_Matt_

Good point - hot, post 88 degrees coolant the issues appear now, though before the blue sensor was changed it was from cold too. Engine temp gets to 98 degrees before fans kick in which is what makes me think stage 1 is not happening as believe that should happen at c95 degrees off of the rad sensor. I had a read of the cooling guide on here and concluded it was probably the rad sensor. Readouts on VCDS are stable, lambda swings around 1 for example, idle is 680 when it's behaving. Throttle body angle seems reasonable. This is the car running normally, on warm up, no problems - it does have a miltek sports cat and miltek resonated exhaust as the only modifcation https://photos.app.goo.gl/qDvYGX2qaEKNQjWi6 This is it a few mins later after a fault code appears, shame i didn't capture vcds screen. Can do it again if helpful to see https://photos.app.goo.gl/BEKYyUV6fDP6YEHf9

Battery new and always on trickle charge too + is charging fine off alternator (13.7-14.2v i see)

Hi all, I'm trying to get the car ready for Cosford 35th but am getting intermiitent fault codes on VCDS lite. I first had the blue ecu sensor which I replaced, now I get the MAF (early 5 pin on this car), clear it off and then I get the Lambda etc and the cycle continues. My thinking is that not all these sensors are at fault and perhaps I have an earthing issue affecting the whole system? VCDS also can't connect to the ABS controller but I don't have the ABS light on (it comes on and goes off as normal on start up). I've also lost my oil readout on the dash too, that connector looks particular green though and needs a clean up. Symptons when fault codes appear - wants to stall but doesn't i.e coming up to junctions or reving from idle, idle will drop to 500rpm if stationery. Clear the codes and it all goes back to normal! Any ideas? Also lost stage 1 fan but am awaiting on a new sensor to see if that fixes it. Stage 2 works. I'm trying to avoid replacing sensors for the sake of it. Also have tried unplugging MAF and car stalls straight away - i remember doing similar analysis on my old car and it used to still run with MAF disconnected. If i disconnect the Throttle position sensor with MAF connected the idle rises to 1000rpm and it runs fine. Oh also i've checked the vacuum lines visually, all good, including the two green bungs under the waterpump area. I have cleaned out and bench tested the ISV. Cleaned out the throttle body at the same time. Inspected the intake boot and swapped with a spare too. Car is going to Stealth end of August for chains and clutch but would be nice to solve before. The car is is all original and not messed with in anyway but hasn't been used much at all since 2005, perhaps 500 miles a year since then. Still has VW coil pack too. The car has always had these issues since buying it. Cheers

Pm me your no and I'll add you. Got to be 20 or so of us over this way.

Yeah power wise they work on movement. I'm just not convinced I've done the heated seat part right but have no other spaces on my fusebox to slot them in. I have another corrado in my garage, which I tool the loom from, however the layout across the top of the fuse box is completely different!

I might get Vince to take a look but to be fair ill never use the heated part anyway. Car is going end of summer for chains and now I've had vcds lite there are some other gremlins as it wants to stall now and again - lambda, maf intermittent. Blue ECU which I've replaced.

No worries I have left it for now. The tilt and height are always live - I've followed a guide and plugged into a red block at the back of fuse box and earthed to the earth ring behind headlight switch. The heated seat part only appears to heat with the engine running but the relays click on second ignition when rotating the switch to turn on. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Autodoc is pretty good - can get Lemforder from there Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Cheers Cressa. Would be good to know and my wiring is different to how it came out of my parts car (both cars still in garage) and infact the layout across the top of the fuse box is different in both cars. I ran the seats with engine running today and they did get warm - do they not run on ignition only? Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

And just to confirm this is where I've plugged them in (only slots available) The heated seat switch on dash is always illuminated and relays click. Seats done appear to heat up though.

Hi all, thread resurrection. I'm putting the heated seat loom in the new corrado but my fuse box layout is different to the pics - trying to figure out which is TV8 and TV5. I only have 2 spare connections on the top row and if I plug in the switch illuminates and relays click but just want to be sure it's a free for all on where I plug the green and grey in?

A friend did it with the beam on car. You are able to detach the brake lines and let that system hang in the air too. However he put poly bushes in and I would imagine it being awkward to try and press in the oem bushes with the beam hanging & if you've got as far as to allow movement with brake lines you'd may as well take the whole lot off?

Moved Just so you know there is a chap on the facebook corrado club gb group who get sunroof repair kits manufactured. He's called Kieran Rado and makes batches on and off so would need to get your name on the waiting list if was an option you wanted to take.

