junkie

How large are the boxes? Usually a little larger than a cigarette packet. Best way buy a set of coaxials. Are you running them off an amp or the headunit? If off the headunit you only have 2 boxes and 2 extra wires. If off an amp you have the above plus the amp, power cable from battery, and a remote cable from the headunit, and your RCA cables, not trying to lose you. If it were me i would ditch the amp, run the speakers with the box off the headunit and tie wrap them somewhere, they are easy to secure.

Rainbow are highly regarded as good speakers and they will definately be a huge improvement over standard, the improvements you get by going to a larger diameter speaker is more mid bass, but by keeping the standard sizes you will get alot more clarity and definition, both should give some good increases in volume.

But if they are behind the dash then whats the problem? You cant see them. All high end set ups have these as they are the best, except some ultra high end stuff which is far out of the reach of most folk. As Kiaran has said they are there so the speakers play dedicated stuff, yes you can get them on amps but to run a set of components that way with the lpf/hpf you would need a 4 channel amp which you would be then running them active not passive which you currently do, it is a better way to do it but costs alot more too. I cant think of a good way by just replacing speakers where its going to be better, coaxials are the same stuff in essence as having a seperate mid range driver and tweeter but mounted on the same unit with cheap resistors to split the frequencies. If the main aim is to remove the crossover box then the only real solution in my eyes is to run them active as above. HTH

Why are you lookung to get rid of the crossovers firstly?

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What astonishing is the fact you managed to drive to the beach without your keys in the 1st place and then realised you didnt have your keys. Hot wired maybe....

With the realy it sticks, so sometimes you get all the stuff and sometimes not, it basically can keep turning the ecu on and the resetting it by going off and so on. It can give lots of weird stuff.

Try the ECU relay 1st.

Some people say the 007 needs servicing but im not sure about the splitr.

The Forge 007 is a closed dump valve so it does not dump to atmosphere hence no psshht noise. The recommended seting on the slpitr is no more than 29 clicks, i found on mine that at the optimal 25 clicks when i lifted from the throttle it was holding the boost a split second too long which made the coming off the throttle gave the car a quick sudden jolt ie it was not smooth, so its backed off slightly to 22 which has smoothed the boost release and driveability. Make sure its fitted the opposite way round too, if you fit it the same way as the original its on backwards. The splitr can be set up 3 ways too, fully closed full boost recirc, part recirc part dump to atmosphere, fully dump to atmosphere, this valve was built for the 20vt to give the pssshhht without upsetting the air mass meter hence its run split 50/50. Set it to 25 clicks to start off with then if its a little un smooth then back it off a couple of clicks, if its making a chatter noise on full throttle then thats not wastegate chatter its the turbo surging forcing compressed air backwards over the compressor wheel which the compressor wheel chops the compressed air up and puts uneeded stress on the compressor blades and will kill your turbo, some people like the noise including me but i wont run it that way either.

Because he is running a bigger turbo when you lift off its the turbo surging but not on full boost so thats ok, you can make yours do that now but only a good idea if on full throttle its not doing it. Just try a Forge splitR i have that and its ok but his looks like a Bailey dump valve, dont know what management your running but if factory then the Air mass meter will be upset if running an open dump to atmosphere for the pssshhht noise and put the engine in limp mode.

Loving how you incorporated the AFR led.

Should have gone monochrome though :lol:

Haha, as much as it puts a smile on my face when i see it i still have no desire to just go out and drive it, i do not miss it one bit, it was not the finished product i wanted as much fun and bloody good it was. It was too soft around the edges. It cant go back on the road, no front brakes, no roll bar, no intercooler, etc and so on. If i can get the engine stuff sold i can then clear some stuff out of the garage for room to work and finish stripping the interior ready for the cage, just no room to do ought now and no free time whatsoever.

Only progress is selling some stuff on. Compared to the pics on the previous page the difference is Intercooler Brembo's :( Innovate Boost gauge All sold. Bought Coxy's carbon bonnet which i still have not had out the box yet, been in the garage 3 weeks :lol: Not sure where i want to go with it, ultimately i want a stripped Audi TT as everything i want is there already, nearly but that will be a hell of alot more work making that as light as possible. Saying that with my doubts everytime i open the garage door it still puts a smile on my face even whilst its still in bits, i am just worried for how much its going to cost that it might not be exactly what i want, where as a stripped hardcore TT will be, either way they would end up costing the same no doubt but i am never going to have the initial outlay for the TT.

I ran 2kw of amp juice on a 1 farad power cap which is half the amount needed but worked fine. I am selling the power cap by the way as you know.

I say "upgrade" to a faster car G60 v VR6 debate in hand as you will want a more capable car speed wise soon enough, but remember it will not sort out your issues in your head, all Corrado's are jinxed each with their own faults etc and will require 3k spending on them lol. Or as has been said 1.8T it, decent engine and QPE wiring kit and it can be done in a wknd for 2k that leaves 1k for a pretty reasonable respray, you dont need the kind of paintwork like you see in the mags or the immaculate finish the show cars have as you will live in fear whilst you own the car.

Your seeing that boost loss as the intercooler was too small and restrictive i suspect, its always good if you can to measure the boost at the compressor discharge and the throttle body, basically before and after the intercooler.

Oh and i run standard but balanced 16v/20v rods not forged jobbies, they are good for 1.5bar all day long so unless your going turbo then there is no need for forged items.

I run 144mm rods and i was told by Jabbasport that its good to do it that way so you can get a better piston design, no idea what or why though, Jabbasport then use JE Pistons at £600ish a set of 4.

If Ibiza they are 305mm discs 4 x 100 and im sure its only the Cupra not the R If its from the Leon they are 328mm discs 5 x 100

Didnt realise they raised that much, last i looked it was 20mm max. Either way they are still not needed and you would guess right at those prices.

You need to keep the size difference between the front and rear, i have a 22mm front Neuspeed on the G60 and 25mm rear Neuspeed, def an improvement doing the front too on a G60. The Neuspeed are also black and rose jointed.

But thats it will flow more air upto the next restriction which will be the valves, if your not changing/working the head then there wont really be much benefit.

At my last count i was circa £20K including buying the car since december 2002, i reckon there has been another 5k on top of that. Approx 10-12k on the engine as things progressed 4-5k on the ICE 4-5k on buying the car blah blah blah My spending is tiny in comparison to ahem cough, somebody on here