_Matt_

HI, Anyone know much about these upgrades? My car came with it. There is a big receipt (£900 in parts) supporting the rear upgrade and that seems a lot of money to spend on rear brakes. Want to make a decision on what is worth keeping and getting rid of. On the rears anyone know if it is possible to fit a smaller diameter brake set up and keep whatever the benefits are - suppose any mk4 rear disc set up should fit but would they fit under a 15in speedline? At the moment I have it on 16in speedlines but it needs a 20mm+ spacer at the back to fit over the caliper and I'm not really into that - just want a fast road setup without spacers and 30mm max lowering and tyres well away from arches to avoid paint damange. It's a similar story up front - it has Brembo 4pot 305s but needs a massive spacer to clear wheel and the tyre is borderline MOT fail on current camber setup. Will probably sell them on, a shame as discs/pads and calipers are like new, and going to a 288 setup as I want to be able to fit 15in speedlines sometimes. I am sure they would fit under a 17 or a different 16. If there are advantages I am not seeing do say. I'm unlikley to track the car and I'm the type of driver that will have a few mins of fun down a favourite B raod and then revert back to cruising i.e it will never see an hour of abuse. Cheers Matt

Isn't that where the heated rear screen goes and then last row is heated seats? Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Looks like Recaro front seats - would need a pic of the controls to confirm corrado. The whole interior looks like it has been retrimmed as the door cars don't look like that from factory + it's a mk3 golf right?

Nice work. Re the torque if you have the 12 sided nut it is the lower figure for torque spec. The higher figure is for the 6 point nut and washer setup Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Cheers Cressa, I'll get my head around mine and get some pics up. I found a Davia wiring diagram in the glovebox - I need to learn how to properly read these types of things (i can scan and send it to anyone who needs it btw). I bought the mk3 switch as saw on ebay at the weekend however I don't think i have anywhere to put it as this car has heated seats. Will double check. Haven't given the car a great deal of attention yet as have been getting rid of all other cars (success - all gone now 🙂 )

Thanks mate - i'm sorted now

Thanks Hasan 🙂I will look for the control valve. The previous owner fitted an alloy radiator and I believe deleted the parts that were behind the rad at the same time - i think it is the air dryer that is missing (that's what I thought/was calling a radiator). These are the bits I have immediately seen in the engine bay that i think relate to the air con. Couldn't get a pic of the condenser. That pipe in my hand I assume goes from condenser to dryer

Thanks! haha yes it didn't take long. I missed it when it was gone and the other two cars I had just didn't seem as special on their own. Plus this one was a good price considering what it is spec'd and came with: almost everything I ever wanted aside from a Schrick!

Ideally nice condition but will take one that needs retrimming. Must have the 1-2-3-4-5-R logo

Didn't last long - bought another one. Twilight Violet VR6. It's a project but came with a lot of parts that made it difficult to say no to. Also sold my mk3 16v and mk2 16v this week and now down to 1 old car which is where I plan to stay. Will do a members ride thread to document progress. I drove a mk2 16v 2 weeks ago and was a bit underwhelmed and it felt more archaic than I really wanted (cable clutch, driving postition not particularly sporty like a corrado). Long story short I didn't feel a mk2 16v was "good enough" to be my only old weekend hobby car. I did look at other cars but not alot fitted my requirements - 4 useable seats, manual, 6 cylinders, not a generic hatchback. Yeah Corroads have their headache with parts but nothing is perfect in life.

Hi, Cressa I think you and perhaps fla have air con on your cars? I bought myself a project - twilight violet VR6 - and found it has air con installed. I've done a search and seen it's a mix of black magic to understand how it works and that there is a place in Surrey that could perhaps be a place to get it going again. As far as I can see "all" i am missing is the radiator and buttons in the cabin but just wanted to check with you guys on what you have in the car. I can see -relay box next to fan control -compressor under alternator -a disconnceted pipe that looks like it probably ran from the radiator and compressor -a sensor in the air box on the scuttle Is there anything else I should have? Wondering whether it is worth trying to save the install or strip it out if I am missing crucial bits. Cheers!

Cleaned up nice that side too. Nice painting :) Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Late to the chat but done this job 4 times in the last year and it's 1 circlip and bearing pushes against the lip on the knuckle/race. Think you've got there but just chipping in to give confidence. Mk2 set up is diff with circlip each end. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Nice work Cressa. I had heard the same about powdercoating eventually flaking off and rusting but did have some parts done myself. Next time i do anything like this wont do powdercoating and instead blast and use an enamel based chassis paint. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

