Ice White Socks

I am sure I am not the only one who must be a bit worried by all this talk of knackered tensioners/ chains at well under 100k :? Is it fair to say that it would be making a fair old racket by the time the tensioner gets that bad, or is the only way to tell by actually getting the engine stripped down. :?: I think I had better get some money put aside :cry:

:D :D :D :D :D That made me laugh :lol:

The rear camber isn't adjustable but that doesn't mean it can't be out. I would get the camber checked- if it is out it could be possibly bent stub axle, then maybe a bent rear axle- at worst it may have been bent in a shunt :( . To be honest you would need a seriously shagged bearing or axle bush to get a scubbed outer tyre. Mike

Cheers for the replies guys :) - Its lucky really because the guy I bought it off never mentioned that it had been lowered so I just assumed that all Corrados sat that low- It has made a big difference to the looks of it though :D :D . If you can't afford coilovers then I would recommend the Bilstein Sprintline kit- Nice drop and a nice firm ride. Cheers Mike

Hello, Well I have finally got round to getting my car clean enough to make it worth taking some pictures. Its pretty much standard apart from a Bilstein Sprintline dampers and springs which take away that 4x4 VR6 look! I am a bit hungover at the moment :( so I will post the pics and add more on to the description a bit later in the week :) Cheers Mike

I am not an expert on this but there is a way of changing the front bearing without having to get it retracked (certainly on the VR anyway)- something to do with taking the whole strut off. Its just mine went in for a front bearing and I searched thru old posts about it and a few people mentioned it there :wink: Mike

Hello, I see a lot of people talking about getting CCGB discounts at dealers- what discount will CCGB membership get you and are all VW dealers obliged to honour it. Its just that I am going for a big parts order (new discs, Lupo wiper set up and centre gauge panels) so I could save a fair whack of cash if I join up before ordering. Not that thats the only reason I would be joining mind, but it is a very good incentive :D Cheers

Not many people seem to able to replace the thermostat without cracking the housing- I would get a new one before you start the job Mike

I had my first proper race against a 330d. He flew down a sliproad and joined a motorway I was on- He flew straight into the fast lane obviously having a thrash. We went from 70 to an indicated 144 and the VR stuck like glue to his rear :) I was getting hailed with all the crap those big rear tyres were throwing up off the motorway so I dropped off the gas but he carried on going- he was over the horizon in about a minute so yes- they are pretty quick

Hello, Just starting to get my confidence back in driving the VR after a bad spin due to cheap over-inflated tyres and a sharp greasy off camber bend which happened about two weeks after I bought it :( Anway took it for a real blat at the weekend (the handling is just superb :D ), In was coming into the corners so hard that I noticed that the drivers seat was lifting out of the rail at the back in hard cornering. Its only on one side but there is about 3-4mm of play- the other side is rock solid. The seat was taken out six months ago for body work- is there anything between the seat rail and the seat that the mechanics could have forgot to put back that might cause this play? Cheers

Cheers mate- Might take you up on that 8)

Makes me think about an old advert for what I think was an Audi RS4. Showed a greyhound race with all the dogs running flat out with their tongues hanging out etc. You could see the traps in the background and in the end trap there was a cheetah just lying down looking really mean- I think it was trying to say that if you have got the power under the bonnet then you can afford to just take it easy- Like you say leave the racing to the 1.3 novas 8) . Saying that I think my Corrados getting a little long in the tooth for getting pummelled every weekend- Every time a thrash it something else either breaks or drops off :( Cheers

The engine looks super Henny- I come from around your area (Buxton) and spend every other weekend down there. I noticed on a previous post you have already sampled the joys of the Cat & Fiddle road over to Macclesfield :mrgreen:. Let me know if you ever take your g60 for a spank around that area at a weekend- If I am about I'll try and meet you some place and get a look at your car in the flesh :) Cheers Mike

Hello, I was going to T-cut the car this weekend but I always see people advising against it on the forum. The thing that baffles me is why do people say it takes the paint off. Surely most Corrados are metallic paint so doesn't that mean that they are laquered over the top of the paint :? The reason I ask is that my car always seems to get so filthy so quickly so I thought if I get some metallic T-cut and give it a good going over it will clean/smooth all the laquer and hopefully make it harder for the dirt ot stick to it Would this be worth doing or am I just talking pap :wink: Cheers

