Wullie

Mine is a 1.8 16v. There is a line/notch on the inside lip of the pulley. If you jack up the drivers side front wheel with the car in 5th you will be able to turn the wheel by hand while watching the crank pulley rotate. I'm not sure if the 2.0 16v has V-belts or ribbed but assume the principal will be the same. I'm sure someone else will have a more definite answer on that.

Check the crankshaft pulley is tight an properly aligned, there should be a TDC mark on it which you can compare with the flywheel mark. It should line up with a mark on the camshaft cover. Or you can use the stick down the plughole method. These have been known to loosen, damaging the keyway and allowing the pully to rotate out of alighnment. I appreciate this must be really frustrating for you but is you stick to one continuos thread rather than starting new ones people will be able to follow the saga from start to finish and have a better idea of what has/hasn't been said/done. Also sticking in your location and car variety in you sig helps as well. You could be local to someone but the don't rrealise it. Sorry to sound like a teacher but only trying to be helpful. Wullie

I can't believe I just sat and watched 4 minutes of someon putting a gear knob on. (Or for the more letcherous of you, screwing on a gear knob.)

More luck than judment as it could be almost anything. Glad it's sorted as it's a real pain in the ass going out to the car wondering if it will start or you have to drag out the jump leads and you only have ten minutes to get to work.

My wife had a similar problem where a car she had purchased had a seriously dodgy MOT issued about a month before she bought it. My mechanic went to the test centre involved and they agreed to pay for the cost of repairs. The main problem was seriously rusted an collapsing suspension arms. However the faults you have are of the "could happen any time" variety so this approach would probably not work. It's worth remembering that an MOT is really only valid at the time the vehicle is tested. e.g. Cat on for MOT, off again as soon as it's home.

But mine ain't a VR6.

It's a Corrado, they do things like that just to annoy you or get attention. It may be something to do with heat or expansion of bits but I really haven't a clue as to why. Seriously though, given the slightly disastrous consequences if the belt goes I would have a look ASAP. While in that area I would also give the crankshaft pully bolt a check as well. Have you tried using a long screwdriver as a stethoscope substitute to try and tie down the location of the noise.

Probably best to whip the cover off and have a look for any marks inside, or anything else out of place. It's only a couple of bolts, max two skinned knuckles and ten cuss words. :)

Tensioner starting to get a bit past it?

The windows will still work for a short time after the keys are out, it's one of those Corrado things. I've never worked out just how long for or what controls it. Try leaving the car locked for ten minutes then see if they still work without switching on the ignition. Haven't a clue about the radio bit. Mine is always live and has been since I got it. Response to a previous post, the battery drain I was getting because of the door lock fault happenned all the time, not just when the door was locked.

Sounds as if it was bad wiring then. :bonk:

Try the other battery as Wendy says. Once it's running I would check the alternator output to make sure it's giving enough charge to the battery, should be around 14 - 14.5 volts with the engine running.. If not check the drive belt to make sure it's tight, if that's OK get the alternator checked out.

I used an indicator bulb rig that I had already made up from many moons ago. A bulb with wires soldered to the terminal on the base and the side of the bulb. I just extended the wires so that the reached from the battery to inside the car. This had the advantage that it lit up the fusebox until I found the circuit causing the problem. The light from the bulb was quite bright and steady.The circuit was the one covered by the "hidden" fuse above the relays. Once I had defined the circuit I recplaced the fuse and went round all the bits and bobs that were controlled by it until I finally disconnected something that caused the light to go off. In my case it was the actuator mentioned in the thread above. It's still disconnected and taped up and apart from a few days recently which may have been dampness I have had no problems. If you need anything more let me know.

Might just bother the plods as well. They are fog lights and there are rules for their use.

Just a thought. It sounds possibly as if the cold start (5th) injector is not shutting off. Have you tried it disconnected? Mind you. I'm just in from the pub.

HAve a read throught this thread. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?55516-do-i-cut-my-door-of&highlight=%2Bdoor+%2Block

Just heard fish fingers have been withdrawn from sale. Tests found traces of sea horse DNA.

On January 10th Mike Brewer confirmed that series 10 of Wheeler Dealers would start on February 19th 2013 at 9PM in the UK.[3] Cars for series 10 will include 1956 Volkswagen Beetle, Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow, Ford Escort Mk1, 1962 Cadillac Series 62, 1995 Aston Martin DB7 and 1964 Chevrolet Corvette Sting Ray From Wikipedia. Interested in the Stingray episode as I was restoring one when I was in Canada. Found it at a farm sale in backwoods Ontario and purchased it for $200 Canadian. [ATTACH=CONFIG]72083[/ATTACH]

Puff some talc around the suspect areas, leaks should show up as tracks in it plus your engine will smell nice. :|

I just sat patiently on the drive with a long bladed stanely knife type thing, a glass of red wine and Springstein on the CD player. Takes a while but I enjoyed it????

Not a drop of snow here as yet, blue skies and cold. Not sure whetheer to be happy or sad about it.

Don't really know much about it to be honest but don't like to see unanswered questions, perhaps this may help, perhaps not. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38824-Mocal-fitting-PLEASE-NOTE!

Better phone the insurance company in the morning. I suppose that'll be another £25 policy modification. Wonder if I should declare my "Stop the Bloody Whaling" sticker as well. And I've removed the side strips which will make it lighter so it will go faster. Just as well I bought the feckin bike!

Spurred on by this thread I think I may have gone slightly mad. I have just bought this. [ATTACH=CONFIG]71609[/ATTACH] I foresee pain and possibly death by heart attack in the near future. She who can't stop laughing is already looking out the insurance policies. Its also the nearest I'll get to a vehicle with a flappy gear change.

This is intriguing. My car has an anti hijack system built in via the alarm. Basically if shut the doors and switch on the ignition the central locking operates and locks everything. I did a bit of Googling and came up with this www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/repository/Categorisation%20of%20Defects.pdf On page 192 it states:- Part 2: Passenger Cars, Private Buses and Light Goods Vehicles Doors Door jammed/ obstructed/ cannot be opened from inside or outside Jammed,obstructed or deliberately secured so that it cannot be opened from inside or outside (See Note 5) 5.This applies to the driver’s and front passengerdoors on a car, or any door on a bus, but if the door opposite to the driving side of a goods vehicleis rendered inoperative deliberately,it must be considered to be an integral part of the cab. This is flagged with an "I" denoting an immediate prohibition. The last amendment to the document is listed as 2008 suggesting that it is still valid. So going by the letter of the second paragraph, when I switch on the ignition I am deliberately securing the doors in violation of that paragraph. But then as is said above this feature is standard on most new cars nowadays. Seems a case of damned if you do and damnedif you don't.