I found this link on someone trying to do something similar https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/who-can-help-me-wire-a-three-wire-sunroof-motor-to-a-six-wire-connector.842295/#post-7786497 Guide (copied): How to use a 3-wire sunroof motor where a 6-wire is original: You will need some wire, female spade connectors, a ring terminal, a DPDT momentary-contact toggle switch, and some solder. First, take a 4-inch piece of wire and put a spade connector on one end and the ring terminal on the other end. Connect the spade connector of this wire to the male spade connector on the brown wire of the motor and connect the ring terminal to to a chassis ground (one of the screws which hold the motor cover on will do). OK, now on the DPDT switch you will notice six terminals. You want to connect the opposite diagonal terminals to each other. That is, one terminal at one end to one terminal at the other end, but not straight across, it has to be the one diagonally across. I did this by soldering two 'very' short pieces of wire across the terminals. Also attach a 4-inch wire to each of the two terminals at ONE end of the switch and to each of the two terminals in the center of the switch. On the wires now coming from the center of the switch, attach a spade connector the free ends of the wires. The other two wires attached to the switch need to have have their free ends stripped of insulation for about 3/16-inch. You should solder these bare ends and flatten them with a pliers. Insulate the terminals on the back of the switch well and then connect the two spade connectors on this new switch to the two remaining wires on the motor. The other two wires on the switch will connect to the car's wiring harness at the 6-pin connector that went to your old motor. Insert one wire into the socket for the brown wire and insert the other wire into the socket for the red wire with the white stripe. Finally, remove the original sunroof switch from the motor cover and fabricate a small mounting plate for the new switch. It should fit very nicely in the opening where the original switch was.

Later cars came with 6 pin motors btw, which explains what you've purchased

Sounds like you may need an earlier 3 pin motor - is there a part no on the motor in the car? PN 357877795 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284911390870?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjw_YShBhAiEiwAMomsEGwJvUJhH5nGyfAHHBMrQ125N90lXmmjeHBe1h7SDTOKL2MTHsSb7RoC3vAQAvD_BwE

I think if you don't need to sell hold off until the economic environment improves. You're in a tricky spot selling now - hardly anyone wants a cat rated car, unless it is dirt cheap, corrados have a very small market at the best of times and most people are holding on to their cash for though times. Otherwise the price needs to be around 6k to attract a buyer in the current market and because of the cat status. I 100% agree that your car is likely to have had less bodywork than most renovated cars but it is what it is :( Probably not what you wanted to hear. Bear in mind corrados do tend to sit on the market for weeks or months. Auction is usually the best place to sell them but not sure of cat rated ones will get the bidding war needed to secure a great price. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

oh dear on that door - I believe the part number for the panel you would want is 535809839A https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/volkswagen-535809427-side-panel-inner/mpn/535809427 item 10 on the picture within the link. It looks like it can still be bought from some outlets https://www.shopdap.com/535809839a-vw-audi.html

Great win James and must be satisfying to get this far with all the challenges you've faced.

Nothing to worry about on the rust - it is just surface rust where the factory stonechip has been damaged over the years, likely by 4 post lift attachments. Easily DIY fixable by - 1) wire wheel rusty bit back to bare metal. Get as much af the surface rust off as possible. 2) apply some rust converter to neutralise the bits you can't get rid of with the wire wheel - Hydrate80 or Krust - you might have something different in Norway. It's a blue liquid that turns black. 3) Apply a zinc or epoxy based primer to area worked on. 2 coats is enough 4) Use a product like Gravitex or similar to brush on stonechip paint. This is thicker stuff similar to what was used from the factory. You can leave it there or apply some body colour paint on top. As for the lower engine picture the rust you see on the control arms and subframe is also superficial. You can drop the subframe and wishbones and get them sandblasted and powdercoated for a clean finish or you can just spray on a product like Lanoguard to stop it from getting any worse. Powdercoating does look nice but everything on cars rots inside out so all you're doing is making something look pretty for your mechanic. That said I have carried out powdercoating on my cars because i liked the clean look and work on them myself. Edit to add - whilst talking rust protection - do consider using cavity spray wax on all cavites and box sections to protect the car from rusting inside out.

Good luck with bringing it back and keep us posted with progress. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

How do the rear seats fair compared to the Corrado for kids? I've always liked the mk1 TT. I'm 5ft10 so not going to have the front seat reclined that far. Could you do say a school run with 2 kids (one in the front and one behind?). Struggling to find a corrado replacement with 4 seats, 6 cyl engine, manual, coupe-esque. 996 of course, another corrado or ..

Very nice and red and grey combo goes lovely. How is the Storm? Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Cheers Shaun. It was very easy in the end - I had psyced myself up for months of waiting as that seems to be the way with what you see on ebay etc. Classix don't even advertise in those places so I was a bit aprehensive that a buyer might not even find the car. I'm keeping my mk2 now so still have that to keep me ticking over. The Corrado doubt set in after Silverstone last year - I was showing the Corrado on the club stand but there was an oak green mk2 16v in the general paddock area and it just stood out to me more than any other car there. I think what I need to do is just get something else newer and have 1 old VW to keep the balance overall. It wasn't fun at times to have 3 old cars that I was working on and unable to achieve the results I wanted for all of them becuase of time and money. I do hanker for a mk4 R32 but it would need to be done - chains, great history and body, c70-80ish and something I can i just service and use. I work from home and have no need for a daily car (have the family car for that and a small run around for parking in places like stations/tesco) and feel it is possibly my last chance to have a big 6 cyl engine in a small car as a semi daily car that I can be enthusiastic over too. I definitely don't want a project where i have to do body, paint, close to 5 figure bills for for refresh work at Stealth etc. Otherwise it's probably going to be a Golf GTI clubsport / performance pack but 4cyl turbo is where I will likely end up after a R32 so feels that feels like it is now or never and doubt i'd loose money on it if i buy right in the first place.