Dox

Carpets wet?

Pic from my non running storm, the wiring was done before I bought it

If I had to guess I'd say the heater in the lambda was shorting blowing a fuse so they cut the wires to it? The heater is used to make the lambda read faster from a cold start, without it the exhaust gasses will have to heat the lambda to its working temp. As you've fitted a new lambda there shouldn't ba a problem any longer, VW fitted 4 wires because it needs 4 wires for optimum performance

Cut the plugs off and hard wire them? or get someone to cut a section of loom off for you, either way its connecting 4 wire together.

Google brought up this http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mcolours1.htm

I think they're doing 10 American cars first, UK stuff follows later in the year. Sorry if it says that in the vid, PC probs ensure I can't view the video...........

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-CORRADO-VR6-RARE-FUTURE-CLASSIC-SPENT-STUNNING-CONDITION-/251886156633?hash=item3aa595bb59 Looks a clean one? Not mine

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-BBS-RC323-7-5x17-4x100-ET35-VW-Golf-Mk1-Mk2-Mk3-Corrado-VW-Polo-Lupo-/261818918006?hash=item3cf59fa476 Not mine

I car share with a lad with a 60 plate Focus ST 5 cylinder turbo, ford motune mapped, exhaust, intercooler and bilsteins, its a very good car even on our pot holed roads

It may be worth stating if its 2.8 or 2.9, if you're not sure a pic of the underside would clarify this or google the part number

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RARE-VW-1992-CORRADO-1-8-G60-SUPERCHARGED-MK2-GOLF-BREAKING-WHEEL-NUT-/151623757894?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item234d7af046

The top one appears to be correct for the c, the bottom appears to be mk2 golf

The rear bearings are exactly the same parts as 1960s Beetles use on the front wheels, the technology is old and needs to be tested as such, too tight and the bearings squeeze all the grease out so the bearings are effectively turning dry against the races

There should be some slight movement when jacked up with the handbrake off holding the wheel at 3 and 9oclock and rocking them gently, swap your hands to 12 and 6 oclock and you'll see more movement due to stub axle wear. If you try to adjust out the wear at 12 and 6 you'll reduce the life of the taper bearings. If they're not noisy or rough when spun (hold the road spring when you spin the wheel as it amplifys any roughness in the bearing) then they're OK, the tester is more used to modern cassette type bearings and is just covering his arse.

Take it back before you damage the gearbox. Do the gears sellect ok with the engine off and clutch in?

No need to open anything, it only works if theres air trapped near worn seals - air will leak past where fluid wont. It also splits the bubbles of air making them easier to bleed out. Don't blame me if it finishes off a worn master and you can't make it Sunday.

Do the gears crash with the pedal to the floor? If so you have trapped air or poor seals on the mastercylinder. Why was the slave changed?

Unable to sellect first gear with your foot to the floor is due to clutch drag (the clutch is not fully clearing the flywheel), you could try bleeding it. Sometimes if there is air around the seals or joints it can be purged by wedging the pedal down overnight

Classic green Storm (N###WAN?) on Nantwich Road Crewe 14:15 today following an F plate 944

I owned a 10V Golf estate for 2 years, averaged just shy of 30 MPG in that time, performance was OK for 150BHP, much nicer to drive than a 1.8T Octavia touring the coastal routes of Cornwall as that was always off boost on the tight and twisty roads, the 1.8T was 10% better on fuel though. Would I fit one to a Corrado, no

If its the 20V V5 then its as complicated as the BDE V6 (VVT on both cams), you may as well fit the V6 as it'll be worth more than the extra cost of buying the engine when it comes to sell it

Admiral Multicar

Check the wiring to the tailgate too, I had an audi 80 cab that locked the doors everytime I pressed the brake pedal

I'm not going to bid, I just look what's on there occasionally