seanl82

Sold within the hour! Regardless of bodywork, thats an absolute steal!!!!!!!

What you thinking for the new daily Michael? Shame to let it go, but having two is just greedy anyway! :lol:

I find BMW cabins very bland indeed. We have a 118d M-Sport, and although it has a bit of silver trim, its very plastic fantastic. Its really well put together, but I just think they've been exactly the same for about 15 years now.

John, I'm having similar problems. I've got code 00533 09-00 adaptation limit surpassed from cold, but when I clear it when the car is warm, I get 10-00 not reached. I've tried 3 ISVs including the original and brand new (although £30 ebay jobby) with exact same symptoms. My car sometimes struggles to idle above 550rpm and seems as if it about to cut out, but other times it'll be idling at up to 1500 rpm. It goes up and down. When warm it idles around 1050 rpm and fluctuates a little. In addition to the ISV, I've checked all hoses and all were good, I connected a spare blue temp sensor, although VCDS shows the one fitted is rising as it should. My car was left in the garage for 10 months and was fine when left, but has been like this since. If I find the snag before you do I'll post it on here. I won't start another thread as this is very close to the problem I'm encountering. If you weren't aware, idle when warm should be 650-750 rpm.

Looks great Rob! You'll need some thinners or some sort of tar remover on the fuel tank, then a plastic dressing to get it back to the factory look. I do now have rear beam envy too! lol

Depends how confident you are with aftermarket parts Michael. When I had my mk3 GTI (AGG engine but essentially the same) I did the cambelt, and just bought a kit from ECP. It was a Contitech one iirc, and came with the tensioner and was pretty cheap. Definitely change the tensioner at the same time as the belt though.

Hi, interested in the MAF if its the 4 pin one and still available? Could you PM me a price posted if so please. Thanks, Sean.

I don't think Halfords supply Bosch ones anymore. I got a Yuasa one last time I had to change one there. 5 year guarantee so should last a while at least. I'd always use that guarantee and get a new one if it failed before time. Well over £100 each time is better in my pocket than these major companies who do well out of those that bin the receipt or do as you're doing and not bother. Its your choice and I'm not judging don't get me wrong! I'd just use the guarantee if I could.

Are they New? My bilstein set which uses eibach springs states in the instructions that later top plates must be used, and lists the OE VAG part number.

I've tried unsuccessfully three times to confirm if my car is a genuine storm or not. Keep getting the same reply in that since the records were digitised, they only go back as far as the year 2k. Others have managed it though so think it depends if you speak to someone from VWHQ who can be arsed to look into it properly. VIN numbers weren't sequential unfortunately, apparently registration for genuine ones was from April 95 onwards. Mine was registered Feb 95 and was originally registeted to the supplying dealer, so pretty sure it was badged by them and used as a display model.

Have a look in the suppliers forum, Rog Chatfield is producing stickers which are perfect unless you want to fork out £100 for a second hand one!

It does connect to the main ecu but pretty sure it's for diagnostic information only. Don't think the main ecu has any control what so ever over the system.

Is a shame Rob. Are you going to any of the shows this year?

A couple of weeks early for me this time, I'll be down the weekend of the 19th.

Thanks chaps, ordered. As said for the price and a 2 year guarantee, has to be worth a punt. My vcds codes for isv & maf have come back, and idle is all over the place although not cutting out yet, so fingers crossed this sorts it.

Red Bourbon from the Forum!...........................

I'm in need of a replacement ISV, trouble is I don't fancy paying £200 odd quid from VW, and I don't want to get a second hand one for fear of it going within a couple of months too. There are quite a few on ebay around the £30 mark, and I know you get what you pay for but they have a 2 year guarantee/warranty so was wondering if anyone had actually bought one and tried it? Is it worth a punt? Thanks all!

I signed one of these a couple of years ago, made it to parliament for debate and lasted about 30 seconds before it was thrown out. Worth doing again and again but dont hold out much hope of it ever being passed.

He's usually completely full doing the power runs, so doubt you'd be able to get a remap done on the day. Its a Sunday generally too so doubt he'd want to stay later to do it tbh mate.

No need to remove the beam, but its likely you'll have to grind it off as the securing bolts are hex type, and due to dis-similar metals they just fuse together and you'll never get them out! Its not too difficult a job though, just a bit of a pain in the arris!

Feel for you mate, thats devastating, especially so soon after getting the car. I'd heard G-Works workmanship went a little downhill just before they shut up shop, but you'd never be able to anticipate it happening like that. Well done on getting a replacement so quickly though, an added expense I'm sure you could have done without though. Onwards and upwards mate, it'll be a cracking car and at least you'll have the peace of mind its solid. John at JMR comes highly recommended for charger rebuilds/upgrades if you want to increase power in the future though!

Only difference is between early and late cars I believe. They look physically different though. Here is the cheapest I've found, and its an ATE unit too. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221088124536?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Mine is exactly the same Rob! I cut a tiny bit out of the passenger side after I'd fitted the drivers side and that happened, so at least one sits flush. I dare not try to do the same with the other though in case I bend it when trying to remove it!

I have a used one that came off my car before I put the new ones on when I had it resprayed. Its a little bowed but its consistent, so no sharp bends where the metal has distorted. Pretty confident it would seat nicely and I can get pics if anyone is interested?

The leading edge of the sills where it meets the front wing will absolutely need to be cut out. The rest doesn't look too bad though, you may be able to get away with grinding it back a bit as it looks mostly on the surface, then putting a bit of paint on before underseal mate. I've seen far worse so wouldn't stress too much. Worth getting it done sooner rather than later though as especially if you're using it in this weather, the water will get in between the exposed metal and the current underseal and spread like wild fire.