swiftkid

Still very much alive and kicking in r32 format - http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=83188 Aqvila's Ice Grey Violet R32

Yes, the drivers side does sit higher even with vt mount (I have an a3 engine with vt mount). I am not planning on cutting anything down so not something I've looked into. I believe the United motorsport is a better fit than dubsport anyway but you could try sean_jaymo or maybe better Kevin bacon aka pianowire aka fish wire as he had the United motorsport downpipe, an a3 engine and vt mounts

Sorry I can't help but best of luck, you'll need it! I've been in your position and it wasn't fun. I'd try emailing people on eBay breaking tt's. Give this guy a try, I have the engine out the a3 but he had a couple of tt's in, nice guy to deal with as well Edit: sorry forgot the link! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Breaking-Audi-A3-8P-3-2-Quattro-DSG-/191423981078?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2c91c22616

From hasan's bad luck it's a lot of work but overall it's not that bad, everything just swaps over, it's just wiring that is a bit daunting. The only problems I came across was immobiliser playing silly bugger and auxillary water pump that wasn't connected (you need to connect 2 wires from engine plug that wasn't originally written about). I was impressed with the conversion, definitely more power bottom end but it did take away some of that vr kick at 3k as the power delivery is a lot smoother and starts lower down

Hoping there may be some people with knowledge of CANBUS on here, I've done an R32 conversion but unfortunately my tacho isn't working off the analogue signal so I'll have to get a tacho convertor. I've had a look around and a few places do the signal convertor for the tacho however what I'd like to do is try take out a few signals (MPG, oil temp and the tacho signal), does anyone know of any products out there with the ability to do this or any companies that might be able to produce something like this? I already have a T-piece in my oil filter housing for oil temp however the canbus uses sump oil temp hence the reason I'd like to pickup that signal.

I'll be helping a mate do a 4WD conversion on his mk2 golf over the next *insert random time length here*, will help me decide if its worth it or not. Few people have done it and few ways you can do it, rallye/syncro boot pan is best bet but good luck finding one, if you do find one let me know! The corrado tunnel is apparently big enough to fit propshaft and exhaust unlike mk2's so thats a plus point, then you need full rear end setup (haldex or syncro stuff) plus gearbox and other stuff to go with it.

Awesome news that! Been out in obd2 goodness yet?

I hope you are getting full price of corrado plus the jazz because I agree, they are built like crap. My friend has one that she now has to unlock the car from the boot as all the locks have knackered and then get into the boot through the rear seats because the handle is knackered lol!!!

No, had a3 manifolds which are same as mk5 and vr6 downpipe. Cool, keep us updated, I will be interested as mine was only intended as a temporary fix

Picture suggests 205/40/16

Yea lol, take a look in my build thread, I have mk5 which are similar angle but not straight fit. Needed to modify a fair bit, I got some flanges made and then welded together with lower section of vr standard with a bit of tweaking

I'm after a new manifold so if you find anything let me know. Difficulty I have is that I have mk5 manifold so can't use United motorsport downpipes, not that I would anyway due to the fact it is beyond impossible to get hold of anyone at that company, but also I don't have flexi in my sports cat so I'll need to have the flexi joint in the manifold which dubpower one isn't

Here's the link to chain replacement, also has timing setup. Sounds like you have timing right though. How did you get on with checking wiring? http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1264409-DIY-Replacing-timing-chains-tensioners-and-guides-on-a-12v-VR6%5C

But it can be a flat brand new battery, id stick it on charge or try another battery to rule it out

I would start with the basics and work back -is the wiring OK... Yes -do I have spark... Yes -do I have fuel... Yes And then start adding variables in, as Jim says though, have you double checked timing on chain? You can get intermediate shaft 180 degrees out

Best of luck tomorrow, drop me a pm if you get stuck

T42/22 is coolant temp sensor g62 as shown, should be a blue wire

Yes, thats probably your problem, I havn't been through all the wires but I have noticed various differences in pin placement between obd1 & 2. I can't get to wiring diagrams at work but it may take some time to rewrite them. Picture of T42 plug in this thread: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=87250

I've got KW V1's and couldn't recommend them more, I disagree with Kev's comments about spending more. If you are wanting to spend hours messing with the dampening settings etc then yea, you need to spend more but if you are like me and you want to bolt them on and have the freedom to set the ride height yourself then I'd massively advise them with the inox coating. My friend religiously buys the cheap and nasty £150 german ebay specials for his car and everytime he wants to change the ride height its coilovers off, blow torch and hammer to change them. I didn't touch mine for about 2 years and all I did was slacken off the grub screw on the adjuster and hand wind them off, I was massively impressed! I tend to run mine pretty low and the ride is perfect, I don't like to drive around feeling every bump but at the same time I like to feel the road not drive on a cloud and get seasick like standard ride height.

The engine is an A3 which from what I've read is basically a mk5 base engine. Think we had the conversation before but for some reason it wasn't suitable, anyway, its there if your interested.

They are some lovely wheels!

I have a 3.2 head for sale, in fact I have a full 3.2 engine for sale. Bottom end was run dry so crank is shot but engine itself looks usable.

Your 3 wires for the coil are apparently as per picture below. If you've swapped wires and nothing has changed I'd suspect something isn't right there. Have you been through the ht leads again to see if they are sparking differently?

What I meant was the actual trigger wheel on the cog itself, I thought you said you swapped over the Cams when you did the obd2 swap?

Yea, as follows: Injectors 1 - pin 25, grey 2 - pin 15, grey/green 3 - pin 14, grey/red 4 - pin 33, grey/blue 5 - pin 32, grey/black 6 - pin 10, grey/green Coilpack wiring Pin 1 brown - pin 36 Pin 2 black/brown - pin 37 to ecu pin 8 Pin 3 black/blue - pin 38 to ecu pin 60 Pin 4 black/purple - pin 39 to ecu pin 52 Pin 5 black - pin 40 to fusebox g1/4 Lambda and maf shouldn't cause that. Couple of other things to try, clean blue temp sensor out and make sure wiring is OK. Remove cam position sensor and give that a clean. Hopefully you'll sort it soon without much cost, shame you're so far away, would have been happy to pop round