sciroccotune

bttt any one have any ideas?>

Or right guys, its offical VW suck!!! got the price for normal lupo arms and they are £30.something each!! so ther is offically no way of getting cheap wipers! stan, you look to have found the best method, i may jsuts try it ;-)

Cheers guys eek! Vw are just crazy with their prices! Ill give them a ring tomorrow and see what they can do, and let you guys know :-)

hey guys, with ref to this post: http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... 0990#40990 how much do normal lupo wiper arms cost from VAG? and wouls i need the same 2x passanger side arms? cheers Edit: This link might be clearer: http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... 561#475561 --Andi

not sure about dis'ing the wires but my 9a has now vac pipe.

yes mine is thge same, late out early in....but i got the 15g tank... such a mix and match :lol:

why not fit normal lupo arms, like from a base model. surely this and those areo blades would work really well?? anyone konw the price of normal lupo arms?

i dont think the rev counter would work. vr haveing 6 cycles etc... However late clocks would physically fit a late car etc

they came in 50mm and 90mm. the later cars having the smaller splitter hth

I see that but i think it looks well at the height it is in the pic, I would just put the back up one position :-) You not think it looks good?

looks nice mate, are those wheels 18 or 17? I would be tempted to go for a more nose down stance by raising the back just a bit :-) edit just seen your sig they are 17 :-)

a 9a should be able to change its timing, I guess if you set the ignition timing to far out it can not retard/advance enough to bring it to the correct place. Also have you checked the knock sensors on front of block? Guess a bad pump can be much help anyway, worth a filter change and check the filter on the in tank pump to (this caused problems for me a while back on a scirocco)

its should only come on when starting the car (then it goes off after a few seconds). It will come on it there is a problem and likly stay on. if yours is coming and going i would suggest you first clean the sensors. can be done by taking off the disks and using a soft wire brush or maybe with carb cleaner or the like from behind the wheel.

it could just be a case of a few leak which can happen as they age, start with thge cheap stuff first like a new filler tank cap and make sure all hoses are secure. Is there any oil in the water tank? if so could well be head gasket etc..

:lol: dont you worry mate, its way better than any other broken part etc... hope it all works out! :-)

i guess something is out of shape, be it the handle or the door...maybe stick up a pic?

That’s correct, they are only held to the door with one screw and the pivot at the other end (non lock end).

the handle is held one with one screw inside the door (on the side) level with the handle itself. you will also need the locking mech which is held on with to allan bolt type things...

I’m guessing, based on your use of new leads, that the coil pack or bad plugs could cause this. Perhaps Increased resistance from the plugs or output from the pack could cause this. Could you try a new pack from someone else with a VR>

sort of, basically you need to hold the inner strut with an alan key (7mm iirc) and use tool os some sort to undo the nut. a deep necked spanner will normally do the trick or a o2 probe socket works too

it will be mate, just make sure you get what you want and dont just accept anything that is close, you will only regret it later good luck!

he was average hight with a moderate to stocky build with short hair which was a light colour. sorry im useless with descriptions :lol: it was out side of derby as i had to get a taxi to the trainstation when i didnt buy the car grrr (must have wasted £90 on train and taxi!!!). As i say mate just keep an eye out. He did have a few for sale at the time also, but i could just have been unlucky

im not 100% sure but this may be the same guy that made me got all the way to see a car from newcastle and it turned out to be a big big dog! it was while ago and he was based near derby is all i remember about the location. basically i told him i was after a car with a really good body and was not to bothered about the motor. he said that the car i wanted to see was in top nick body wise. Turned out that it had one side resprayed badly and must have been in a frontal crash. Also he told me that the early models did not have an auto spoiler! :lol: AS i say im NOT SURE if this is the same guy but just be on the look out as always :-)

Thats a good point! what oil are you using. I use the vw synta 10w40. Its a good oil but maybe a bit thin for an aging 16v when hot. You could try something a bit thicker when hot would that be 10w50 (i can never remember how the number work with oils) my 2l16v uses around 0.5L every 1000 miles (well it used that over the last 995 mile trip i just got back from) edit: the seals cost next to nothing but the work to fit them is hefty. not sure if they can be done with the head on or not..

Hello chaps, I just want to check this on my 2l16v. I have recently changed the Cam belt which I think was slightly out, and I’m guessing that the ignition timing may be slightly retarded so I would like to check. (the car is sunning fine and gives around 30mpg so its probs fine but just want to check) I can’t really find the specific procedure for a 2l (9a), Is it the same as the 16v? Also how do you set the mixture (CO) settings. I take it you can connect an ammeter on the black plug at the side of the metering head and adjust the CO screw to a specific value? Cheers