Ice White Socks

Hi Made a bit of a bit of a silly mistake last year when I let some dent removal guy drill a small 3mm hole into the skin of the rear quarter to get a dent out above the petrol filler cap. Anway forgot to seal it and now getting bubbling just on very inner of the wheel arch. My guess is water has flicked up into the hole and run down the inside of the rear quarter :x :( Its more of a stinker cos the rear quarter it was replaced about a year ago- anyway my godfather owns a top notch classic car restoration bodyshop so its gonna get put right- just after any advice from people on what do to get it put right?? especially in making sure the inner of the rear quarter is dry and treated before we seal the hole back up?? Cheers

The build looks lovely so far Jay; not only do you seem to be able to work some serious mechanical miracles; but the finished products seem so well styled in terms of colour; interior, wheels etc There are quite a few corrados that look fantastic, and quite a few really impressive engine transplants/ conversions etc- but its not often people can do both together- well done fella!

Yep- I use the Bilstein Sprintline spring/ shocks and they are lovely- although a little hard- seems to be just about the right lowering height as well Cheers

That Impreza was up for sale on this forum and I think he sold it too. But yeah- nice bloke

You can just check the jets for continuity - Chances are they will be pooped- Both of mine had gone on my '95 car and I have just replaced them both. Each nozzle will separate into two parts- just pull the inner out with a pair of long nose pliers. Its not difficult to resolder the connections however there is a small round resistor which acts as a contact surface on one side of the connection- Make sure you keep that in the circuit- otherwise too much current will pass through the nozzle body and you'll frazzle the fuses... :-( Cheers

Gibber got it right with the trim tape- Thats exactly whats all the side rubbing strips etc are held on with and if you clean the surfaces properly with thinners like the man says- those sill protectors will be there for keeps! Cheers

Any idea on how much you could expect to pay for the parts and labour on fitting a new set of rear axle bushes. I caually mentioned it to a local VW 'specialist' and was told £160 for genuine VAG rubber- sounded a lot to me.. Cheers

Been working down South for a few days and seen loads!! - Mystic blue VR on M25 at M3 turn off about 5:30 Fri Night - White quite modded Corrado heading into London on M3 about 5:45pm Fri Night - Red guernsey plated Corrado outsid the dell Southampton 7pm-ish Fri night - Red Corrado parked opposite the dell in Southampton 7pm Fri night - Mystic Blue Storm- Dropped and poss tinted rear quarter windows 7:10pm ish outside the Dell Southampton Thats Five corrdos in two hours- Wow Cheers

Wahey- sorted this over the weekend- I was down on power by approx 30bhp and my Vag-com was delayed in arriving so I just went for the Cam Pos Sensor and got all the power back but then it ran badly on part throttle, overun etc.. Anyway- must somehow have changed the throttle cable run when I had the engine covers off- result being that I was hitting the pedal stop before the butterfly was fully open! Tightened the throttle cable up, reset the ECU and now I have got my old VR back :) :) - I had forgotten how nice it sounded and what smile it puts on your face. Haven't rechecked the TPS for range yet but my guess it will be back in spec. Cheers for the advice on this though

Hello, Still suffering from a VR that runs like a bag of spanners :( , The TPS on Vag-com shows a range of 14-84 degrees- though I believe it should go over 90 at WOT. Could this cause running problems? will I need a new TPS or can I just tighten the throttle cable or reset using vag-com? Cheers Mike

It was actually the pulley bearing I was thinking of- I just can't seem to find the 'how-to' guide . Shouldn't it be in the 'knowledge base'?

Kev, I have always found your advice to be spot on mate (if your referring to the 'other' thread there). I would be interested to hear what Vince says about your ignition logs anyway. I think I'm just clutching at straws with the knock sensors- Its just frustrating when your cars runs like a bag of spanners without any obvious reason why :-(

Hi, I am sure there used to be a 'how-to' guide for changing this, sorry to be a retard but does anyone know where I can find it :oops: Cheers

Well I think I might have cooked up a theory for this problem. When I had the engine in bits checking for vacuum leaks and loose plug leads etc, I also noticed an irregular knocking from the left hand side of the engine- I think this is the belt tensioner- its not grinding or squealing though- it knocks every one-two seconds. I reckon this is being picked up by the knock sensors and retarding the ignition- I can't think of another reasonable explanation- I'll get it changed and see what happens :roll:

Cheers for that mate- much appreciated- be good to know what your ignition timing ranges between at Idle. Great call on checking the timing vs revs using the log function as well :D

OK two more things I thought about yesterday: 1) I checked the blue Temperature sender from cold to hot- that looked fine but I remember the EGR temp reading 180 degress before I even started the engine- could this sensor affect ignition timing?? 2) The car stalled twice yesterday on startup which makes me think maybe ISV sticking somewhere- one of the measuring blocks indicates the ISV function soomehow (on idle mine read 54%) could i use this measuring block to indicate an ISV problem? Cheers Mike

Hello, Had some trouble with the VR after fitting a new Cam Position Sensor, basically it has lost some of its sensitivity and flexibilty at part throttle- sometime you feel like the more you press the throttle the slower the engine goes. I have checked absolutely everything obvious- the car still has all its power at full throttle, Vag-com is clean, no pinking, ISV cleaned, car idles fine etc etc. The only thing that caught my eye was the ignition timing field on Vag-com at idle. The correct value is supposed to be Six degrees BTDC which mine averages at. This value updates on Vagcom- every second or so and mine jumps like 6, 3.8, 5.9, 6.8 etc never goes below 3.8 or above 6.8 but jumps around quite a bit- is this normal? Cheers

Thanks Henny- is that in order though i.e. top to bottom? otherwise how will i know which wire needs to go to which terminal? Cheers

Does anyone know how to wire these up then- I though some cars had the connectors already tucked into the wiring loom, but assuming mine won't have- what go where? I think there are only four connections so I am hoping it can't be that hard!! Cheers Mike

Wahay- Just got confirmation from an Irish Dealer that my gauges have turned up!! Am well chuffed. This was the guy mentioned in the last post about these VDO gauges maybe two weeks ago- I think someone else has placed an order with him and they have turned up as well- so its official that these gauges are still readily available from outside the UK!! I have a part list that someone PM'd me with about a year ago for all the senders etc that I would need- Am i right in thinking VW still sell everything that is needed to get these things working in the car? Mike

yes I'll be doing just the same- a new Bilstein sprintline Kit and a whole pile of new bushes and joints etc. Four months driving round in Bradford and Leeds have made it feel like a right jalopy :(

I would have though the later corrados were a pig to steal- Deadlocks and an ECU immobiliser, in addition to the probable Cat 1 that most owners will have added- I use a disclock as well so I reckon the only way my cars going anywhere is if its being towed on the back off a flatbed lorry. ( I really hope I never get proved wrong on that though :( )

The stub axle isn't expensive IIRC- maybe £25-£35 quid and its not a big job to change. If i was being honest you would have to have given it a pretty good whack to bend the stub axle (Like spinning it into a kerb, going backwards like me..), and even then it would have to be bent like a banana before you could notice its effect on the wheel camber... Mike

Search on ISV Neil and you'll get the answer- Also clean the throttle body and round the throttle butterfly to make sure its sealing when the throttle is fully closed. It shouldn't be anything serious so don't get too worried about it.. Cheers Mike

Seen two this weekend, Got flashed by Corrado on the A6 in Disley last night about 5pm- looked up late so didn't catch the year or model, Then saw a nice sherry pearl C a few in the Hope Valley this morning. I was on my mountain bike covered in shite but I made a point of rubbernecking your car :D