Supercharged

What length is the belt you were running? - the reason I ask is that VAG are the only ones who sell the correct length belt by Gates as its branded VW :roll: The Bosch one that GSF sell are way too short 650mm instead of 673 IIRC :x

What the hell is it? Or is this TFT seriously out of phase :roll:

C&R were doing them at Inters for £55 each (no exchange) and £21 for the goodridge conversion hoses (you need these because of the Banjo type fitting) GSF were £50 each for the Lucas calipers but you need to pay an exchange surcharge and send off your old ones at your cost.

HIC do the same to me every year, I always phone the new busisess number that gets straight thru and if they cannot put me directly thru to someone in the right dept I give them my mobile to call me back... There system is crap but they have always been the cheapest, I have never paid more than £450 to insure a car with them, used them since the age of 19 when I got my first Mk2 Gti :wink:

Mr Clutch?

most likely to be just the heatsheild on the CAT reasonating against it.... Look under the car while someone revs the engine, if its broken you can either rip it off or secure with a large jubilee clip.

My G60 BBS's are ET33

Steve, you can do it with the rack and engine in the car on a lift - i did it with a trolley jack and Its an arse! First make sure the new Track Rod is 6 sided at the end where it goes onto the rack at 70Nm - Mine was a Febi MK2 Golf one from GSF (not sure if you are familiar with this company :) ) and it only had 2 sides, if it does take it back and get a proper one from VAG (£50) You will also need a BJ splitter and a thin 32mm spanner, you can reuse the boot from the old rod. 1 - Make sure you can get the TRE bolt loose first then remove the boot... 2 - Allign the rack so you can get a spanner onto the 32mm hex on the Track Rod between the wishbone and the subframe and loosen it. 3 - use the splitter to remove the TRE and remove with the rod attached. 4 - To keep the tracking alligned you will need to measure the old one, if its bent your best to count the threads as you remove the TRE, you will need to do this anyways to get the boot off, best done in a vice 5 - Set the length of the new one up not forgetting to put the boot onit! and use the end to help turn onto the rack (use threadlock) - as I got mine fairly tight, the ball joint at the rack end loosened (as it should) then do up with the spanner making sure the end is allinged then tighten the end with a new lock nut and cable tie the boot back on.

Get the front wheels in the air and check for play in the steering / suspension components...

EBC stuff is noisey and they are well known for fading, change them for Pagid Fast Roaders and ATE/Pagid discs

I tried a thin spray oil when i got the car and it sorted the problem for about a year then this time i used talcum powder which seems to be doing the job!

:lol: :? 8)

:lol:

You need the mech as well!

http://www.seatenthusiasts.co.uk/pages/ ... o/main.htm

http://www.gpcvwaudi.com

Picked up a set at Inters for mine, good fit thanks to the BREMI ends and seem very good quality and backed up by a lifetime warranty!

I have seen a few C's with mono-wipers but they just don't look right, it suits the mk2 but the Lupo's are definetly the way to go with the Corrado! :wink:

Yeah, I keep seeing them at shows and they look pap! - its not just the contact area either, Its also the cubic area of the disc being less affecting its ability to withstand the heat generated while braking. :roll:

Yeah they do, a mate picked some up at Inters... yet to see them fitted tho...

GPC do them for £30 each.... http://www.gpcvwaudi.com

This might help...

:D :lol: 8)

Yup, and the RM splits are £370 +vat each :?

dr_mat, You don't work for a Book Publishers called 'Haynes' by any chance??