swiftkid

My guess is either the battery earths or the ignition switch. Battery is easy one to check, just take connections off, give them a sand down and bolt them back on. I've had it before where they go a bit green and cause intermittent starting issues. Other one could be ignition switch but that shouldn't affect interior light, unless its on crank.

Hello & welcome, try this: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/the_corrado_buying_guide_checklist.html Biggest things to check are sunroof, rear spoiler (on switch and when upto speed), A pillar and around windscreen for rot and then just other bits on buying checklist.

Similar spec to most of the wide wheels people run, would look the same as the off the shelf stuff like borbet, schmidt etc with 9x16 et15 & et30. Front's wouldn't be as wide but outer lip would be same position.

So it looks like it comes straight off the radiator temp sensor which it would indeed remove the FCM but would only be single speed which, to be honest, is usually the case when people put 2 slimline fans on anyway - certainly how mine works. As I understand it, it takes power directly off the battery and uses the rad temp sensor as the relay trigger, simple but should work nicely. Looks a very nice bit of kit but absolutely bonkers money for what it is, 2 x 12inch fans are massively overkill for most of us & they might not even fit with R32 swaps, I have barely any room at the front. Could easily be done for a fraction of the price BUT they are a business so they are out to make money, if people want them they will pay.

"Just looking into the possibility of replacing the corrado with a prius or fiat multipla"

I've only drawn a couple of bits up for 3D printing purposes like the heater cog and VR6 badges but can draw anything up. I don't have any scanning equipment, I just measure and model it up, I'd definitely be interested in drawing up the sunroof arm as mine is broken. If anyone has one kicking about I could draw it up, even a broken one as it's usually the pivot pin that snaps off.

I use 2D & 3D drawing software so could get certain things drawn up but the major factor would be cost of getting things machined. I work with a few companies that can machine parts but complex parts need either tooling or machining out of blocks of steel/alu so aren't that cheap. Happy to give it a go though

I have noticed that the price of corrado parts have sky rocketed in the past few years, things like interiors are going for bonkers money. Sadly when the price of components are going up faster than the price of the full car it's easy to see why more people are breaking them for spares. Back on topic, I have seen the £500 dials for sale and think it's absolutely horrendous price but they are worth whatever people want to pay, which seems about that. Best way to find out is stick them up for sale, if they don't sell you know it's priced too high.

Mine does the exact same thing, been doing it for years and it's the ABS pedal sensor on the master cylinder. Well known for the connections to go crusty inside and there's a write up on here how to take it apart and clean it but I've got a full teves20 system to go on so never bothered. I think Stealth do a repair service on them My symptom is when I'm at a relatively low speed I get a humming noise like a compressor with the ABS in full action. As soon as I touch the brake pedal its full brakes, annoying as hell but I've learn't to live with it. Also just to add, my ABS light is off as well.

Had that thought for a while, barely drive it anymore, motivation isn't what it used to be etc. Hoping to get some work done over the winter (like I say every winter) and rekindle the love next year

Was there supposed to be a hyperlink?

That is scary! Might be that the arm had been bent a bit to overcome the naff spring and caused the fatigue but shouldn't really happen full stop. Definitely time to upgrade to lupo/TT arms though, a million times better than the crappy standard ones.

Really sorry to hear about that, very worrying though. Was it the standard resistor that went? Is that it for Corrado ownership then? Might be interested in ARB & gearbox like the rest of us vultures!

I'll be honest, I paid someone I knew to do install it as he was a toad certified fitter but it only took him a few hours. If I were you I'd compare the new wiring with old and you might get away with swapping old for new as they are both doing a similar job it should be same connections. The main unit is behind the centre console tucked away neatly, if you remove the glovebox it should give you plenty of room to manoeuvre. I think personally I'd go for duraseal type connections for ease of working behind the dash but soldering would do just fine as well, just make sure soldered joints aren't near any moving parts and you don't set fire to anything whilst soldering. when joining onto existing wires, I'd like to hear others opinions, I have soldered to them before and taped it up neatly but I guess cutting and crimping with a duraseal is probably the correct way to do it.

