Sean_Jaymo

More busy progress! Rebuild is complete for all intensive purposes. I need to get the downpipe sorted out still, but the wife wants to go on holiday, so funds need to be aimed at that instead! I've got a set of 288 calipers and carriers, I just need to get them cleaned up and fit a new piston to one caliper. Then a case of brake bleeding, coolant system checking and little odds and sods. It looks good being back in one piece! Ish! And a little video for you!

Those links don't work though. Is the album private?

I'm looking at KDS to do mine later on in the project. The stuff he puts up on detailing world is always a notch above anybody else! His website prices also look pretty reasonable considering the final outcome and compared to a respray cost.

Now actually sold!

I'd say it more than likely a clutch release bearing. DMF issues tend to be noticed more at idle. Don't worry about it, life's too short and the car's too cheap to be an issue.

That's a lot of car for the cash and running it should be cheap!

Hot starting is rarely fuel related on injection engined cars. If however you have your foot on the accelerator, you can flood the engine if you have a bit of a weak ignition system. Air on a cold start is a little bit denser due to the cold environment of the engine and if you pump the accelerator a bit on a cold start, the the extra fuel will be compensated by the denser air and beneficial to the weaker spark. When the air temperature rises in a warm engine, you loose this extra density and you essentially flood the engine. When you have too high an air/fuel mix, the mixture won't ignite and you potentially end up with a vapour lock which is when you have the fuel in the combustion chamber evaporating into the inlet manifold (as well as the exhaust but that's not the problem). This excess fuel can then either recondense in the inlet manifold or stay a vapour which will enrich the fresh air coming in to the combustion chamber with fuel causing a rich air/fuel mixture again which puts the whole cycle into a vicious circle! To help cure this, leave the ignition off for a few moments and hold the accelerator open fully to allow the vapour to evaporate before starting again. When you restart, try not to touch the accelerator. So in essence, you potentially have; A tired maf feeding the wrong air flow data to the ecu for it to fuel the injectors (not likely if it's good on fuel otherwise) A split vacuum hose somewhere allowing in too much air (usually noticed with a lumpy idle with the severity of the idle being governed by the size of the split). This is likely if you don't pump the pedal a bit on startup. A weak ignition system (hesitation under load with the severity being governed by the weakness) Essentially, you need fuel, oxygen and ignition. Too much of anything in there and you get a mixture which is too rich or lean to start.

Breaking the Corrado is 'fairly easy'!

If it starts and fires without chugging for a few seconds when cold, then your fpr is holding its pressure and is ok. With full pressure, the engine should fire pretty much instantly. As long as everything else is working well that is. It's another issue if it doesn't start straight away when warm but it does when it's cold. I only say start the car from cold and leave it a few mins to run before trying to restart to eliminate potential battery drain and cold start problems.

Complete with elbow pads?

Do you have a few available? I may take one, but won't know until later tomorrow.

I'm sure some people have bought an entire corrado for £80! Shame my 21 year old and 192k fall outside 'just' the outside your terms as well!

That's quite some time for leads. Maybe worth looking at replacing them if the FPR comes back as being good. I think leads are a 40 or 60k item? Can't tell you for certain though.

Turn the engine on and get it running for a minute or 2 to eliminate any cold start or battery problems. Turn it off and leave it 30 seconds. If the engine fires immediately then the fpr is holding fuel pressure and is ok, if it take a few cranks to fire into life, then the fpr is on its way out and you are relying on the fuel pump to build sufficient pressure to start. Either the fpr is on its way or the vacuum line controlling it is beyond its best. A good fpr should hold its pressure for a few days. ---------- Post added at 11:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:19 PM ---------- It does sound like an ignition problem to me, are the spark plugs ok and gapped properly, how old are the leads? They break down with age and loose their 'fizz' a bit.

I'd vote for you! Education can work but seeing as most people don't have any form of education after passing their test, It could take 50 - 70 years before you begin to eradicate those people who don't drive properly. I say, make all cars (except mine obviously!) underpowered - Say 30 bhp. That would force people to think ahead as there isn't the performance available to drive erratically. Look at the way truck drivers (mostly) plan ahead and get annoyed when people cut them up. People tend to remember when you take their money from them. Sometimes they even learn from it!

It's the trucks overtaking each other that causes the most delays Imo. It forces the car drivers who were doing 63.4 mph behind them into the outside lane causing the entire 3 lanes to slow down and bottleneck. This coupled with tailgating people and those riding the brake pedal for no actual reason other than for the driver to feel like they're slowing down when in reality, they're not; result in causing phantom traffic jams. Ban trucks from racing each other at peak hours and that should help a lot. If it's not banned on motorways, at least ban it on dual carriageways!

I spent 10 miles on a empty m74 yesterday overtaking 1 dorris, pulling to the nearside lane letting them past and doing it again before she noticed... Before any do gooder has a whinge and I know someone will, I wasn't speeding, driving too close or cutting her up. I was on a 380 mile journey and was bored!

Mines a 92 ands it's red vr6 badge and colour coded corrado script.

Provisionally sold.

That's a really good price!

When I did my 24v wiring, that was for the lambdas/Heated o2 sensor.

How does £20 sound?

​Bump - Another week and then I'll have to break this for parts. I need the space now!

Thanks Dave, ill chuck in a couple extra quid for you!

That will work for me. How much do you want posted? 02J is the follow on gearbox to the 02A found on the Corrado. It's a much crisper gearchange. You can tell the difference as the 02A has a big plastic lump on the top and the 02J doesn't.