seanl82

Pretty much. You'll have to drill into the door inner panel or use existing holes for the actuator, and its a bit of trial and error by moving them about a little to ensure they're unlocking the door correctly, but its easy enough mate.

Top up with antifreeze/water, leave the cap off and run the engine up to temp by idling for 30 seconds, then revving to about 2.5k rpm, and whilst idling massage the hoses. When the water gets to 90, you should feel the bottom rad hose begin to get hot. Thats another one to check, as your thermostat could be stuck closed, but you'd quickly get overheating if thats happened. Once the water has passed 90 and your fans have started kicking in, turn off and wait for system to cool. Once cooled, top up coolant and you should be good to go.

Possibly, but removing the cap will make the coolant gush out anyway as its pressurised when working correctly. Pipes shouldn't be that hard though, and if you have a black expansion tank cap, I'd recommend replacing it with a modern blue one as they were known to lock up and not release pressure as they should. Have a look down the side of the expansion tank where the overflow is, as if its overpressurising, then the cap may be working correctly and releasing it down onto the chassis leg as its supposed to do. I'd probably get a sniff test done on your coolant too, as its common with Head Gasket failure for it to get the the point you're experiencing.

Its a pretty straightforward job actually. I've done a couple of cars a while back with the VClick kits off of ebay. The instructions are pretty good that come with it, you just need to identify a couple of permanent live feeds iirc.

It has come up here in the past, and based on what info I could find online, I generally set it to 1psi above standard for every inch in wheel diameter. I'm sure others have disagreed with it, but I was content with that. With lower profile tyres you'll want less movement in the sidewall so increasing the pressure seems the correct thing to do imo..........

The grille VR6 badges were all brushed aside from the 93? year models which had the red badge. The rear VR6 badges were chrome though, but thats the same across all model years iirc.

Pretty sure the BMC CDA was the only one to offer any real gains. There was a thread with a link to back to back dynos on standard paper, K&N panel, K&N cone, and BMC CDA. The cone actually reduced power, and the K&N panel was only marginally better than the paper filter, but the BMC CDA gave good power gains. I've had all of the above except the cone, and imo the standard airbox just dampens too much of the VR6 noise (although tbf I'm almost deaf in one ear). I love the BMC CDA, its dead quiet whilst cruising yet sounds incredible when giving it a hard right foot. That'd be my recommendation anyway.

Just hit the smilie above the reply box. :thumbleft: I think I changed the rocker gasket around November/December 2014 time. It should be in with the receipts I passed on? IIRC the leads were cheap aftermarket ones that were on when I got it. They seemed to be working fine and as mentioned previously, I didn't notice any tailing off at the top of the rev range, although a only got the revs up probably twice and the short blast I took it on when I went the long way around to the MOT station (It was literally 200 yards from where the car was kept when I was working on it!). As mentioned in my ad when I sold it, the plugs were Bosch super 4s which some have found a little temperamental on the VR judging by past posts, but they looked relatively new so I gave them a quick wire brush and replaced them. I'd get them both changed out if you suspect them as they're relatively inexpensive and should give you peace of mind mate.

Great car, hope you got to the bottom of your high rev conundrum. I changed the rocker gasket when I had it, torqued up correctly too (20nm iirc). Strange how its leaking again, although it was an aftermarket one but it stopped the leak at the time. Best of luck with it though, sounds like its finally fallen into the right hands. :thumbleft:

Damn you hit the jackpot with that one!

Those Magnums were ummmm, interesting! Great collection though. :thumbleft:

100% fit. I have them on mine, as do many others. Have a look in the wiki for part numbers of the calipers etc. Think you may need carrier adaptors for the mk4 setup but not totally sure. I have mk3 Golf 288mm calipers on mine with braided hoses and its a good step up from the standard 280mm. It not so much the disks than the pads, I remember reading there is around a 25% increase in friction coverage. The pads are noticeably much bigger.

Yep, 288mm from a mk3 or 4 Golf fits under. Bit snug, but fills the inner rim nicely.

I got a premium one from GSF a couple of years back and that was a Behr/Hella one. Fitted perfectly and came with a new foam gasket too.

A few of us on here have done it, either with a Furniture Clinic kit, or a Gliptone kit iirc. I used the FC kit, and its really quite good. Just send something off for them to colour match (I used a headrest) and it comes back within a couple of days. Really easy to use, but I'd recommend getting a couple of extra compressed air cans as thats the only thing I thought more of them could have been included. There are video tutorials on their website and the instructions are good enough. End results can be seen somewhere in my members gallery, I'll try to link it in later!

Unless you get a space bubble, theres not much hope I'm afraid. I was without a drive or garage for about 4 weeks up until about a month back, and it caused me no end of stress for that exact reason! I ding in the door almost sent me into fits of rage, and the kids playing in the cul de sac had me biting my nails and shouting out the door constantly! Good luck with whatever you decide, but as said a space bubble may be your only real hope, and they're not exactly cheap!!!!

Golf V5 ones fit too Hasan. Have a higher output load too so theyre like little turbines when cranking. :thumbleft:

These ones come with an adhesive backing so no glue needed!

Love you too Matt! In fairness, I didn't think the rear made much difference anyway. The front I can understand, but I don't see how it can make a lot of difference on a car with a rear axle. Happy to be told otherwise though. :thumbleft:

Unless its being used for track use, absolutely not.

I managed to get one in the end, so have a re-covered one if you need it. The cutting/fit isn't great on the bottom where it folds up, and the colour is more kind of stone, but it looks pretty good from the top. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?79984-Seanl82-s-uuuuumm-Storm&p=1103253&viewfull=1#post1103253 Yours if you want it for a good price mate.

Thats a shame mate. They're not very good fitting either so most are probably missing by now too.

The splines are more than likely different, but I'm sure you'd be able to get an adapter made up.

I did the same but with grey, as they were still available from the dealer when I got them about 18 months ago. I can't get the part number for you I'm afraid as I'm away from home for a while, but its on ETKA.

Jim, I think as long as you don't go mad with a flap disk or anything you should be fine. They're balanced to some extent I believe, though some even have a big chunk of rubber to act as a damper so as long as you don't take too much metal off it shouldn't be a problem. Inner ones should be fine for a cheaper alternative also as they don't have the sideways load the outer ones do.