Jim Bowen

Yeah I recently got a valeo off eBay. Was his last one but might of got more by now.

Perfect for picking up spare parts to keep a coupe version on the road.

Temp gauge in the dash should be the yellow sender, the after run of aux pump is done on temp (which might be taken from the blue sender)

I've seen it done before if the heater matrix (within dashboard) has broken or one of the pipes as split, its a temp fix really to get you home, Nothing to do with power. Its usually pipes 18 and 21 that get joined.

Can see the lugs on the bottom here Also there are holes in the valance that are the same size and shape, but aren't used, so that may be what you're looking at. Is the rad neck seal ok?, also the plastic parts up the side of rad may crack, or the temp sensor in the rad could be leak.

If thats the part i'm thinking of, its just a hole in the valance, the rad has a little plastic lug that stick out and sits in the hole, there should be two locations like that, should also be a rubber washer that sits between the valance and rad lug. I wouldn't of thought the rad would leak from there, but any leak would probably find its way down to there. In the pic, is rad still in the car?

What i notice is with the door shut, the rubber seal on top of door sits differently each side, drivers side it kinda sticks out a little past the edge of the roof, the passenger side it recessed a bit and looks correct when compared with the seal on the rear side windows.

Its a good time to check the timing chain tensioner top pad, might be worth an upgrade to the MK4 pad and tensioner bolt. I doubt you will need to replace any other timing parts, Clutch should be fine as well. I'd check all the cooling components, especially the plastic parts, although its hard to tell when something might be about to crack. Almost every coolant leak on mine has been a hose or a plastic part, the head gasket went eventually but was after 194,000miles. Do you have the correct coolant or any coolant in there, its not uncommon for leaks to start as soon as the cool weather arrives, seen many people just using plain water in the system.

You won't need to replace the engine. If it is head gasket you should just be able to have the head skimmed and fit a new gasket. Could just be a pipe split, or somewhere letting air into the system which is building up and due to the black cap it might not be reliving itself (oor eer)

:lol: Are you still after the downpipe (think that was you?) its off now.

I did wonder that, i think i will do that and leave them alone until i'm further along.

Fcuk knows what is up with the doors, i can't get them right, put original stuff back on and its the same so maybe the drivers door has always been slightly high when shut, seems to drop down a few mm's as it comes off the latch. Given up for now :lol: Underside was taking forever to clean (it still is really), pic of it so far, its coming up quite well and the rust isn't really that bad underneath. Will be taking the fuel filter/lines off to clean over that side. I bought the karcher steam cleaner, really pleased with it.

Looking at the corrado, i would assume those two things are what he has a lack of :lol:

Probably means powder coat

Could you have a look at this, don't know if you plan to cut the shell? http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=89704

bump....Can anyone help with this?

Oh no. I guess you have the proper mix of G12 in the system. It's not to hard to check over the whole system. I would suggest weak points but mine seemed to have sprung leaks from all places over the years.

I think the problem with the factory wiring is the long route it takes and the lack of relays, its all wired direct to the switch and stalk and drops voltage by the time it reaches the headlamp units.

I'd be looking for where the water is going, that should be the 1st thing to worry about. Oil temp should be higher really, if you think that's inside the engine and the coolant is trying to cool the engine and oil, the coolant wouldn't be doing much if its hotter. You can check the sensors if you have access to vagcom. If the pipes feel really hard and looks a little bloated near the clamps its a sign of the coolant system over pressurising, it will usually blow the pressure out the header tank and you should notice some water marks around the middle of it, or underneath it. Are all of the hoses getting warm after a drive? Could be the thermostat stuck closed causing the overheating.

Am sure thats quite hot for the coolant temp, should sit around 90, do the coolant pipes feel hard after a drive? The fans would be on at 117, thats for sure. Am they both joined by a belt so probably just changing speed when you turned ignition off. The cooling guide thread on here by Dinkus is really worth a read, explains the whole lot.

Am sure thats a late bumper, i think on the early ones the tiny little line curved up near the end. Click pic near the end of the page on this link, quite a good photo http://www.corradog60.com/viewtopic.php?t=47

Je Suis Corrado T-shirt :lol:

When doing axle are you meant to take it off with the mounting brackets still attached? Just curious as i couldn't get one of the axle bush bolts out, it hits on the sill of the car. Get it off with a bit of help from a hammer.

Vw don't have any. Also worth knowing not all the wings are the same. You get early and late. Hard to find 2nd hand in mint condition. I ended up repairing mine as a temp thing. Really want the carbon fibre ones. But think we needed at least 5 people to part with about £1k for a pair.

This week's light on eBay is over £200 already. I struggle to believe it. Surely not.