zak

looks amazing, especially in the summer sunshine 8)

Here you go http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.p ... try2038893 i must have missed his post :lol:

I went to stealth today, the vag com problem and the cutting out problem are diagnosed. Vag com was not working because the terminals on the junction box behind the centre console were corroded. The cutting out is because the oil pressure relief valve is jamming shut when the oil is cold and jamming the tappets cusaing the valves to stay open and lose compression. Simple fix when i get round to it by changng the oil pump. Finally got it on the rollers and the cars down on power making less than a standard vr, Vince suggested the intermediate pulley timing could be out from when i changed the chains + tensioners last year. So we agreed i would go away check the bottom end timing and the cam timing and bring the car back another day. SInce then ive been in the garage and stripped the inlet, cam cover and timing chain cover off. The cam timing was spot on. I removed the cams so i could swing the chain out the way to see if the intermediate pulley was alligned. Using kevs method i used a inspection mirror and torch and the intermediate pulley was pointing 12 o clock and lining up with the timing mark. So all looks in order. Before i put the engine back together, i just want a second opinion on the timing, especially the part about the vr being a 4 stroke engine. If cylinder 1 is at top dead centre, the intermidiate pulley is at 12 o clock and the offset cam notches are alligned to the head correctly can the timing still be out? From what i understand that the cams spin one for every 2 revolutions of the crank? how many times does the intermediate pulley turn in relation to the crankshaft and cams? is there anything else i need to know as i want to be 110% sure that the engine is timed correctly before putting it back together. thanks in advance

thanks, where did you get the second picture? did my brother put it up somewhere?

thats nice, i love d90'd in the oe silver 8)

well ive got a quote through fedex for £150 for two parcels each containing two wheels. Was just wondering if there were any cheaper options...

Has anyone done it and advise on who to use for competetive pricing?

never seen them in a corrado but g60 bully on e38 has them in his rallye trimmed in cream leather and they look sweet. Pricey seats though

ive gone as far as taking the plastic housing off and changingthe regulator which is straight forward. Check vortex there was some info on there how to split the alternator further

looks really clean and the classic green paintwork goes with the foliage in the background :grin:

wow, never seen you car in person but looks minty fresh from the pics. I must get my bro to final finish mine again so i can get a nice coat of zaino on it. As for the 7944, best head unit ever and imo is from the same era as the corrado so goes with the interior 8) I had one for years before i succumbed to mp3 and bluetooth so i now have a becker.

as said already its on air ride so does not drive like that

best place to look would be vortex corrado section you can try the following two threads for a start http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2756863 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4314878

Just a heads up for anyone after parts from the US the pound is strongest it has been all year against the dollar. Mid market rate hit 1.55 today. http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/8058553.stm

I have an AG ecu so don’t have a factory immobiliser, the information’s just what I need to trace the wiring I'll see if i can work on it in the next few days. I didn’t notice the water temp, I’ll take it for a spin tonight and report back. I'm pretty sure that i got the cam timing correct, when I installed the cams i turned the engine over about 5 or 6 times by hand and the timing was spot on each time. Vince also mentioned to me about the cam timing especially as my oil temps are about 8 - 10 degrees higher than before i fitted the head and cams. I’m planning to recheck teh timing on the weekend. After I installed the cams and engine i spun the engine on the starter with the fuel pump relay disconnected and the LT wiring disconnected on the coil pack. I didn't take out the plugs but i thought that should have been enough. Either way I’ll be rechecking all the above, I’m not driving the car apart from test runs at the moment but I want to resolve the issues before i get to stealth to avoid wasting time on the day. Thanks for the help.

The strange thing is that the car ran perfectly the first day i had it running after i fitted the head and cams. the problems started from the second day. Any ideas on which wires from the vag com port are connected to the ecu so i can trace them back??

Thanks for the tips, yesterday i pulled out the ecu relay and all the contacts seemed clean but regardless i will change it as soon as i can get to a vw dealer on the weekend as the cutting out when cold still remains. I changed the cam position sensor and blue the blue temp sensor for spare ones i had and the drive is still the same, maybe i could have damaged the cam trigger wheel when i fitted it? As that would have the same problem as a faulty cam position sensor? I also tried to scan the ecu with vag com but it still does not work, i plugged a spare ecu in to see if it would scan that but that also did not work, Where do the wires on the vag com port under the dash connect to? I already checked that pins are still in place in the port but now i need to trace them back so i can can check for damaged connection somewhere. Vag Com is still able to scan the abs so it must only be the wires relating to the ecu that i need to look in to. Any help much appreciated.

Okay I have 3 strange problems with my enginethat i cannot find the answers too through the search As a background my car has been running perfectly without any issues, recently i fitted a flowed head and a set of schimmel 263 cams. The first day i had the engine back together it was running perfect, pulling nice and cleanly all the way through the revs with a solid idle. The following problems started a few days after, nothing was changed in between 1. When the engine is cold and I pull out at the junction at the top of my road my engine cuts out while I’m accelerating out. It has happened to me 5 times in the last week in exactly the same spot, today it clicked that the engine cuts out when reaching 3000rpm. After cutting out I coast to a stop then the engine will not restart straight away. When it does restart after a few tries it misfires for a bit and if i rev it past 3000rpm the engine cuts straight away. Once the engine warms up this problem goes away and the idle is rock solid 2. Generally the car seems down on power and is not accelerating like it did on the first day that i had the car running after fitting the head and cams. There is distinct lack of midrange and top end and it does not accelerate cleanly almost like when there is a misfire holding the engine back. This is quite frustrating as the first day the engine was pulling like a dream. I am booked in at stealth on the 30th of this month for a remap and want to get to the bottom of these problems before i go to get the most benefit. I am unable to scan for fault codes as recently my vag com no longer reads the ecu. This is quite strange as I used to be able to read the ecu without a problem in the past and my vag com definitely works as i used it on several cars recently without any issues. Note this problem occurred prior to swapping the head and installing the cams and I have already checked that the pins are connected to the port under the gear lever. Since I have a load of spare parts I have swapped the following without any success. a. swapped the isv b. changed the spark plugs c. bypassed the isv damper d. swapped the coilpack I have a spare maf and blue temp sensor that i have to try and will do a compression test in the next few days but in the meantime can anyone suggest what could be the cause of the problems bearing in mind it was running fine for a day after the head and cams were fitted?

im booked in on the 30th of this month although my cars mysteriously started cutting out and misfiring when cold in the last few days so i want to get that resolved before i go down.

Thanks :) Jon I'm not sure on the ride height either, i asked Vince and he said theres no measuremet i can take as its different for every car, was you friend on 17's? Although the car is low on the arches it has plenty of ground clearance because of the 17's Heres two more pics

Rs's are still on as im booked for a mapping session at stealth at the end of the month and i need the clearance of the 17's for the rolling road.

where abouts on the bath road? I was driving along in Cranford on the bath road

nice rims, those brakes will be right at home dehind them :D Have you run them to see what clearance is like?

i agree that the head gasket is not so difficult to change but i can also appreciate when time is short its difficult to manage the most simple of jobs. One pointto remember is that breaking it will take a lot of time!

i can confirm that a ram air foam filter is extremely loud and you lose power over a standard set up! I had it on for one evening and i think ive had my fix,also apart from being loud i dont think the noise is that great, it rings at high revs. I much prefer the standard airbox and paper filter for a nice refined sound.