seanl82

Mega easy to fit so you should have them all replaced in about 30 mins!

It's the right connector, I checked mine to be sure but just checking I got what you meant correctly. Pm me your address and I'll get it posted tomorrow if you like mate. Cheers.

This what you need? Pm me if it's what you need, and it's yours for the cost of P&P mate.

There may be, however it's the bowden cables that generally cause the initial problem, and the gears are just one of quite a few weak parts that fail. Replacing the gears will likely just lead to a different part failing, and the plastic chassis that the clips fold onto are also very weak and could render the whole thing junk. That's obviously other people's call though, so worth seeing if it's viable imo.

Haha, the worst thing is, I work on a bloody warship!

They do look very nice indeed! MJ has a fantastic reputation for their quality too. :thumbleft:

Try being in my job! I've got more memory on the stick at the back of the kitchen drawer I won in a raffle 10 years ago than the system I maintain at work!

Welcome to the forum! Have a look in the wiki section mate, there's a good buying guide in there under general. Be prepared to travel too, not too many about now. Finally, buy on condition not necessarily mileage. Bodywork is far more expensive than mechanicals. Good luck with your search!

I've got a load of pigtails with connectors, so I'll have a look tomorrow to see if I have the mirror switch one mate.

Its definitely worth it Daren. I only have a cheap rotary (Silverline) which was about £50, but factor in polishes, pads etc it can get out of control! A DA is much safer but takes a little longer and doesn't give the level of finish as a rotary. That said, a rotary is perfectly safe as long as you exercise a bit of caution. There are some very in depth write ups on both on detailing world, so I'd give that a look if you're thinking about it mate. Its back breaking work though! Once the initial outlay is out of the way, its not expensive as instead of using glazes all the time to "fill" swirls and scratches, you can cut them back so a good wax will offer enough filling to mask whats left.

I can't be arsed any more James! Feel like just paying a professional to do it!

It is mate. I enjoyed this sort of thing at one stage. I think I'm getting too old for it now though, my back is killing me!

I did a couple of areas a while back Kip, and provided the colour match on the paint is good and the areas are relatively small, it'll come up far better than you could imagine with a rattle can! Just be gentle with the wet sanding as the factory paint is obviously much thinner than than that applied by yourself. A good cutting compound then finishing polish will leave it looking brilliant! http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?79984-Seanl82-s-uuuuumm-Storm&p=979771&viewfull=1#post979771

Yeah, but its a cool thing!

Prepped the car yesterday ready for a quick pass with the rotary today. All went well and after a quick rinse and dry first thing this morning I cracked on. Didn't need much as there were only a few very slight swirls from washing, but wanted to do it since the respray anyway. 3M Ultrafina on a 3M blue pad and the paint was looking back to its best again. Went over it twice with panel wipe to remove the polishing oils, a quick rinse and dry again then onto the Carpro CquartzUk which I've had a while. I've used Gtechniq C1 in the past and thought it was fantastic. This ones a little cheaper and pretty much the same thing hence the reason for trying it this time. Unfortunately I came into a bit of a problem. I don't know whether it was because of the heat or I applied it a little too thick, but it just wouldn't buff off. It seemed a little sticky and now just looks hazy, and reading up online suggests quite a few have encountered this. Carpro suggest a wipe over with the reload which is supposed to be applied an hour afterward (and is included in the kit), so tried this to no avail. The next step is to give it a wipe over with a finishing polish just back and forth, to remove a top layer and buff again. Hopefully it won't have hardened too much by tomorrow because I only finished about an hour ago and I'm absolutely shattered! If is has hardened too much, the only way to get it off is to polish it off again, and I really don't want to have to do that. If it doesn't work, I'll just get use the collinite that I've been using for the past couple of years. Should have just stayed with the tried, trusted and go to wax! I'll use the Dlux for the plastic tomorrow as I've used it before and its good stuff.

Gtechniq C4 or Carpro Dlux. Gives a matt finish and restores plastics to how they'd look 'as new' rather than dressed. Best thing about them is they're semi-permanent, so will last 18 months to 2 years before you need to re-apply. Doing mine again tomorrow after 18 months since the last time.

Jim, PurpleTom was selling a very good condition used one recently, worth having a look in the sale section to see if he still has it mate.

Definitely worth the effort mate, looks great!

Attempted to fit the soda blasted inlet manifold this morning, only to be defeated by a rounded hex bolt so couldn't get the old one off. I'll have to remove the slam panel to drill it out at some point, but couldn't be bothered today. Put it all back together and gave it an apc wash then Tfr in preparation for a quick going over with the rotary polisher tomorrow. Hopefully it doesn't rain on Thursday as I'll be applying the carpro cquartz to the bodywork, and dlux to the plastics. Interior was done yesterday - hoovered, carpets cleaned with apc, leather cleaned and fed with furniture clinic stuff, and trim dressed with poorboys natural look trim dressing. Looks great in there, hopefully the outside looks nice after I've finished too. Engine bay is starting to look a little grubby again, but it has been almost 2 years since I did it and I've had to use it in all weathers the last few months.

Doh!:bonk:

We don't have auto belts over here in Europe. Have a look on corrado club of Canada, some very helpful guides on there mate.

Still available from VW this time last year, not cheap though - £40.72 for the pair! I'm sure I saw aftermarket equivalents on ebay for about 1/3 of the price though. Definitely worth a look on there.

Can anyone confirm what the orange sticker on the lead guide next to the oil filler cap is, and was it standard on UK cars? I believe it's regarding not over filling with oil to avoid damage to the cat, but looking at Google images the vast majority are on LHD cars. Obviously the left hookers are far more common than those of ours that drive on the proper side, but just to confirm if it should have been on it originally? Thanks!

Use kunifer instead. Much stronger than copper and won't corrode like steel.

Yes but check what you have fitted already. The spring plates fitted as standard to the vr6 were changed mid way through the production run. Im sure it's only early ones that are wrong so require the newer top plates - which are the part numbers you've mentioned.