Supercharged

That's normal I think - have you stuck the wheels on and sat it back on the ground?

Solenoids are more likely to stick in the warm weather... When it happens just take the red / black plug off the starter solenoid and check for 12V when the ignition is in the crank position - this rules out ignition switch / alarm wiring etc. I would just replace it though (the whole starter) if it's not been done in the last 5 years or so for peace of mind plus you can't bump a VR engine because of the chains.

No - it's for Air con I think.

Yep - £1 for 4 in Halfords and they are the same bolt front and rear.

Yep - as above to use the separate bearing setup you must use the flat top upper spring plates - this is why coilovers require the later top mounts.

When you remove the entire unit?? If so then you should really be disconnecting the battery before hand.

Belt is nice and easy to change, all you need is an M8 x 80mm bolt into the hole in the tensioner to de-tension then just fit the new one in place and wind the bolt back out - 5 min job! Emmisions - you need to get it on VAGCOM to see what's going on, maybe Lambda broken or wires too it because of rear engine mount failure

Ok, it's either where the wires go through the doors, especially if the foam buffer is not in place or inside the door there is a place where a red power wire is split in 2 with a butt connector - I have seen these break up a few times and suspect they get hot and the joint is broken, if you pull the plugs out you will find the loom goes a bit thick just before the loom Y's off to the two plugs for the Electric Windows and Central Locking.

Fuse 16 - Warning Light and Rear Spoiler

Hmmm they do change stuff with sensors (like the oil housing ones) so you have to modify the plugs but not heard anything with these... Does the part number match the old one? Pics would be good - new vs old

Same as standard I'd say... I run those size tyres on a 7J and use 36PSI front and 33 at the rear

Not sure what the problem is - fairly standard parts that any factor and GSF should sell... As above I'd stick with VW genuine stuff for everything you can but Elring stuff is fine - try here if you want to buy online http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_gaskets.php

Kev - your engine bay makes my balls ache... Sorry - off topic :oops:

Yep, no need to take dash out... Take seats out and rear pass door card off and bolt the relays in place with the earth opposite to where the Electric Window module it on the other side. The loom then runs forward then across and under both seats (you will see the connectors in the middle of each seat, right to the other side of the car then forward into the fuse box - I can't remember if the switch wiring T's off before this or not but should become apparent when you lay it out in the car.

Yeah they don't look right from the pics - don't think any VW rear caliper uses a connection with washers like that! Have a look at the pics on this page - this is what the hoses should look like http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_brakes.php

You need both sets ideally, the base set is available from Screwfix

Guys - these are still available from VW and the current batch have a nice proper backing again unlike the foam ones I last bought about 7 years ago. They are around £55 inc vat with discount.

It's well known the Eibach springs just don't fit the Corrado well and they are pretty harsh too - try and get some H&R's

Vince, have you tried Eurocarparts as they are an ATE dealer - they certainly do master cylinders and Bias valves which are the same as genuine. Agreed this is getting ridiculous though, I thought it was only Corrado specific parts we'd have to be worried about - not safety critical parts fitted to a MK3 Golf! I think this is where the CCGB really needs to step in and contact VW and at least get first refusal on parts that are about to go obsolete for members.

You can do but you should be able to feel them energise when you turn the key to crank... Try putting your hand on the relays first to test. Check/ reseat all fuses first and re-seat both relays, if fuse 18 is blown then this is Fuel pump and also Lambda probe, you can unplug the probe near to the rear engine mount. I don't think the FP for the VR6 does prime like the other engines so it could be just stale fuel in the system still... I would replace the relays (especially if they''ve not been changed in the last 5 years) as this seems a likely cause ECU relay is position 3 and marked number 109, FP is pos 12 and number 167 (or 80? if original) If that doesn't work then it could also be ignition switch (try shaking the key when cranking) and / or alarm / wiring issues / crank sensor / engine earths etc - also is the oil pressure light going out when cranking?? ------------------- The way the VR works is that the ECU relay comes on at Ignition II then the FP relay is then only energised again once the ECU receives a signal from the Crank sensor (G28) and this then powers the fuel pump and Lambda heating.

Fuel pump and ECU relays!

Not discontinued at all, only the 1 Ltr is no longer available and it's called Synta 10W-40 not Silver but still comes in a Silver bottle. Part number is ZGB115QLB00406 and is £12.16+vat rrp or £8.79+vat via TPS (sometimes even cheaper when they are running 10% off oils) As for 6 Ltr bottles the 1Ltr was handy for that but most engines don't use more than 5, only the VR that I know of - I find the Castrol 4 Ltr ones annoying though!

That's mad - this is still a Supercar in terms of speed and properly rare... What would it be worth if in mint condition on that low mileage - £1 Mil+ ?

Silicon don't always fit that well so I would stick with genuine if you can get them. The other option is to buy 2 MK1 Golf hoses (much cheaper) that don't have the take off's for the OE heat exchanger and replace this will a mocal oil cooler system.

Welcome to the forum... sounds like the slave cylinder has gone, did the clutch pedal bite point drop or pedal stick to the carpet? This shares the same fluid reservoir as the brake system so needs fixing asap. Fairly easy part to change and you will need to bleed the new one.