No, its just 70Nm so an additional 10Nm. Same way if you torque it to 70Nm and then retorque it to 70Nm you wouldn't then get 140Nm, it would just click straight away. You can get all the advice but unfortunately it's down to you whether to change or not, my mate once misinterpreted the torque settings on a 9a (2.0 16v), it said 180 (90), 180 (90) - as in 180 degrees, back 90 and instead went 180, then another 90. I genuinely thought they were going to snap but turned out to be the most reliable engine out of all of us. As long as you don't remove the head you could probably get away with loosening them all up in sequence (leave them just over finger tight on the safe side) and then replacing. Does your dad not remember how far he went with each?

Sprinter, lets not get into an argument about this. We know you are a salesman and 3D printing items is essential competition, agree the quality is not amazing on the cheaper printers, I know because I own one but higher spec printers create higher quality items. Small clips & items not on show are a great idea to 3D print, agree the likes of number plate panels and larger items aren't such a good idea due to costs of printing but bear in mind the koenigsegg body panels & turbo are 3D printed. Also just to add, you've posted links from german ebay, left hand drive items

No, it's not a corrado club organised event, its VW festival for all makes and models. I think the CCGB do request you be a member to show on the corrado club stand but I've always shown with mates or in show & shine. You do have to register & be accepted by VW festival organisers for show and shine. Too early for next years dates but likely to be around the same time

Well made it into the show field Saturday but they had lockdown until 4 this year so couldn't be bothered to wait until then to leave, just left it in the camping field, any eagle eye'd folks might have spotted it on the left before the gate. Was a good show, nice to meet some of you, certainly need to pull my finger out and sort some bits on my car

Definitely the right way to go Jim, one of the best mods I did to my VR6. On paper you don't get the peak power so BHP you'll find a little less than expected BUT the torque curve is much better which is the benefit. The power seems to come much earlier so you don't get that 3k kick/laziness but unless you run a schrick you can't have low down torque & peak power, the best setup would be OBD2 & a schrick... or an 24v I found quite an improvement in MPG, also personally never had a problem with idle but everyone does say it improves (built into throttle body). Tonnes of info in OBD2 thread but you will not regret it!

I haven't, I started the project with the intention of uploading the design for others to print as I'm going mk4 climate control but useful to know for other projects

Do you mean a mk4 or mk3? I've got all the bits ready to do the mk4 swap and tbh it seems on the face of it fairly easy, when I start taking things apart it might be different. You can use the full mk4 heater box and cut glove box short or use corrado fan section and not have recirculation. Wiring is literally about 6 wires

I have a 3D printer myself and I've designed and printed the direction heater cog (the one that always breaks) but unfortunately the quality of my printer isn't good enough to be able to produce them for people to use, I did reinforce the channel a little but it's still in prototype phase but I ran out of filament. I'm happy to send the .ipt/.stl file across if you wanted a go? Another one I've designed and printed is a 'VR32' badge but renewarts stuff really is a hundred times better than my attempts. Goldie, I think for small businesses just wanting rapid prototyping the max size is about 300mm x 300mm x 300mm but a block that big would take about 2 weeks constant printing and absolutely bucket loads of filament, which isn't cheap.

As bandit said, nip down to DIY shop or do what I do and use a bit of old seat belt.

I've got a mk3 scirocco type one on mine, imo looks loads better. Wasn't bothered about DAB just wanted a neater look, I think the scirocco ones do fit but were more expensive. I just removed the rear trim from headliner and should give you enough clearance to remove and refit. something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-SCIROCCO-MK3-RADIO-STEREO-ROOF-AERIAL-SHARK-FIN-ANTENNA-BASE-1K0035507L-08-18/232695815401?fits=Model%3AScirocco&epid=28016438280&hash=item362dc05ce9:g:YJAAAOSw7wxapqmW

No not related, been doing it for ages, click 'remember me' when you login and it should sort it