Dox
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Content Count
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Everything posted by Dox
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Chain on R32 engines ? (not corrado related - more passat)
Dox replied to Mawrick's topic in Engine Bay
You can view cam timing (and therefore chain stretch) using VCDS /vagcom, from memory for the R32 its measuring blocks 208 and 209. Some golfs around 2003 had faulty upper chains that snapped at very low mileages -
If it has spark and fuel the next thing I'd check is compression followed by timing. Check the main air pipe from the maf to throttle body and the breather pipe attached to it at are not split, check connections in the maf, the coolant temp sensor and lambda for good connections and cleanliness
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I think I'll stick to Vaseline around my ring. My MK2 did this, the ring and its wiper are both brass, brass on brass without lubrication creates swarf, sparks from the contact area caused a small piece of brass swarf to weld itself to the wiper on the column causing the scratching noise, a light rub of the brass wiper with wet or dry paper and a smear of my chosen lubricant and all was good again.
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Often its the horn ring on the rear of the steering wheel, remove the wheel, deburr and smear with a little grease or vaselene
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-CORRADO-2-9-VR6-1991-1995-Fan-Drive-Belt-/291005195654?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item43c142e586
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Don't leave the bearing too long, I've got Grimmys old storm in the garage, engine cooked due to the seizure of the bearing in the tensioner, the plastic pulley melted to the bearing and massive over heating - coolant sprays out of the spark plug holes when cranked.
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Mine does the same with just 10L approx of fuel left in the tank, on left turns exiting a roundabout the engine goes low on fuel before recovering once on the straight again. I can only get 40L max in the tank too (VR6 70L tank). Its on my to do list.
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£900 + £20 shipping
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The problem with just replacing the rectifier / regulator / brush pack is that the slip rings on the rotor are worn and scored, so they'll grind away the soft new brushes in short order. So its better to find a local reconditioner to supply and fit front and rear bearings, slip rings and brush pack, you've then got an as good as new unit for around £80 - £90. If the brushes are worn to there limits they'll have a coating of soot on the ends where they've been sparking against the slip rings
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Back in the day the bulb on the dash was used to excite the alternator into operation, if the bulb blew the alternator failed to charge. I suspect the VR6 is self exciting and shouldn't rely on the bulb, but you never know when the bulb is replaced it may begin work normally again. Oil pressure will depend on viscosity and temperature, the gauges work off voltage so erratic charging may affect there readings too.
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New, recon or used callipers? Do the hand brake levers return to there stops when the hand brake is released? Are the cables themselves free moving (not partially seized)? Did you clean up the carriers and apply a little copper slip?
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I think people use MK2s?
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Its not easy, days off end up half over by the time you package and book couriers etc. Requests for part numbers and pics have you up and down like a yoyo, 5 times one Saturday evening saw me clambering into the garage loft and not one sale from it in the end....... Its not easy money for sure
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Bleed it. The slave is the dead end of the hydraulic system, if the seals are passing the fluid leaks on the floor via the gearbox bellhousing. If there is no external fluid leaks the slave is hydraulically ok If the master cylinder seals are leaking the fluid passes them returning to the reservoir feed above the brake master cylinder.
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http://www.corrado-club.ca/mods/schrick.html
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http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=87395 Post 4 states you don't need a control box, you can wire it direct to the ecu
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I suppose the first thing to do is check the vacuum side is fitted correctly and the controller is present?
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You can get copies http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Pressure-0-10-bar-M10x1-Sender-Unit-replaces-VDO-unit-Two-Post-/371042081669?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5663d4db85 Make sure you buy 10mm x 1mm thread though
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Ignition Fuelling Compression Timing The above is what's needed for an engine to run (if it has all 4 it should run, it might not run very well but it should run). When you have a non start you need to find what you have and what's missing and go from there. The time to test for the above is when the engine wont start
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An ignition misfire tends to be quite violent, unburnt fuel in the hot exhaust will ignite and back fire. Fuelling misfires tends to be softer, more gentle, but if its massively over fuelling the petrol will also ignite in the hot exhaust. Check for a spark at the plugs when it wont start, I'd compression test the engine to confirm all's well with it before spending on ignition and fueling parts
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When you try to start when hot does the engine crank over but fail to start or does it fail to crank full stop?
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He's not had it long http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-VR6-/181442838750?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2a3ed600de
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Teething problems are similar to a snagging list, small problems to over come to make things as they should be or as you want them to be.
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VR should be late, however these cars are 20 years old and who knows what's been fitted since they left the factory? Looking at the side of the front bumper at the swage line near the top edge, early bumpers turn towards the wheel arch, late continue straight and peter out to nothing