fendervg

Cheers Jim.

Yeah, I'd agree that the temperatures sound normal, so no need to worry. To get a better reading it would be an idea to put VCDS on and look at the coolant temp that is read from the blue ECU sender. I don't really trust the clocks that much. Mine sit between 80-90 degrees coolant, with a lot of variation, and 95-110 degrees oil depending on how hard you are driving. The problem is that there are simply so many parts to the coolant system - radiator, water pump, auxiliary pump, thermostat, fans etc. - that it's hard to pin point something without replacing the lot. I get that VW might have changed the thermostat to regulate the temp by restricting flow to a different base temperature, but I can't see it being that accurate, and I'd say on a VR, once the stat is open it stays open and temperature variations are controlled by radiator airflow and the fans, but I could be wrong.

The thermostat doesn't have anything to do with the the temperature gauge - it doesn't supply it with a signal or anything, this comes from one of the 3 sensors in the thermostat housing, and I don't think the design of those has changed. The thermostat is simply a one way valve that opens at a pre-set temperature to send the coolant round the longer cooling circuit via the radiator once the engine has warmed up. It is possible to get ones that open at lower than standard temperatures - details of those are at the beginning of this thread - but are usually not recommended for standard running conditions. I'd say the tendency of more modern clusters to "normalise" the temperature readings is a function built into the gauges themselves.

I'd say repair as well - you can still get replacement doors from VW Classic Parts as well.

I'd agree with the above - I bought mine with 36K on it about 9 years ago, and while the interior and body felt and looked great (nearly new), the car has had its fair share of mechanical issues, including all the usual Corrado points of failure. I've had to replace all the suspension and bushes, brakes, lots of engine sensors and most of the cooling system. Age will catch up with all of these cars, plastic goes brittle and rubber perishes and metal seizes - a car that's been used consistently is far more likely to have items fixed and replaced over the years and be in better running condition.

Hey Jim - please put me down for 2 sets if you are getting these done up again. Cheers.

Looks good. I think even with the G4 stuff the key is in the preparation before you apply it - otherwise it won't last and it's expensive juice!

Yeah, as above - they were a safety/crash protection feature required by US regulations. Can be seen in this diagram: http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/USA/modell/COR/year/1994/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/857/subcategory/164000/part_id/3691849/lang/e

If it's a US spec car it would have had knee bars fitted.

Later clocks were post-92, found in VR6s, 2.0 16v and 8v and have red indicator needles and a single multi-plug connector at the back without mechanical drive for the speedo. There may be some other differences, but it's been a while since I've seen an early car.

For the back of the clocks, this is the backlight for the MFA and mileage - part# 4A0919040C. 12V, 1.1W - they've got a little hexagonal base cap. two of these. For the clock lights from above - part# 357919243B, 12V,1.8W - blue square base, three of these. The dealer should be able to get these, otherwise they are also available on fleabay and Amazon - the German sites are usually quite good. Once again, this is for a late type cluster - the older ones use a different 1.1W bulb with a black rectangular wedge shaped base. These are the two you need:

This is for a late set of clocks: 1. Very carefully prise off the two plastic screw covers in the two bottom corners of the black fascia trim, a small instrument flat driver is best, the clips break very easily. Remove both screws 2. There are two recessed screws at the top of this panel, if you feel around with your finger you'll find them. Remove the screws and fascia trim will slide out. 3. The instrument binnacle unit is held in at each side by a large cross-head screw - a long screwdriver is best here, or if you remove some of the switches on the left and the dash vent on the right, it's much easier, but this shouldn't be necessary. Two rubbber feet hold it in at the bottom on each side. 4. Tilt the unit towards you and lift and it will come loose. Remove the multi-pin connector at the back. 5. Now you can remove the whole unit. You will see two small cross-heads on each side just below the mounting points, these hold the clear cover on, when this is removed, the three bulbs at the top will be visible. Unscrew the bulbs by twisting anti-clockwise a quarter turn, or carefully use a needle nose pliers if they are stiff. Once the unit is out, all the bulbs can be replaced easily. When refitting the cover be careful that you have the push buttons for the clock setting and the mileage reset properly positioned as you align it, it clips in place at the bottom and pushes back down.

The speedo is lit by 3 bulbs with a square blue base in the top of the housing with green film over them. You'll need to remove the clear plastic cover off the front of the clocks, as they screw in from inside. The back lighting for MFA and milometer on the late clocks is two bulbs accessed from the back.

Good advice there to wire the warning lamp back up. Then clear all the faults in VCDS, take for a drive and re-scan. It could be a fault in the pump, but ABS is usually designed to fail open so that you retain mechanical braking in an emergency.

Hmm - I don't use mine any more as I just use an iPhone with a Nokia bluetooth unit now. I think there were two different ones for Corrados, one early and one late, so make sure you have the right version. I'd recommend loosening the mounting screws on the centre console while fitting it, or else something is likely to break.

Looks good. Can we do a deal? Would be postage to Dublin, Ireland.

Cheers. Let me know when you have had a chance to look and we can sort something out.

Would anyone have a late Corrado ABS light switch, part# 535 919 235 AA? Has to be that number unfortunately, it's got an 8-pin loom connector, although only 5 contacts are used. I think it's just the bulb has blown, as it was working fine before I had it out to do the heater matrix, and it won't light up when I send 12v through it. Does anyone know what type of bulb it would be? I suppose I could try and solder in a new one then, but a bit reluctant as I don't want to wreck it. Cheers.

They can warp with the heat over time - not expensive, so I'd just get a new one, and don't over tighten the two securing nuts or it will crack. It's a stupid design anyway - I can't see why the rad doesn't just have an inlet pipe moulded on to it.

Managed to sort this without having to take the whole heater box out. Stripped enough of it to be able to check the position of the flap lever and the flap inside with the matrix still in place and then unclipped the cable on the control side, adjusted and then clipped it again. It turns out the flap is fully down when the dial is at 11 O'clock position to direct the air upwards, so this is with the cable fully pushed forwards.

Have just been in the process of refitting my heater matrix, only to discover that the flap that diverts air up for demisting the windscreen appears now to be stuck or is not operating correctly - what a pain! I had kept the controls attached to the heater box and checked them before refitting, but now the direction dial won't move past 8 O'clock - it moves freely all the way to the right. Unfortunately the demist position is the one you need the most. Does anyone know, or can check, what position this flap should be in when the dial is at 11 O'clock? I'm hoping to get enough access to maybe troubleshoot this without taking everything back out and opening the heater box again.

Just checked with VW here, deleted without replacement. But sometimes there will be some new old stock hanging around the dealer network. The hunt is on.....

What can happen with the slave is that the protective boot around the actuating rod can split, which means it will weep around the internal piston seal very slightly and into the bell housing. This can cause the clutch symptoms above and a very gradual loss of fluid without leaking out on to the ground completely.

Ah ok. Might be worth trying VAG or TPS. I have a few sources in Germane I can try as well and will let you know how I get on. Did you ask Heritage?

Did you try adjusting it?