Jim

Best things about the VR6? The noise. Reasonable economy. Strong / reliable if well maintained. Goes like stink if you're in the mood for some fun, but is really refined and perfect for daily driving with a good spread of torque and long gearing. Things to watch out for? I think easypops is right with the rust.

Ooh lookie here: http://www.tdnparts.com/products/Pressure-Reducer%2C-Inline-for-Heater-Core.-.html

Ah apologies - I was getting confused with the bypass valves that were fitted on a recall? Maybe on earlier models? Sure it was designed that they would pop first rather than the matrix, thus dumping coolant out in the engine bay and not onto your feet!

Bump.

Like easypops says, not sure this ever got fitted to the VR. Shouldn't need them either - ultimately you need to find the cause of the over pressurisation - fitting the bypass valves would just mean as soon as the system got up to pressure they'd be dumping the coolant / excess pressure out so wouldn't be much use? I think bypassing the matrix for the time being and then working back from that is the way forward.

I've got a pretty generic Halfords one which isn't actually a trickle charger so you need to disconnect the battery to use it... but it seems to do the job :)

I think certainly for a respray of any real calibre you're going to be looking at 4k upwards and that's before you factor in any replacement panels, trim pieces, etc.

God knows, Ron! Not a Corrado though!

Got a couple of Cov fan friends at work mate - will try and remember to ask.

3,600 miles is pretty incredible though. Visual defects aside, it'd be as tight as a drum to drive!

I think the best way would be to manually position the sunroof in the correct position in the roof - what you define as your 'parked' position - using the switch, driving the motor. Then unbolt the sunroof motor and drop it out of the mechanism, but leave it connected electrically. Then lock the car with the key or via the alarm fob / central locking system to activate the full closure system which will activate the sunroof motor to move to its park position. Then rebolt the sunroof motor back in place and you should be good to go.

Unfortunately some people just live in a total bubble and don't give a rats ass about inconveniencing other people. Anyone with a brain cell would have looked, seen a drive way, and left plenty of room.

As C5 OEM says, it's lazy trader syndrome. Just picked it up for a song, seen what sorts of prices they are selling for, and trying to make a quick buck. Good chance too with that mileage as it is nuts - never seen one with that kind of mileage. But it's clearly going to need some work :(

Really excited for this one :)

Wow - those close up details are pretty shocking! You'd need to spend a few grand on sorting the paint out before anything else! :( You might expect that on a 150k car, but not 3,500 miles!

Front end is pretty easy to remove thankfully. Also helps now that bonnet cable and the associated 'nipple' or trumpet used at the end of the cable is also now available. Though it's possible to just leave that connected and swing the whole slam panel away at the front, leaving the cable connected if you don't want to risk removing it. I'm pondering here also whether you even need to remove the headlights even.. pretty sure you can just disconnect them and remove the slam panel as a whole with them in place? Someone can correct me on that one though!

Are you sure the non return valve was actually present in the pipe?

Thanks Tony, I was really pleased it's gone to what sounds like a great home with an enthusiastic owner / family. Glad to hear the Corrado bug has already bitten you :)

It was discussed, but not sure if ever confirmed, that these might fit: I had a bag delivered (but sadly they just drove off with the new owner of my car!) and whilst they're kind of the same, they're not quite as long. Certainly worth a try though: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-130-BONNET-RELEASE-CABLE-SLAM-PANEL-CLIP-13H489L-/271594202781?hash=item3f3c46a69d:g:1hQAAOSwXeJYF4HI

Coincidentally, we've had a few discussions on this recently. Everything works fine without it BUT you may find (as me and a few others have) that when you put the ignition on after the car has been sat for a day and the auxiliary water pump fires up, you'll hear the sound of water gurgling and sloshing behind the dashboard through the heater matrix for a second or two. As a replacement, I bought one of these (different vendor but similar thing): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ONE-WAY-FUEL-NON-RETURN-CHECK-VALVE-PETROL-AND-DIESEL-BIO-FUEL-6-8-10-12mm-Size-/302173921974?var=&hash=item465af822b6:m:m_1PVP19zubFukBMP0wwfuQ Need an 8mm one for the Corrado. Spliced it in line on the coolant hose into the throttle body and secured with a couple of jubilee clips. That solved the problem of the water noises from behind the dash nicely :)

Another thumbs up for the Hella one. The OE ones VW were selling towards the end were Denso Marston and were really decent.. but the Hella one does work fine! :)

Excellent news :) I may have a couple of injectors spare I'm happy to stick in the post for you for the cost of the postage? When I swapped to some refurbished ones I removed mine but some had become stuck in the inlet manifold (because of a badly executed powder coating process) and they sort of broke.. but I'm sure at least 3-4 of them came out unscathed.

Fingers crossed it's still there and hasn't been cut off. Might have to start delving behind the dashboard to find it though :( Worth taking the undertrays out and the glovebox too as that will give you some good access to see what's going on behind there.

A clusterf@ck of Corrado's? :)

Cheers Kippy - very kind words indeed. Hopefully see you at some point this year :)