Sean_Jaymo

Mine is Aqua blue and looks the same as yours. My paint sometimes looks different to adjacent panels in some lights.

I could of sworn that the storms had exclusive colours?

Do you have the paint code on the sticker in the boot? That should at least confirm if you have a Storm colour or not. Seeing as Storms only came in 2 colours which were exclusive to them.

Cheers Sean!

Hi, Is that the VW Parts desk? Yes sir, how would you like it? Gently please, Certainly Sir, Now bend over, i'm coming in dry!

PM Sent!

Vvt is on all 24v lumps :-D It's the BDE lump that has variable exhaust timing as well as the inlet timing on the AUE lump. This is for emissions reasons. The output it the same. It's the coil on spark technology that makes it more appealing to tuners.

Early 4motions were the more simple aue engines, anything after 01 I believe are the more complex bde lumps. None more difficult than others to install if you have the donor car to take all the bits you want. No difference in power outputs even though the later lumps have variable inlet AND exhaust cams. I believe the only difference having the later lumps is emissions based. If you want to turbo or supercharge in the future, more kits, as in 99% are setup for the later versions. I've personally gone for the aue lump as it's simpler and cheaper than any later version with the same output. That and it was the lump fitted to my donor! If you want to just fit it and drive with no huge future plans, just get whatever comes in the donor, so long as it's healthy! I'm sure the 2.8 24v only came in vw 4motions in the UK.

Hi All, I'm back again after being away for a years. I used to have this car, Which I sold onto Ryanmac on here who is doing a good job of keeping her alive and well. I've now gone and bought a new one for fixing up, keeping on the road and upgrading. With this to fit in the future, I need to sort out a few simple things first and figure out what to do about the exhaust downpipe. Cheers all!

It's not always cheaper to buy an engine, loom and ecu. As I said, I was able to see a running engine in a car to be broken and bought the car for 400. Made back 1200 and had the engine, ecu and everything else I needed for free in effect. The 800 profit pays for anything else I need along the way. In my case I bought my rado for 800 so that was free!

He wants to keep his current car I think.

I bought a complete Bora 4 Motion without an interior but everything else and 100k on it for £400. A Bora is usually quite a bit cheaper than the equivalent Golf but mechanically, there is little difference! Took what I needed and sold the rest. The profit is paying for the conversion costs. I'm handy with a spanner so no labour costs involved.

Bolts don't knock, if they do, something is very wrong! Bushes should wear, causing excess movement in the wishbone, at most they might wear the sleeve a bit and knock against the bolt. The bolts are done up pretty tight, 150nm from memory and that should be enough to clamp the sleeve in place and stop any movement. Bolts that have shouldered should not be driven on and be replaced immediately! These bolts take a fair amount of the engine weight and load forces through them and good quality bolts can not be emphasised enough!

You will need the r32 clutch and fly as the 12v versions are smaller than the 24v versions and they are not at all interchangeable. You can fit the transfer box and get an adapter to stop the rear take off drive rotating, but the question is why would you want to go to all that effort if you are going to retain fwd? The 24v stuff is much heavier and more costly to buy and the only extra thing you would have would be a 6th gear. The 6th in those boxes is only slightly longer than a 12v 5th and would like not make a huge difference, especially when you'll spend more time in and out of gears instead of putting the power down.

Always buy bolts from a dealer, they are hardly expensive, especially once ebay crap has delivery on top. You just don't know what monkey metal has been used on "alternative" bolts!

If I had a spare 1500 quid knocking about, then I could be tempted into standalone, but the way my project is going and how lucky i've been on doing deals for bits, the whole project is going to cost no more than that to get to a running stage! Car included! All i'm trying to do is upgrade the car to be more powerful then standard and have it done in such a way that the casual observer wouldn't know anything had been done!

Not normally a fan of Silver Corrados, but yours is lovely! You should rightly be proud of it!

That's a good effort there with that driveshaft! Nailing it out of a pothole or something?! You may run into interior condensation problems in damp weather if you have you foliage cover sealed over and in recirc only mode. The interior needs that to breath. At the very least it's useful to clear away any heavy farts!

Do you have a part number handy? My local dealer isn't the brightest or most helpful! Bless them!

May I be added to the list please?

I never knew you were able to even buy them let alone that they were available from a dealer! I thought the mats were a just-matz thing!

They're not bank dependant, but they are checking lambda values against their own precat lambda sensor so if the gases are mixing into a single cat then the ecu is going to struggle to get accurate figures. I'm sure you'll get everything running there or there abouts, but long term it's going to have adverse effects on the engine and your fuel economy.

Cheers pal, Thanks for not being a normal internetter who's generic response is "search is your friend" Cheers!

United motorsports, who are also C2 motorsports I believe, did the immo defeat along with SAI defeat etc on my ME7 ecu. I asked at the time for rear lambda defeat and I was advised to not get rid of them but when I pressed as to why, I was told that it can affect the running of the car but would not elaborate as to why. Like a dog with a bone, I went looking for an answer and information is sketchy as to the exact methods used by the me7 and it's rear sensors but came to the conclusion the in WOT situations, they are redundant and the pre cat sensors fuel to 14.7 AFR. Under prolonged sustained conditions, such as motorway cruising where you are at less than 50% throttle, temps in a certain range, speed is in a certain range and other parameters that I don't know about yet, then the ECU actually uses the post cat sensors to control fuel to 14.7 AFR. Without these sensors, on motorway trips or normal cruising about normally for example, then the ecu could steer away from the correct mapping on AFR, resulting in poorer economy. I'm not sure why but I'm guesstimating that it could be something to do with lambda temperature difference between pre and post cat sensors. I know it's not the exact answer you were looking for, I know it's not what I was looking for but it is a definitely something that gives me enough reason to keep all 4 sensors and both cats. I'm assuming some tuners get rid of them as they are mainly interested in headline figures and would prefer to keep their lives simpler for the cash. I was thinking of going stand alone but the cost is mainly putting me off and having a "factory" feel is something that is quite important to me. Might change all that though if Ii turn it into a turbo charged track only weapon. But for now...! So... These leave me wondering about downpipes and how!

Who do these then?