seanl82

Definitely worth the effort mate, looks great!

Attempted to fit the soda blasted inlet manifold this morning, only to be defeated by a rounded hex bolt so couldn't get the old one off. I'll have to remove the slam panel to drill it out at some point, but couldn't be bothered today. Put it all back together and gave it an apc wash then Tfr in preparation for a quick going over with the rotary polisher tomorrow. Hopefully it doesn't rain on Thursday as I'll be applying the carpro cquartz to the bodywork, and dlux to the plastics. Interior was done yesterday - hoovered, carpets cleaned with apc, leather cleaned and fed with furniture clinic stuff, and trim dressed with poorboys natural look trim dressing. Looks great in there, hopefully the outside looks nice after I've finished too. Engine bay is starting to look a little grubby again, but it has been almost 2 years since I did it and I've had to use it in all weathers the last few months.

Doh!:bonk:

We don't have auto belts over here in Europe. Have a look on corrado club of Canada, some very helpful guides on there mate.

Still available from VW this time last year, not cheap though - £40.72 for the pair! I'm sure I saw aftermarket equivalents on ebay for about 1/3 of the price though. Definitely worth a look on there.

Can anyone confirm what the orange sticker on the lead guide next to the oil filler cap is, and was it standard on UK cars? I believe it's regarding not over filling with oil to avoid damage to the cat, but looking at Google images the vast majority are on LHD cars. Obviously the left hookers are far more common than those of ours that drive on the proper side, but just to confirm if it should have been on it originally? Thanks!

Use kunifer instead. Much stronger than copper and won't corrode like steel.

Yes but check what you have fitted already. The spring plates fitted as standard to the vr6 were changed mid way through the production run. Im sure it's only early ones that are wrong so require the newer top plates - which are the part numbers you've mentioned.

You don't need to cut down the rear bump stops, some just do. I haven't though. Read the instructions and look at the diagram of the front top cap. If you have the '+' ones you won't need new top plates. It's only early VR6s which need new ones iirc. Again, you don't have to get top mounts and new bolts, but it would be daft not to. You could also re-use your old bump stops. It's not Bilsteins fault, perhaps just a lack of research prior to getting them.......

If the stat fails, it tends to fail in the open position so it'll over cool. The way to test is to let the car warm up from idle, and keep checking the bottom rad Hose. At around 87 degrees the stat should open, and the bottom Hose will get hot. I'm not 100% on the valver fans. Have a look at the definitive cooling guide in engine bay section, and it'll tell you how to test them somewhere along the way. Only other thing could be the rad partially blocked I suppose. Keep an eye on your oil temp though, it'll give you more of an idea if there is actually a problem or if it's a bit of an electrical problem.

Is that water (on the dash gauge) or oil (on the mfa)? If it water, yes that is high. I'd certainly look into why, and check your fans are working correctly, then change out the thermostat and water pump as a start, and go from there. If it's oil temp, it's a little high, but I wouldn't be too worried about it. The same applies with the fixes for the water system to get oil temp a little more under control. Usually around this time of year in mixed traffic and normal driving, in a 16v you should be seeing oil at between 90-110. Only worry if it's creeping north of 120 regularly though

No worries mate. Just re-read your first post and you did mention it was above the front mount, not the battery neg which I went on a bit of a tangent from and probably confused you a bit. Soz, my bad! :bonk:

Yeah the cable forms part of the sensor, and plugs into the loom around the front engine mount. There is a plastic lead removal tool as standard which attaches to the bonnet prop, but it's pretty rubbish to be honest. Metal ones are available on ebay pretty cheap and are far better.

Ah I see. Yeah I'm pretty sure if there is no reading from crank sensor the Ecu cuts power to the coil/dizzy, so you won't get a spark. Have a look where the crank sensor bolts to the block. The cable is at 90 degrees and is a weak point, so it's common for them to break there.

It'll still turn over if the crank sensor is at fault, but won't start. Are you positive the battery is good? Maybe worth a try jumping it to see what happens, or using a jump cable from neg battery terminal directly to the engine block or a chassis point to rule out the earth cable then.

The clicking is usually a result of a dead battery, but seeing as you sorted it a while back by playing with the earth, I'd say it may well be that at fault. Remove the battery and trace the earth cable to the securing point just to the left of where the battery sit (left as you're looking at it). Remove the nut, insect and clean the ring connector, clean up the thread and re-assemble. If no joy clean up the other earth points in the bay - rear rocker cover, gearbox bellhousing, starter motor. Reassemble with a bit of copper or silicon Grease and you should be good for a while.

Thats not too bad actually. Think I'll try that test tomorrow to see what happens. I've never done anything like that before so worth trying it out, even if just for peace of mind. Thanks for the heads up, could well come in handy for others too! :thumbleft:

Glad to hear you've got to the bottom of it! Do you know where Vince sources the oil pumps from? There seem to have been a few cases where it has caused different running issues over the last 2 years, so its something I'd be quite tempted to replace myself. I'd imagine they cost the GDP of a medium sized South American Country from VW though!

Haha, I love it when other people leave their phone laying around! :lol: :thumbleft:

Sorry you're right. Just saw your last post too. Have a look on that site, you may have to look a fair around a bit between brakes, rear axle, Electrics - ABS system, body - boot floor etc........ Sometimes takes a while to find!

http://www.partsbase.org/vw/corrado-cor-eu-1992-106-rear-axle-beam-with-attachment-parts/

The seal for the bearings should come with the kit. Have a look on Partsbase (Google it) to see an exploded diagram, but there is a metal cover also, which is what I thought you were referring to and mentioned earlier.

His missus probably topped it up with water thinking it was the screen wash reservoir! :lol:

VW heritage sell the rear splash Shields iirc, and not sure if they differ from those fitted to the VR6, but they sell the covers you mention too, although the definitely don't fit the VR6. Not sure if the G60 has different size rear disks is why I can't be more definitive.

Worth asking on clubgti, quite a few who have modified the abf on there, and some very knowledgeable folk. Not sure it'd be perfect without proper setup though. A specialist tuner would be the best route I'd imagine.