Hello, I have tried to answer this with the search but haven't quite found what I need. I am having a bit of trouble with what I think is slopppy engine mounts. It just takes a fraction of a second too long fo the power to come through when moving hard up thru the gears- almost like the engine is wallowing around taking up the slack in the mounts before putting the down the power :( . Have looked at the rear mount- hasn't leaked. All the posts on the front mounts breaking seem to be from the G60 brigade. I will check myself next weekend if the engine is moving with the old 1st gear handbrake on trick. What mount would make the biggest difference in reducing this movement. Finally cos money is a little tight- how easy is it to change the front mount. Cheers Mike

'95 Mystic Blue Storm- 85k with FSH and every old MOT :) The guy that owns the garage that services the car use a nice G40 for running about in but has a mystic blue storm with only 22K on the clock- Summer use only :shock: . Now that is going to be a special car in a couple of years time 8) Mike

You know thats a very good point actually- It would be very easy to check for the rear caliper brake problems on one of those MOT jobbas that check the braking force on each wheel individually- Anyone know how braking force is measured on these MOT tests, and what value would in indicate a problem (apart from zero obviously).

Absolutely spot on- There is no better feeling in the world than exacting a little piece of instant justice 'judge dread style' That is unbelievable :mad: :mad: . There is no way in the world that lardy arsed woman couldn't have known what she had done- I think I might start parking across two spaces myself now!

I went for Toyo Proxes T1-S. Very pleased with the grip but they are wearing a little too quickly for my liking. I have seen a few other guys post good things about them too. I did a fair bit of research before I got mine and they seemed to be well regarded. Cheap as well :lol: Mike

Fluid was changed only a few months back :? . Surely if the brake are applied say 20%, then the grabbing occurs when the warped part of the discs moves into and out of the pad as it goes round. I don't suffer any other braking problems save epic amounts of fade on mega thrashes :-P - but I know the discs and pads are shagged anyway because it went in for a new wheel bearing today and the garage flagged up the worn pads and discs in that other comments part of the receipt. I am not disregarding your comments though- I'll get the discs/pads sorted out and if there are still problems I'll have a look at the pistons/calipers. Cheers

Just out of interest Kev how did you notice this? was it that your pads weren't wearing at all or were you just noticing general braking problems. What was the reason for them not working? I only ask cos I am checking my discs/pads/shocks at the weekend- might as well give the calipers a check as well if they might not be working :shock: Cheers Mike

This is kind of off topic but it involves both VR and V6 4 motion. parked up next to a german plated one in the multistorey today- had a quick look as you do- looked great. came back an hour and the top door trim was all sprung out at the top of the drivers door- looked like it had been twoced. Checks the rado out- no damage. Gets in my car and some german fella pips the alarm on the V6- so I get back out and said 'I am really sorry but someones had a pop at your car' feeling ashamed to be British and all that. Turns out a retaining clip on the trim was duff and apparently it did it all the time :shock:. It was just so bizarre that it looked perfect when I arrived and twoced itself by the time I got back :lol: :lol: Anyway alls well that ends well

Hello, When I pull up to a junction braking gently, the brakes grab on and off slightly which feels like warped discs :( . Which ones are more likely to have warped- the fronts or backs? How much is it going to cost me for an upgraded set of discs/ pads- also do people every upgrade the rears as well or are stanadards more then capable? Cheers Mike

Another tip that I learned the hard way- You will need to disconnect the air trunk 'elbow' which is takes the air from the filter into the throttle body, when you manouver it out of the way to get inside the throttle body- make sure you don't force the small pipe that goes from the middle of the elbow into the engine block- it tears very easily. You will also need the tool to take the plug leads off- Some people say it came with the car- I had to buy mine from a dealer- cost £20 but its a decent quality tool. Mike

Its not an easy job- My garage managed it without taking the slam panel off but it took him ages anyway.Think mine was under £200 with a flush out and a nice new header tank full of G12 8) . I have changed radiators on other cars but it looked so tight :shock: I just left it to the garage. Mike