Jim Bowen

The nut is a captive one by the way. Won't spin as its part of the axle. If you have an eletric wrench you can try spinning the bolt while levering it outwards with a screwdriver. Definitely helps taking the weight of it. Disconnect both rear shocks at the top and you can jiggle it while trying the bolt.

I couldn't see the arrows on mine either. I wondered if they meant you should mark them if taking them off and back on again. Can't remember the lower tensioner bit. But seem to recall maybe pushing something with a screwdriver then squeezing it. Might of been something else though. It's all a blur.

I heard about the not to be reused thing after I had reused mine. I just used thread lock on them. Have done about 20,000miles and not had a flywheel through the bonnet yet.

Had it setup today. Couldn't go to stealth racing in the end so found a small garage locally that seemed knowledgeable and more enthusiastic than others. Quite happy at the moment. It's still a bit bumpy but drives nice and straight and don't feel like I'm constantly correcting it. Been out in a few cars and vans and land rovers this week and decided the corrado is still better to drive than those. Was quite surprised at how much the land rover felt the bumps and steering wasn't great. Definitely the state of the roads. Corrado felt quite decent when I got back in it. Not sure if I should buy a land rover or not. Been looking hard for a decent 300tdi discovery. Have got two new koni rear shocks sat around now. Can't say the difference between them and the sachs was very noticeable. Garage still thought it was too firm on the rear.

It does on mine.

My handbrake does that, i have to unplug the bit on top of the brake fluid reservoir under the bonnet, never understand why, but its been unplugged for 8yrs and 90,000miles

Is it weird that I bought extra and used them in the spare holes?

Look out for golf drivers. They seem to get excited. Nearly had one crash into the back of me. I swear he was watching the spoiler

Are the cables ok? Is one for each side and they don't have anything to do with the bias valve. Think there is adjustment under the hand brake trim. I renewed both of mine when doing the mk4 brakes and not had any problems for years now. Think I need new pad soon though

Latest code. 1 Fault Found: 00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 10-00 - Adaptation Limit Not Reached Readiness: N/A Have tried a different ISV, MAF and inlet elbow+the pcv stuff. Can't find any wiring damage anywhere. Was playing with vagcom, noticed throttle angle was 12.1, thought i'd read it should be minimum 14degrees. Wedged the throttle open and it idled quite high, was already 800rpm. Seems ok when warm, its just cold, its won't turn over without foot on throttle and its quite lumpy for a few minutes. Could it be related to coilpack?

They look like a borbet wheel

If its dripping onto your shoes as you hold it then you've gone too far.

Also the ABT alloys do give the corrado a nice look, they suit it well. Also not too common

I quite like the compomotive TH2's, am sure someone has some on here, a motorsport look though, but classic imo

I was going to get old style stuff. I figured the top bits aren't too hard to change and the original stuff lasted nearly 200k

I use a k&n recharge kit. Go easy on the oil though. I also use a long tap so I can wash it from the inside out with the tap poking into the centre of filter.

I once started to blame my mk4 bolt and tensioner for the noise, couldn't think of anything else. Have been considering going back to original stuff. In fact i've found most of the mods i've done end up getting swapped back to original stuff. The bolt looked quite a bit different to the original iirc

Will try the pulse on the other one, i did do it on the previous isv, it did seem to work, got a clunk noise and could feel it move.

Did vagcom again tonight and the isv came up again. Said intermittent this time. Unless I didn't notice that before. Checked wiring and can't find anything wrong. Checked the multiplug and seemed good. Did I just check the plug on the isv with a multi meter while the engine is running.

Didn't think to check that. Cheers. Will put it on my list for when I get home tomorrow.

Fitted the spare isv and hasn't made any difference. Will get vagcom out again tomorrow night. Ran out of time this evening.

Now got vagcom, am outside with car now. Got the fault: Idling Speed Stabilization Valve (N71) 31-00 - Open or Short to Ground. Wiring looks ok, isn't very much of it tbh, from the valve to the multiplug big circle connector of engine loom to car loom Could it be a dead valve? About to find the spare.

I think only actually make two sizes of filter. Small and large. I might be wrong on that though.

Cleaned the isv, have removed and bypassed the black isv damper box thing, made no difference. Had a lot of pipes off and checked for leaks but can't find any, replaced the inlet elbow and the pcv, still the same. Runs lovely when warm, idea is much more steady than before but high, about 900rpm. Fixed the leaky exhaust as well. I wondered if it was to do with the battery, tried jump leads from another car and still had the same problem, just won't hold idle. Also feels abit lurchy when cruising at a steady revs' Could it be throttle position sensor? (am hoping its not head gasket again) Am thinking of buying the proper Rosstech vagcom today.

I had sony phones for years. Then got their x10 and was the worst phone ever. Changed to a Samsung and never looked back. Terrible support from Sony. Phone kept breaking and had to have new motherboard. Had put me off them forever.