Supercharged

Yeah the bulbs thing is correct but what is handy is you can buy the one bulb for £7.50 as I did when one went rather than another pair... Motor factors - I find halfords cheaper in almost all cases now, way cheaper than GSF too for Bosch wiper blades! Tools are superb but I've noticed the discounts are not as good now as I think people were abusing the card and selling on eBay. Gunsons and Laser stuff like brake flaring tools, timing lights etc also get nice big discounts... Free screwdrivers - I did manage to get a set once but was blagging it... Usually stick to TPS for Oil though - no where can beat them on price!

Have you tried the old sensor again?? Was the new one genuine? Also check the wiring to the plug and inside the plug

Yep - poor quality belt or belt too long for pulley size will do this as will a knackered tensioning damper

I reckon worth doing on a VR but not a 16V tbh...

Yeah - was thinking they'd be about £50 inc vat - not too bad... Deffo get the gauges mate - last chance!

I reckon the F version mate - how much is it by the way?

It's usually the last 3 digits they need but I would get it from VW if you can....

:D

I'd be tempted to go back to JBS then - It could be the disc is warped on the side the caliper was binding or the pads are glazed and need sanding and also the carrier cleaning but they should have done all this when the caliper was done... If you want a second opinion just chuck it into KwikFit for a free brake check

Mawrick - the above info is from a MK3 but would you mind checking the instructions for us and I will update the new 'Sticky' thread accordingly... viewtopic.php?f=19&t=93547 Let me know of any additional info we should add!

The below info is for a MK3 Golf but AFAIK it should be the same on a Corrado... 1. Disconnect negative battery cable. 2. Center steering wheel in straight-ahead position. 3. Remove both socket head screws from rear of steering wheel (2 x 5mm Allen) 4. Carefully remove airbag unit from steering wheel and disconnect harness connector from rear of unit. 5. Remove trim below steering column switch. Disconnect wiring harness connector (remove foam sleeve from connector if fitted). 6. Remove 24mm hex nut in center of steering wheel. Make matching marks on steering wheel and steering column. Pull steering wheel off steering column. CAUTION -The airbag spiral spring on the rear of the steering wheel must be "locked" in its centered position. To do this, hold the wheel in the normally installed position. The with wire on the spiral spring facing downward, turn the connecting ring just until the spiral spring locks in position. 7. Reinstall steering wheel in reverse order of removal. Use new self-locking bolts to mount airbag to steering wheel. When installing trim, ensure that airbag harness connector sits in recess in trim. 8. After installing airbag unit and reconnecting airbag electrical connectors, switch ignition on, then reconnect negative battery cable. WARNING- - DO NOT reconnect the battery cable until airbag and steering wheel installation is complete, including reconnection of harness connectors. - The ignition switch must be turned on BEFORE reconnectiing the battery cable. - VAGCOM can be used to clear the light if needed but be careful!

1. Disconnect negative battery cable. 2. Center steering wheel in straight-ahead position. 3. Remove both socket head screws from rear of steering wheel (2 x 5mm Allen) 4. Carefully remove airbag unit from steering wheel and disconnect harness connector from rear of unit. 5. Remove trim below steering column switch. Disconnect wiring harness connector (remove foam sleeve from connector if fitted). 6. Remove 24mm hex nut in center of steering wheel. Make matching marks on steering wheel and steering column. Pull steering wheel off steering column. CAUTION -The airbag spiral spring on the rear of the steering wheel must be "locked" in its centered position. To do this, hold the wheel in the normally installed position. The with wire on the spiral spring facing downward, turn the connecting ring just until the spiral spring locks in position. 7. Reinstall steering wheel in reverse order of removal. Use new self-locking bolts to mount airbag to steering wheel. When installing trim, ensure that airbag harness connector sits in recess in trim. 8. After installing airbag unit and reconnecting airbag electrical connectors, switch ignition on, then reconnect negative battery cable. WARNING- - DO NOT reconnect the battery cable until airbag and steering wheel installation is complete, including reconnection of harness connectors. - The ignition switch must be turned on BEFORE reconnectiing the battery cable. - VAGCOM can be used to clear the light if needed but be careful!

Should be the same as a MK3 Golf - clip plug with a locking type connector... Whatever you do make sure you disconnect the battery first and make sure you have VAGCOm handy to clear the codes if you need to start the car with the wheel off.

Welcome to the forum - would have thought any decent garage or MOT type place should be able to find this on the ramp... Worth taking to a trusted garage or even a local Kwik Fit and getting it diagnosed for free.

Yep as above - should always be replaced according to VW and I think the torque is 35Nm Pennies from VW but the Halfords kits are 80p on trade for 4 bolts.

Yeah it can be done in situ if you don't want to mess up the allignment so yes just remove the filter housing and the small panel between that and the headlight. Probably easier to change the bulb if you remove the headlight unit though...

Chris - I just use these and they work really well... http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/Car-Cleani ... vt/0257584

Smoked?? I can't see the pic

Your eezibleed seals might have dried out - phone Gunsons and they will send you some out - they work well but I think those kits are only designed to be used a few times, not heavy duty enough really but for the price they are great... You shouldn't need to depress the pedal using Eezibleed by the way - that's the whole point of pressure bleeding so you can't damage the master cylinder. I think the 41mm rears may not help tbh but I would just take it to VW if you are still having problems and get them to bleed it with the proper kit, especially if you have ABS - most dealers offer a discount for old cars so only £30 or so.

Dan - the Polo column David shows above is the Corrado one - 535 part number... it was around £70 when I bought mine a few years ago. You need a few other bits like lock housing, sleeve, new ign switch, bearing, spring, plastic cowling - all in it comes to around £200

Interesting - could you see what it was sealed with originally?? Yeah looks like acid erosion as it's in quite a state... mine had some powdery deposits due to water corrosion but I just used an airline to clean it and ran some degreaser through it, doesn't leak boost so still using it but have a brand new one in the loft for when I need to replace. As Steveo says some sort of strong sealant should do it but not sure if you have to be careful what type as the lambda probe does not like silicone - should not really matter though as long as it's cured properly.

Alright mate - wondering if there is some sort of air / fuel leak around the metering head or the plunger thing is getting stuck open?

More likely it's the pump that is the issue - nice and cheap from VW (exchange part) Fitting is easy enough but engine needs to be jacked up for access - RW1 did a write up in the Sprinter magazine a few years ago.

Yeah there is a clip near the spoiler module so you really need to take that lower shelf off to gain proper access!

Irwins?