Wullie

Well, just dropped the car off for it's MOT. Garage says "Give me a call about 4 pm. Should be done by then." The man has no sympathy for my fingernails.

http://home.bt.com/lifestyle/motoring/motoringnews/1961-car-with-20-miles-on-clock-11363835509949

I've got the motor only. It was from a 1.8 valver but I think they were common to all. Part number 130 821 223. It's working but is missing the kinda bobbin bit that the cable winds round. Would that be any use to you?

Well, after much rolling about on the driveway, much cursing and sweary words and managing to get a load of underseal in my hair the Corrado is booked in for an MOT next Tuesday. I love Irwin bolt grippers.

I had the very same and found it was pretty pointless making random selections of possible culprits. First check was to start by disconnecting the battery when the car was parked up for a couple of days. If on reconnecting it the battery was flat it's a battery problem, verify by fitting a different battery and see if the problem persists. If the battery is still fine when reconnected it is probably something draining the battery, this can be verified by checking with a multimeter between the negative battery terminal and the earth lead, disconnect it from the battery first. f I remember correctly if it's more than 0.03ish of an amp there is something drawing current. Someone will verify what the current should be. Now track down what is causing the drain. My method was to make up a test light with enough cable to go from the battery to the inside of the car below the fuse box. Disconnect the negative lead and connect the leads between the battery post and the earth lead terminal. The bulb should glow, it's brightness dependant on the amount of current drain. Now start pulling fuses and look for the one that causes the light to go out or dim to next to nothing. Remenber the "hidden fuses above the relays at the very top of the fusebox. Once you have found the fuse check the components covered by that fuse. In my case it was the passenger door pneumatic thingy. When it was disconnected the light went out. Yaay. Happy hunting.

There are two sensors on top of the filter housing. They are known for breaking down and leaking oil from around the electrical connectors. Best advice would be to thoroughly clean around the area and see what you can see. Clean, dry and dust with talc. Any oil trails should show up in the talc.

Welcome to my.....what's the word?? Eh, yes, that's it. Umm. What were we talking about??????????????

How did you guess?

Lots of info here http://www.aic.org.uk/asbestos_cement.htm

I can make myself invisible as well. But I can only do it when no one is looking.

I had a good weekend. St Mirren weren't playing so they didn't get beat.

If it's the wee wheel you need there should be another one in the shed, let me know if that is what the problem is. Tolltorrac, you have a PM.

Well, now you come to mention it, while I was rolling about on the drive she did enquire where I'd put the insurance policies. Actually I think she gave up on me years ago.

Brake pipes on, surprisingly painless and they brakes bled out perfectly. Tip, get a really keen grandson to jump up and down on the pedal, did exactly what I said. Also got the grinder out and went round the wheel arches and sundry other little brown spots on the body. Some rust preventative and primer at the moment. She who must occasionally be obeyed said it was a good idea. It's like camouflage so no one notices it on the drive. I obeyed her when she said why don't you bugger off for a beer and give me peace from your greetin face. Hoping for a dry day tomorrow. Thanks to all for the encouragement.

Does it smell (of petrol) when stationary? If it does have a good look, and sniff, along the fuel pipes, pump etc. while checking clamps etc. If you can do this with the engine running then any leaks should be apparent. Another thought. Is the car running excessively rich, like only getting a dozen miles to the gallon? Could be unburnt fuel in the exhaust. It's really difficult, well, nigh on impossible to diagnose a fault like this remotely on a forum, it's a case of getting under there and looking. Best nose on and get sniffing.

If I remember correctly the last offer of free bacon had a strange effect on some user names.

Maybe of interest http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

Surprisingly little after todays look round. A rear wheel bearing, a couple of brake pipes and an exhaust clamp so far. Tidy up the paint and bodywork and a good clean out for starters. I'll run it down to JR Volkswagen and shove it up on a sparer ramp and have a better look. When that's done I'll run it into the garage and see what happens. Had it too long to just let go.

SORN'd the Corrado a couple of months ago as it needed a bit of work for it's MOT and pennies are in really short supply. So it's been sat on the drive looking forlorn while I swithered whether I had the time and patience to break it or just wheel it down to the scrappy and be done with it. Made my mind up today that I really can't let it go and began to make a list of needed bits and work that's required for said MOT. Just couldn't do it. She who thinks she must be obeyed just shook her head and muttered something about besotted and sanity.

I've got some old window mech arms buried in the shed, PM me your address and I'll pop a wheel off and stick it in an envelope.

Try a leaf blower

This diagram should help, item 10.[ATTACH=CONFIG]75294[/ATTACH]

I lived close to the old Rootes factory in Linwood and the workforce spent more time smuggling parts out of the place than they did working. A wander round the perimeter fence would usually provide the spare you were looking for. The "them and us" attitude didn't help and strikes were a weekly occurrence. A few friends who left other jobs for the "Big wages" left again when they realised they were getting less money due to the continual strikes, most of which were over petty matters but would result in most of the factory walking out in "sympathy". As a result production and quality were non existent. Not really surprising that it closed.

Here's something to think about, Feasible or not. http://uk.news.yahoo.com/car-hackers-control-toyota-prius-144420185.html#DAhNvIN

The regulator is secured to rollers mounted in a channel secured to the bottom of the window. The legs of the regulator have ball connectors which are popped in and out of the rollers. Just be careful the window doesn't plummet down once you disconnect it, ideally get someone to hold it in place or tape it securely.