was8v
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Everything posted by was8v
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I have some alpine 6x4s that fit perfectly and produce good enough rear fill in sound. sxe-4625s Just like these: http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... d/509.html Cheap too. I have VIBE components up front, tweeters in original windscreen loction, and woofers in the doors.
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Anyone else suspect he knew the toyota wouldn't start? Was much better this week than that naff scripted car wash on fire effort repeating a JC video,
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can't help but mine makes a racket too, almost embarassing. Keep meaning to have a look when the door cards off next, but I never get round to it.
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The same happened to me on a peugeot 306. Cost £45 for the whole speedo drive unit, that was all plastic too!
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Well if the car is straight..... surely theres nothing wrong with it? There wasn't a whole lot of damage - just replace / fix a few panels and the glass? Can't be the biggest secret a used car is hiding - still, if I was buying a used GTI, i'd prefer it not to have fallen off the ramps at some point!
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I read the original thread on clubgti - apparently they gave the owner a new car. Then they had the damaged one on an alignment jig and it was spot on, so it has been fixed up and sold on, the new owner probably none the wiser cos it wasn't done via any insurance company.
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Brrrrrm, there is no scrimping going on - my point is that the GM oil is probably the same as synta - it certainly meets the same specs - 10w40 semi synthetic ACEA A2 / A3 spec so why pay more?! Each to their own I guess.
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Ah the mythical (to my dealer) discount...Last time I paid just under £17 Only if you go and pick it up....which is a helluva round trip for some :| Just thought the info may be useful!
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I've just taken delivery of 4x 5L of GM / Vauxhall 10w40 semi synth from this guy: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 4632761816 Oil has the same specs as synta silver, in fact the GM oil comes in the same bottles (but blue and without quantum moulding), smells the same, looks the same colour and tastes the same as synta silver. I suspect it IS synta silver....but at £38 delivered for 20L its a darn site cheaper that £17 for 5l from VW and having to go pick it up. Maybe he'll do a group buy...........(I didnt really taste it)
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BBS RXII as supplied on 16x6.5 format on mk 4's and 16x7 on Mk3 anniversary models. I've been tempted by em a few times, very prone to corrosion of the rim lip. The diameter of the rim is measured where the bead of the tyre sits.
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Everything would be out of date.... bandages would be ok but anything with adhesive on it or the like would be manky :doc:
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Dunno but I got one from Aldi that is a good fit....
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Does the falcon have "heavy" wires for it's starter immobiliser circuit? I'm fitting an immobilser at the moment and the starter circuit red/black wire is a helluva lot "heavier" or fatter than the immobilser I'm fittign, hence I'm worried the immobilser wont handle the current.
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What does this wire do? Plugged into back of fuse box
was8v replied to was8v's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
Thanks for the response. My car is a late '93 coilpack VR btw forgot to mention! The red/orange above wire goes straight through into the engine bay behind the fuse box, having diffuclty tracing it after that cos they are all wrapped up! Anyway I pulled the plug on it and tried starting the car, and it doesnt do what I hoped. I think it must cut the ignition system - the starter still turns the engine over but doesn't fire. I need to cut the starter circuit for a CAT 1 system. Any ideas on where I can cut the feed to the starter relay? The only wire I can identify feeding the starter relay is marked 4.0 R/BK connecting to F/1 behind the fuse box in the diagram below. But this is a FAT wire - much fatter than the immobiliser wires so I cant interrupt that unless I want a fire! any ideas on which smallish wire to interrupt to disable the starter? I can't interpret the diagram well enough to see what to cut! -
a dealer should be able to get you the correct bulb.
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As a note you should fill the coolant via the top hose before reconnecting it, not the expansion tank. I've just renewed my coolant and was advised on here this is the way to avoid air locks on a vr.
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I'm removing a previous immobiliser installation from my corrado and the "immobilisation circuit 1" splits a wire plugged into the back of the fuse box. It is a single wire with a single plug going into point 30 in the diagram of the back of the fuse box. It is Red with a yellow (or is it orange :? ) stripe and is only a small wire. The only reference to point 30 in the bentley is in the other diagram, but that is a red wire that apparently loops round to point 30B. This wire in my car definatly isn't plain red! I'm not much good with the bentley manual - can anyone tell me what this thin wire at point 30 in my car does?
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VR6 died on overrun in 2nd on approach to roundabout.
was8v replied to craigowl's topic in Engine Bay
Got a lift of a mate who is a trained Police driver (in his new mondeo titanium x, yawn), and I noticed he was using the gears to slow the car. He says he was taught to do this on a defensive driving course because it is more efficient than using brakes and ensures you are always in the correct gear to nail it and pull away should the need arise. Surely it results in much more clutch wear though? I do it occasionally at the lights but probably only because the VR sounds so good (sad I know!). -
YAWN! I see 22mpg on the MFA usually, but then I didn't buy a VR for its fuel economy.
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PM user 91davidw on clubgti.com/forum He will do a pair of normal plastic plates with custom graphics / any font for £13.95 to your door.
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go 24v instead of vr6!
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My dad has had a 1991 200TDI Discovery since new. It had 2 new gearboxes (eek!) under warranty, and hasn't caused any trouble since. At 150,000 miles it now needs a bit of TLC - steering is "vague" and tends to wander at motorway speeds (70-80ish mph). This could probably be sorted by replacing all suspension / steering bushes and fitted new swivels, but thats quite an expense. The engine doesn't pull as well as it should - may need some level of rebuild. A younger one would be ideal - although the word is amongst enthusitasts that the 200TDI is a tougher better engine than the 300, although not so powerful or refined. I suspect a younger Jap import Pajero would offer better value for money? but clearly doesn't have the cachet of a real Land Rover.
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Ha - I stay WELL away on bank holidays, the SW lakes gets full of southerners for the weekend driving round at 20mph, lol
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ha, some of us are lucky to live nearby and head into the hills twice a week 8)
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nuts - you weren't tempted by a late dash then?! For the record my alpine 6x4s fit in the standard enclosures without mods.