin and surround, door pull surround - slide forward, 3 outer screws - stubby screwdriver for the one closest the dash, pull off grab handle cover, 2 screws for the grab handle, and the hidden screw behind it. Lift away gently, and disconnect speaker wires and window switch. Job done!).

Mega easy to fit so you should have them all replaced in about 30 mins!

It's the right connector, I checked mine to be sure but just checking I got what you meant correctly. Pm me your address and I'll get it posted tomorrow if you like mate. Cheers.

This what you need? Pm me if it's what you need, and it's yours for the cost of P&P mate.

There may be, however it's the bowden cables that generally cause the initial problem, and the gears are just one of quite a few weak parts that fail. Replacing the gears will likely just lead to a different part failing, and the plastic chassis that the clips fold onto are also very weak and could render the whole thing junk. That's obviously other people's call though, so worth seeing if it's viable imo.

Haha, the worst thing is, I work on a bloody warship!

They do look very nice indeed! MJ has a fantastic reputation for their quality too. :thumbleft:

Try being in my job! I've got more memory on the stick at the back of the kitchen drawer I won in a raffle 10 years ago than the system I maintain at work!

Welcome to the forum! Have a look in the wiki section mate, there's a good buying guide in there under general. Be prepared to travel too, not too many about now. Finally, buy on condition not necessarily mileage. Bodywork is far more expensive than mechanicals. Good luck with your search!

I've got a load of pigtails with connectors, so I'll have a look tomorrow to see if I have the mirror switch one mate.

Its definitely worth it Daren. I only have a cheap rotary (Silverline) which was about £50, but factor in polishes, pads etc it can get out of control! A DA is much safer but takes a little longer and doesn't give the level of finish as a rotary. That said, a rotary is perfectly safe as long as you exercise a bit of caution. There are some very in depth write ups on both on detailing world, so I'd give that a look if you're thinking about it mate. Its back breaking work though! Once the initial outlay is out of the way, its not expensive as instead of using glazes all the time to "fill" swirls and scratches, you can cut them back so a good wax will offer enough filling to mask whats left.

I can't be arsed any more James! Feel like just paying a professional to do it!

It is mate. I enjoyed this sort of thing at one stage. I think I'm getting too old for it now though, my back is killing me!

I did a couple of areas a while back Kip, and provided the colour match on the paint is good and the areas are relatively small, it'll come up far better than you could imagine with a rattle can! Just be gentle with the wet sanding as the factory paint is obviously much thinner than than that applied by yourself. A good cutting compound then finishing polish will leave it looking brilliant! http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?79984-Seanl82-s-uuuuumm-Storm&p=979771&viewfull=1#post979771

Yeah, but its a cool thing!

Prepped the car yesterday ready for a quick pass with the rotary today. All went well and after a quick rinse and dry first thing this morning I cracked on. Didn't need much as there were only a few very slight swirls from washing, but wanted to do it since the respray anyway. 3M Ultrafina on a 3M blue pad and the paint was looking back to its best again. Went over it twice with panel wipe to remove the polishing oils, a quick rinse and dry again then onto the Carpro CquartzUk which I've had a while. I've used Gtechniq C1 in the past and thought it was fantastic. This ones a little cheaper and pretty much the same thing hence the reason for trying it this time. Unfortunately I came into a bit of a problem. I don't know whether it was because of the heat or I applied it a little too thick, but it just wouldn't buff off. It seemed a little sticky and now just looks hazy, and reading up online suggests quite a few have encountered this. Carpro suggest a wipe over with the reload which is supposed to be applied an hour afterward (and is included in the kit), so tried this to no avail. The next step is to give it a wipe over with a finishing polish just back and forth, to remove a top layer and buff again. Hopefully it won't have hardened too much by tomorrow because I only finished about an hour ago and I'm absolutely shattered! If is has hardened too much, the only way to get it off is to polish it off again, and I really don't want to have to do that. If it doesn't work, I'll just get use the collinite that I've been using for the past couple of years. Should have just stayed with the tried, trusted and go to wax! I'll use the Dlux for the plastic tomorrow as I've used it before and its good stuff.

Gtechniq C4 or Carpro Dlux. Gives a matt finish and restores plastics to how they'd look 'as new' rather than dressed. Best thing about them is they're semi-permanent, so will last 18 months to 2 years before you need to re-apply. Doing mine again tomorrow after 18 months since the last time.

Jim, PurpleTom was selling a very good condition used one recently, worth having a look in the sale section to see if he still has it mate.