H8RRA

i had this as well, james. Bit late now but do you know of the place at the end of scotswood road? They have a pipe bending machine and do stainless and titanium etc and produce pipes such as your downpipe in one piece. alternatively, they sell pre-manufactured bends or can bend to any angle. i often get a bag of irregular bends from them that they've accumulated from previous jobs. they also have a flaring machine - for example, i've had 55mm stainless pipes flared up to 80mm no problem.

mines fine on a cp ecu as well - apart from idle on startup for a very short time but i've got no MAF, ISV or throttle body heating and it still copes...

rs 2000 custom had fishnet headrests and that was late 70's ther were fishnet headreste'd (?) recaro's and roll top headreste'd recaros. i've still got some from my escort days.....

reminds me of rebuilding mk2 escort crossflow engines - another train of thought is to crank the engine over dry for the rings to bed into the cylinder walls - done this before and it works - i'll second this method but by dry cranking as a similar proposal to thrashing as suggested by mr schimmel - in case everyone was thinking the wires had totally lost the plot with such a wild suggestion

i was thinking about one of these - clicky - might get away with it with a black corrado but possibly naff on other colours - or am i kiding myself and it'll be naff on mine as well

i'll ad the weight of argument for keskins - no.1's too bling for the 'c' for my tastes....

i know you've said how you got it so cheap, but HOW DID YOU GET IT SOO CHEAP!!!!!!!! i've never seen any that price...

i've had both styles of moonroof - the first i fitted had no vents in the blind and when tilted, it opened as you say to give a flow of air - moonroofs from later cars have vents in the blind - the one i have fitted currently has vents and doesn't need to slide back to provide an airflow when tilted

short and sweet reason scooby - dog by name, dog by looks, common, chav corrado - good looking, capable motor, still fairly exclusive and certainly not common

on every vr i've had, warming the engine and then holding it at a steady 3500rpm gets rid of tappet noise unless they are totally shagged. don't know the valver engine but this solves most hydraulic tappet issues - unless they are totally shagged and require replacement - but even this aint drastic or expensive.

...i really would prefer not to but have to consider breaking a std vr. good eninge, the lot. i presume theres people on here that have broke them and many who need parts but how much realistically would you get breaking a complete car?

iv'e got a throttle body std vr 2.9 that anyone can have for £40 to enlarge........

I was - it bounced off my shoulder first, I cringed, realising how close i was to the car, time went into slow motion before i heard the THUD, THUD, CLATTER as it thudded and bounced off the wing twice and then clattered onto the floor thats the only saving grace - it was very close to the bonnet but thankfully not a rear quarter or roof :roll:

is it possible to be mre gutted??? having put all the work into the 'c' and still in the process of putting it back together, an axle stand dropped from above the car where it was hanging in the garage, onto the wing and has totally fcuked both paint and wing. I really, really hate cars at the mo!!!!!!!!!!

£2000 is the price...... it drive really well but i don't know the 18t engine -

I work for the unipart groups and rad's for the 2.0 16v show the same part no as golf 1.8 16v and corrado 1.8 16v - here's a pic I can get these for £85 and carriage for about £10

...thanks for the info - the badge is still there i've just been horrendosly disorganised what with prepping the car for painting and now putting her back together. i'm in the garage this weekend and will try and find it.....

rc's on blue vr - on std stilt suspension - FOR SALE ;) will be trying them on my black car runnig koni coilovers shortly tho

...anyone???

...been offered a rather tidy a3 18t sport for the wife to run about in ( well, when I need to drive it, i'd rather she had something smart ;) ) it's a good price - but - has clocked 150k with full VAG history stamped to 130k Any advice on these motors etc would be appreciated as i'm going to look at it this afternoon.

...on fifth gear this week (wasn't it truely crap, btw! - ibut i'd still not kick VBH outa bed mind ;) ) when tim from soccer am interviewed Al Gore, they showed a clip of cars travelling by and there was a corrado - A98 GHF or A99 GHF - anyone from here? Am I the only sadod who spotted this??????

i am mr lucky at the mo 8)

i have full instructions for the inpro's but haven't actually done it so can't vouch for the info - anyone who tries the instructions below, let me know how it goes. (PART 1 - REMOVING HEIGHT ADJUSTER'S FROM OLD LAMP'S) Their are two type's of adjuster's for setting the beam height electric or manual these angel eyes will take both, When we first fitted them to a corrado we was expecting them to just go on straight out of the box, but that's not the case apparently you have to take your main adjuster's (height). The big white knob on the back of your original light's and fit them to the angel eyes. We have never done the electric one's only the manual one's but we have been told that the electric one's are a piece of cake to do. We will assume your's are manual - look at your original light's when you have them out and you will see there is two strip's that go around the glass carefully press them out to reveal the eightish clip's that joins the glass to the body pop the clip's off from the body side not the glass side or you could chip the glass with a flat bladed chisel when they are all off remove the glass, now turn the white knob from the outside at the base of it and pull and it will pop out but it won't come out at this stage this is where you need a torch and being careful look behind the reflector and you will see the white adjuster goes on to the back of the reflector and is snapped into place with a plastic peg carefully put a screwdriver under the peg lever it until it's clear of the stop and pull the white knob out from the back, If you've done this then it should just come out at the back once you have the headlight adjuster's out put your original lamp's back together the clips just pull on joining the glass and body back together put the clips on the glass first and pull them over the plastic not the other way around or you could splinter the glass put the plastic strip's back on carefully so you don't break the tabs and put them away for a rainy day ( lol ) P.S - Can't remember now without seeing them but it may be possible to remove the adjuster through the bulb cover but if i was you i'd strip them (PART 2 - FITTING ADJUSTER'S TO ANGEL EYES) Now then you will see some white sticking paper round the hole where the adjuster fits remove it there should be a little spring attached to the reflector and clipped onto the body take this off and throw it it's for transporting the light's when they are new, (when we first put these lights on a corrado we striped them down took off that white piece you can see through the hole and put the adjuster straight onto the back of the reflector it looked the part but there was very little movement up and down so it was impossible to set the height of the beams we then put that piece back in and there was loads of height adjustment so don't remove that white thing you can see down the hole it maybe possible if you look at it and way it up to just clip the adjuster on to that without striping the lights down it pushes on and clicks similar to removal if you do it this way then grab the base of the adjuster and push onto the body and twist to lock it into place)

twas all prepped at home with the brother-in-law and sprayed and baked at his works who are insurance repairers - you'll probably know them, james, as their recovery trucks kick around our area - CF recovery.

a shot coming back from the paint shop. lots to do to get it to its best - and the interior is minging!!!!!!! Quite pleased with the results. :)