Dox

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-GTI-MK2-16V-G60-JETTA-CORRADO-FRONT-REAR-DOOR-PIN-PULL-COLLAR-SURROUNDS-/361188829251?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5418882843 Not mine, I know others are searching for these, personally I'm not sure MK2 and Corrado are the same item? But you're on to a winner if they are

Missfire or poor idle?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CV-Grease-500g-Tin-Granville-Molybdenum-Bearing-Joints-Constant-Velocit-0168-/121533296783?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c4bf2f08f It says its OK for wheelbearings? I've always used LM (Low Melting point Castrol) personally

Just a bit lol http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volswagen-VW-Corrado-VR6-/271742063096?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3f4516d1f8 I dread to think whats under the gaffer tape above the screen................

Whats the gun rated at? What other air tools would you like to use with it in the future? Choose carefully with any future purchases in mind

You need to buy a compressor to suit the air needs of the gun being used, the gun will be rated used at a certain pressure (PSI) and cubic foot per minute (CFM) and you'll need some capacity in reserve otherwise you'll be waiting for the pressure to build up all the time. Most new guns will be the HVLP type - High Volume Low Pressure needing a high CFM from the compressor. My advice is to ask sellers for their advice. I have a 150 psi, 9 CFM, with a 150L tank (its 30 years old) and that can struggle using tools with a high CFM rating, you basically have to down tools until the pump cuts out and you have full capacity before you can go again.

They look very worn, compare them to the ebay listing above. If the bearings are good, the slip rings not too worn (these are the copper rings the brushes come in contact with) you may get away with a brush pack

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALTERNATOR-REGULATOR-VW-PASSAT-Estate-3A5-35I-2-0-16V-136BHP-Top-German-Quali-/321430516866?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ad6c07482 Thats just an example, you need the correct one for your alternator

Check the wiring first? Regulator / brush pack is usually around £30. 2 screws removes it and check the shortest carbon brush for sooty deposits on the end

RHD servo position and a DV near to it suggests forced induction? Maybe a trailered car awaiting intercooler set up? I've not seen the covers before

I have rear lights and speedlines (maybe steering wheel too - decissions :-/)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RARE-1994-Volkswagen-Corrado-VR6-210-BHP-12-MOT-Bargain-/111574696261?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item19fa5ec145

So after all that waffle on pistonheads the car remains unsold and the seller is now dreaming of a big payday and will consider offers over £1K...... Oh well, at least the low prices keep the cars in the hands of enthusiasts rather than speculators

Its not good practice to disconnect the battery with the engine running TBH, the point I was making is the alternator will power the engine with a completely dead battery. A good alternator has the capacity to run the engine, all electric ancils and still have enough power to charge a depleted battery.

You want 12.6V accross the battery after the car has rested for a few hours. 14V ish with the engine running and under load - (lights HRW heater radio on etc) The exciter wire is also the dash charging light wire - does it light up when the ignition is on without the engine running? An engine once started will run with the battery disconnected if the alternator is working correctly. If the alternators brushes are worn they will skate on the slip rings arching and sparking, if you remove the brush pack and there's soot on the shortest of the brushes they're worn out and need re[lacing. Check all the battery, engine earth and starter connections for cleanliness and security as well as the main alternator cable to battery connections. If the engine once running cuts out and refuses to restart its either the alternator or wiring connections IMO

The bloke selling the car would be the last person I'd listen to about future or previous price increases of a prospective investment Work to live (not live to work!), who wants to be the richest man in the graveyard?

10 pence millionaires, paranoia over a door handle on a £1K 20+ year old car FFS

10L sounds a lot! Read the bottle, usually mixtures stronger than 50% lead to increased running temps. I usually drain and flush with a hose before draining again. Pour in one full bottle of coolant, fill that bottle with water and pour that in. Use the empty bottle to mix coolant and water to 50% and pour that in. Keep doing this until the expansion bottle is full, start the engine and run it up to temp with the cap off, top up with mixed coolant as necessary. There will be some water left in the system from the flush, this ensures the mixture in the engine is less than 50% coolant / water recommended by the manufacturer. Other colder countries may differ. You could always have the mixture checked at a local garage using a coolant tester to test the freezing point of the mixture.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=1474396&mid=0&nmt=RE%3A+Shed+Of+The+Week%3A+VW+Corrado+VR6

http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/volkswagen/corrado/volkswagen-corrado-vr6-------------------1992/3244727

I thought driver awareness courses were for people just over the speed limit? Hopefully just 3 points and a fine :)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vw-Corrado-Vr6-/171634995764?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27f63e3234 Not mine

Its 7 / 8 years since I last had it, 7 - 10 days to get over the worst then similar again to recover fully. I car share so germs get passed around, coughs and colds are the norm, but this is very different

It took around 3 weeks to fully shake off my flu last month (only one week off work though), just walking to the kitchen to make a drink would have me soaked in sweat. Paracetamol and drinking plenty fluids is about all you can do for the symptoms :(