dukest

Yup, stickied in Engine bay

cool, although the manifold obviously has to come off to do both jobs so kind of worth being able to carry on after the compression test if you decide you need to!

DG did mine (after doing a comp test) with the kit that means the head doesnt have to come off (good obviously!) but I had some other stuff done at the same time though. Allow maybe £250?

my fuel economy is bad and it had been suggested to me that the fact it was using lots of oil would mean that it would then chuck more fuel in to keep running right. cant say thats necessarily the case though as the fuel doesnt seeem to have improved since having the stem seals done. 6 litres in that many miles seems pretty scary :eek: , but at the same time, if i recall, Bill had just had a newly refurbed head put on? my problems started when i put a newly done head on mine and even though the people who'd had it done had paid in good faith for the refurb, it seems that the seals hadnt gone on well and progressively got worse. if the same happened to the head on yours and maybe the seals are shot already then perhaps that could be the issue. compression check sounds like a good precaution though..

they do, but the front is only 20mm i think and Kev's already commented on the standard rear not being up to much. as you say, putting them on together should mean the balance front-to-rear is no different than standard (theoretically) - but they're still anti-roll bars and so together they will do what they say on the tin and make the car roll less at both ends. thats still a benefit but no, obviously not a method to change the car's turn-in characteristics. stiffening things at both ends without changing the balance is a "safer" solution for manufacturers to pitch than just offering a rear which might cause someone without much experience or ability to get into trouble. a little bit, but Kev mentioning he's up for trying a front again with softer springs whereas, with his previous set up, he wasnt is an example of it depending on the stiffness of your springs already. ARBs are effectively stiffening your spring rates when cornering as opposed to when going in a straight line and if they're quite hard already then more front might be too much.

not sure, ET25 would make the wheels sit 37mm further out than a speedline - sounds like a fair amount? coullstar has got fully flared arches remember..

Ok no problem, so do we have an actual cut-off date now? I PM'd the ditherers and people are still after a "no later than" date..

I'm still in if needed but if anyone else out there came along thats fine too. Gareth, is it going to be a "one-order" deal and the price be pulled after our batch gets processed? Ben, could you let us know if/when you were planning to go to the factory? Cheers John

a knife? thats nice, i probably shouldnt even respond, but nice to have the criminal members of the forum make themselves known.. you realise thats against the law right?

as someone who's car burnt out in front of them said (millerman?), having one in the boot is often too far away, if you're going to have one, have it where you can get to it as quickly as possible..

i think next year could be germany time again :)

FFS :?

yes, people do cut sections out of other panels, only place you'd get a new one is vw if you have a blank cheque

if there's no blue smoke then its most likely to be valve stem seals. my 158k engine was using a litre every 650-700 miles previously but had a compression test done last month which proved fine so we changed the seals and it doesnt appear to be using any now.

if its as good as you say it might go for something more than £8k - everyone will have an opinion on this though ;)

cool :) found this poor ferrari on the same site, made me wince.. :pale:

its normally about 6-8 hours work so unlikely anywhere would commit to giving it back to you in 1 day, and thats before any other bits of work you choose to add on (like all the thermostat stuff DG include). 2-3 days more likely.

if it had a bottom end rebuild already then it would be quite surprising that the chains/clutch etc werent done then? but a head rebuild would be the other thing (although that too would normally have been done before the bottom end?) but it would normally be valve stem seals in the head that go first and they can be done without taking the head off if you dont want to split the engine again.

yup, other places normally quote around £850 as Cazza says but that is literally the clutch and chain setup only, not all the other bits that are much easier to do while the main jobs are being done.

The KW V1s must be the most discussed and recommended coilover in the last 3 years on the forum - you must have seen them come up hundreds of times..? There are still other options people have discussed recently if you read the last 5-10 pages on here though.

http://www.koni.uk.com/home/content/view/76/33/ think fla used Raceline from this link recently on his Koni shocks

petrol goes off so i cant see having to run it through a full tank of deteriorated stuff would be better than driving it straight to the nearest petrol station and giving it some brand new juice to get high on :)

i did say I'd go in as no. 10 at the start if it needed someone to make it happen so only really one left..

its fundamentally a good car, and no uglier than half the rest of new cars today. does it need to be any more complicated than that?

thread tidied a little bit, but not too much to make sure any preferences people expressed are still recorded. also added extra names to the front page of people that also showed interest and have PM'd them all to see if they still are. Gareth, would you also be interested in going along to the factory and either way, if some people wanted to, would you want to talk to Comp about that or maybe let Ben talk to his mate there?