Welcome Mark, nice purchase. Putting 2 and 2 together I take it you're the recent joiner on the whatsapp/East England group 🙂

My pet hate is people damaging other people's stuff :( There is something about older cars that attract damage. Do people look down on them as cheap old rubbish? My wife inherited a Y reg Corsa C with just 10k on the odo and it's been door dinged twice already and we both make sure to park away from others. Whilst your C is road parked id agree its not worth fixing up the body however it is a balance to not detract the ownership experience for yourself too. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Lanoguard is pretty good as a clear covering or ACF 50 Import is good way to go too. Also saves on expensive road tax on say a mk5 r32 or I bet R36 if they were available in the UK - c£200 per year vs c£700 for UK registered cars. Corrado is looking lovely Chris. Just looking back at brakelines, did you make those or buy in? I've messaged a guy on here but not if still active. I can do it but I don't think i have the eye to make them as perfect as yours.

I'm not sure, on the ClubGTI forum there is a guy called Rubjonny who knows his onions on this type of stuff. Stick a post up there?

Yep same here - they can be hit or miss and they stock crappy pattern parts too. I bought a load of stuff from Classics, got stung on an import charge but when I looked at the bill i wasn't actually charged VAT on my purchase in Germany and the charge was 25% inc a handling fee. Didn't think that was that bad really. I believe bulky parts can be an issue with excessive handling charges though. Another place to try for mechancial bits is AVS Spares in Norfolk (online mail order). Easy to use website and and if you contact him with a part number he can get parts for you - helpful chap.

I missed that but you're probably right Dox!

Watched last night, enjoyed the episode. Not sure the parts prices were realistic or the value used to "trade back" old knackered parts at £700 either. Entertainment none the less anyway.

Cheers Hasan, will try and keep things in check on this one and do only what is needed. I have booked it into Stealth end of summer (earliest booking - they are busy) for the chains and clutch (heavy pedal - the main motivation to do the job). Also requested a tune whilst it is there so I guess the gate has started to open on mods... I did consider a more local place I've heard good reviews of but decided to stick with what I know and there is the potential for 263s and a head refurb whilst it is there... if it needs it.. did like that mod last time.

Immediate Plans Make the project/part Corrado financially viable by selling off what I don't want and moving it on as a reasonbly priced project otherwise I'll be forced to break it. The new Corrado has very heavy clutch so will get chains and clutch done as the first job. At the moment I am debating leaving the car as standard as possible and unlike my white one not replacing parts of the sake of it. It does currently have a brand non res miltek and sports cat though my other corrado came with a spare resonated miltek section which I could swap over to quieten things down. I did have 263 cams in my last one and I can feel the difference however I don't drive that hard much of the time so verdict is still out. Stock suspension rides incredibly well on our roads. Possibly me eyes but this car (93/94) does not sit as silly high as my last one did at the rear on stock suspension (late 95 car). I have a Recaro interior to fit and the oil volt dials to figure out. The MOT man said the rear beam was looking rusty and it's bushes are tired. I have a spare axle to build up off the car so will do that as well this year.

Corrado Number 2 Or 4 actually in ownership count. I had seen the car advertised on Facebook but was so disheartened from other cars I had viewed that I discarded it without even looking at it. Later the owner and I were trading some parts and by chance I gave him an incorrect wiring loom for a leather interior so went up to see him to swap over looms. I saw the Corrado and it had virtually none of the issues I had expected and it was a very nice car at a very fair price. 91k, VW and specialist annual servicing from 1994 - 2021, a long term owner between 2005-2021 and all original. The car had sat for over a year out of MOT as the previous owner had picked up abother dream car. I could see the car had some bush and brake line type MOT advisories so I asked for it to be MOTd and if it passed I'd buy it... it did pass.. so I picked it up on Sunday. It does have 2 areas of the rust - see pics - little scab on the wing and a scab in side in the fuel door area. I will get these fixed with new metal before they get worse. The car was resprayed in 2009, for £2350 inc VAT - how times have changed - and came with old style photos to show windows out, back to metal in areas. The paint is excellent in my eyes, just some swirl marks to polish out. No imperfections under my LED garage lights. It had new window and trim rubbers all round back in 2009. I felt confident if the paint had lasted this long and still looked good it must have been a decent job too.

Hi, Starting a thread to document progress now I am back with a Corrado(s). Background: Sold the white Corrado, missed it after a few weeks. Sold mk2 and mk3 on (don't miss at all a month later so right decision then). I looked at a few "highly" priced examples but wasn't happy with the bodyworks or history (i.e no chains etc). Decided, sod it, will buy a project and sort it out myself. Que Corrado number 1. A Twilight Violet Corrado VR6 appeared on eBay as a project but came with a lot of parts nice parts as well as the original parts to put it back to stock. She looks rough but had 107k on and I thought man maths that I could sell the parts I didn't want and put towards renovating the car. The only sticking point for me with the car was that it had zero history. It needs the jacking point welding and a repair to the top of the windscreen + a repaint. The trim rubbers are nice though and the parts meant I couldn't refuse the car as it means I've managed to get some parts I had always wanted (oil volt dials, recaro interior and a few other bits). I had psyched myself up to get rid of what I didn't want and start to sort the bodywork.

Ohh I see, cheers for explaining, I can see the push connector you mean - it's that one with the thin red wire in my pic I reckon. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk