_Matt_

Nice looking car with some great effort put in. Worth every penny! Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Same here 10w40 semi synth. Interestingly though, a Bosch Garage who I got service my old one also suggested 5w40 when they searched too but I asked them to put 10w40 in.

The wheels have turned out epic! Wow. Good luck with future endeavours. I've always fancied giving couring a go one day. My step dad retired from the police at 50 and does a day a week for a fruit and veg place. Can be tough but being out and about, preferably not during rush hour, seems a nice place to get some exercise and some freedom. Be careful with the speed limits is the only take away I have. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

oh no sorry to hear. Hope you've managed to find another job? Either way a I hope it becomes just a minor blip in your life and things get back on the straight and narrow soon. Appreciate it must have been dark times 😞

Hi Andrew, I am not sure on answers but have a regulator handy here for pics so thought i'd share. I've never replaced before but did have a stuck passenger window. A few taps of the motor with a hammer whilst cycling up and down the button got it free'd up and it's been as good as gold since.

I'm interested in info on stock springs. I'm wanting to refresh my car and perhaps leave it stock but don't want to end up with the later lofty ride height. I'm pretty sure mine is earlier style as doesn't appear to be as high (early 94 car, 5 pin maf, 90mm splitter). I havent come across the part no on OPs post before so perhaps they are the earlier style spring, I have seen 357411105A mentioned for Corrado VR6 on parts diagrams which is perhaps the later spring. Anyone know anything about the rears? I had thought before reading this thread that is was the rears vw raised on later cars but perhaps not the case. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Great milestone. You're on the home straight now Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

I'm dragging up an old thread as I try and work out whether I want to stay stock or go mild lowering and sell off my wheels (speedline 16s, bbs 16s nothing as nice RSs). Chris - cheers for the text the otherday on the front spings. I live rural and did feel I slightly ruined my last corrado by lowering it. Yes it looked nice but I lost the supple ride that ultimately made it rattle less and it was quicker down a country lane on stock suspension. I had eibachs and bilsteins last time, eventually switched out the eibachs to H&R which improved the ride on harsh bumps. All bushes were new on the old car, but it was never as good a it was on stock suspension to drive. Yandards post interested me as I had heard similar elsewhere: rear springs were changed on later cars to increase height. I thought it was something to do with pedestrain crash safety but maybe not. Anyway I like the way early cars sit and mine being a L/94 and I guess early at that as I have the old style 5 pin MAF and was just researching to see if I could find out what would identify the rear springs as being the "lower" stock version? I looked at parts diagrams and only see two springs listed for the Corrado 1H55 1111 5K https://www.autodoc.co.uk/spares-search?keyword=1H55 1111 5K&supplier[1]=32 and 191511115F https://www.autodoc.co.uk/spares-search?keyword=191511115F&supplier[1]=32. The part 191 is of course mk2 era and relates to the early G60 and 16v. As those cars are the ones that "sit" right out the box I'm wondering if anyone has tried those rear springs on a VR6? I can't work out if the front is also higher on a VR6 vs the early cars. Probably not a consideration most have thought about but perhaps some posters have in this thread. Looking at specs for those two springs it seems the 191.. springs are 309mm long vs the 1H55.. springs are 338mm long so may well be onto something however can't find any similar difference in spring height on the front springs for either early or late corrados to match that difference on the rear5..11115F191511115F191511115F I might buy a set and try them for size. For me a vr6 set at the same height as say an early Corrado https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1991-volkswagen-corrado-g60-1 with factory comfort and damping would be perfect. My current corrado does seem to sit slightly lower at the back vs my last one however it could just be the colour difference decieving my eyes. Neither of mine sit as nicely as that collecting cars g60 though.

Cheers Shaun, i'm pretty sure it's the drivers track assembly as there is so much vibration in it when turned. I'll do a mini front end refresh over next couple of months. Interestingly I did manage to get the camber spot on both sides with my digital spirit level and some heath robinson style sockets taped to a bit of metal laid across the alloy to clear tyre. Yet to take it for a drive though.

Chris where did you find your oem springs? My car has the same colours and had a look on vw classics by part no without success. I am debating staying stock and at a stage where i need to buy some parts.

Nice one Fen, must admist never taken it apart but good to see it documented as no doubt will have to. Q how much play should there be on the wiper arms in there rest position? Mine have a good 2cm of slop.

I'll probably leave it I think. There are few components that could do with replacing and makes sense to tackle as 1 job with 1 alignment. One outer track rod I can't even make out where the locking nut ends and track rod begins even after wire brushing etc...doubt it can be adjusted plus the outer (or inner) make a lot of noise like dry rubber (see vid), can feel it resonate strongly in the entire track rod arm. Tbh I am touch an go whether I want to drive it great distance. https://youtube.com/shorts/bXcS2gno9Io

Hi, No is probably the answer as I've never been able to achieve shock off without basic tracking afterwards. Q - so assuming the camber is set by the two bolts at the bottom of the shock into the knuckle. Tracking/toe off of the track rods. If I don't touch the track rods and put the camber back to where it was pre shock removal is there any chance I can get away without have the car tracked afterwards? Never achieved it in the past with a bubble spirit level to set camber however I have recently purchase a digital spirit level to 2dp. Debating whether to change top mounts before Cosford but if it's not going to be possible to get it back together without tracking I'll leave it. Cheers

Very tidy!

Hi Fen, is this any good:

Cheers will read up. I do get the light on occasionally now but all other issues with idle/stall are solved now with just giving it a good drive and using the revs.

Good to know - wrong assumption to make on mine then! I'll take it for a drive tomorrow and hopefully all will be normal with battery disconnect and relearn. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Good point, my blue ecu is a new sensor so was relying on the reading against the vr6 cooling guide but yes the rad will be different and does explain the variance. So it sounds like it is operating normally and I'm free for Cosford and hopefully safe in traffic. I've never heard stage 2 before, but read stage 3 you'd know about. My fans sound the same as any other car when they come on. If this is the case I'll leave this part and move on to the next job - top mounts, crunch and squeaky. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

So took the car out for a spanking and after an initial few want to stall moments early on in the journey it stopped doing it. The oil read out also came back too. Fans come on at 98 degrees still , i did install a new rad fan switch and also swapped over the fan control unti from my parts car. Perhaps reading too much data otherwise unknown to me with vcds constantly plugged in though I think fans came on at 96.6 when i came home - perhaps it just needs a good blast and get heat into it to burn stuff off in the engine bay. I'll take it out again tomorrow as you guys suggest just to get it moving. I wasn't able to peform the basic adaption bit of the ECU guide as only have the free version of VCDS. Fingers crossed anyway..

Cheers Fen, will have a read. Does point to car needing a drive really and reassess situ. I did the cam sensor on my last one, although I say stalling the car hasn't stalled yet, just acts as though it wants to.

Cheers Dox, will disconnect now. Interesting re Ghost codes - perhaps that was the MAF intermittent I saw as I did disconnect whilst engine was running but hadn't done anyhting with the lambda, though that has not appeared and perhaps was a hang over from when the prior owner fitted the sports cat, but i had disconnected the battery in my ownership so maybe that is wishful thinking!

I suppose I am reading the result of the ecu preventing a stall as the lambda reading was a second or so after the event. Just tested the damper on the TB and is working OK and comparable to the other corrado I have here (it's going today supposedly). So I need to take it out for a drive it seems then. I shall find some time to fit the rad fan sensor to try and get stage 1 working as believe that stage works solely off the rad sensor.

Also cleaned the maf with a maf spray from liquid moly. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

OK some testing tonight, 2 issues at play I reckon - screenshots are the fans, that is when they come on - 98 degrees so probable stage 1 isn't working. Tomorrow I will switch out the rad fan switch as it arrived today. I also swapped the coil pack and ignition leads over to a spare set - no changes and a touch worse actually on wanting to stall. The coil was a bosch unit on the car where as the replacement was a vw unit but made by some random company beginning with T. I also noted when the issues occurred- about 80 degrees, so assume that is when the lambda sets in. No fault codes tonight, oh and I also cleaned up all of the earth points (under battery, to block, to starter and 3 under behind isv). When the car wants to the stall the lambda reading drops as low as 0.83. It usually hovers close to 1 otherwise. Also it only wants to stall after giving it more than half throttle, if you rev it gently it doesn't do it. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Cheers Dox will investigate. It does pop between 1-2k rpm on throttle blips, i thought it was the sports cat increasing the popping. My last one did as well but not as loud on the standard cat, when the Miltek was fitted. Lambda of course could have been disturbed on wiring when the sports cat was fitted. The car probably needs a decent run but reluctant to do it at the moment.