fendervg

If you have a small butane torch, a bit of heat can loosen these nicely because the calliper body is alloy. I make a point of never going near these without a proper five or six sided brake spanner or a hollow ratchet socket (Halfords used to do a nice set). Can you hammer a torx/spline bit or driver in enough to allow you to apply enough twisting force to shift it?

Should be fine - I've changed it before on a 02* boxes and usually filled to just above the level of the lip on the fill hole - this usually meant 80-90% of the 2 litres.

Maybe some old oil in there. The gear box also has to be in use a little bit to spread the oil. I'm not sure where you are seeing the oil come out - do you mean somewhere near the shift tower at the front?

Always great to see something like this - easypops has helped me out a few times over the years as well, and always a pleasure to deal with!

Crazy stuff.

Well, mine was just an opinion - not speaking from mechanics experience obviously, just my own car. There was an undertray fitted to the Golf 2 TD/GTD - maybe this could be modified to fit? Or it would be relatively easy to injection mould or press such an item. Personally while I see the attractions of a cleaner engine bay, I'd still like as much cold air getting in there as possible.

I have an old one here, but it's in Ireland, so unfortunately postage and possible customs charges would apply - if you don't get sorted in the UK, but I'm sure you will.

I think you'll find the VR6 suffers from overheating under the best of conditions and the engine bay temps get very high - an under tray would probably restrict the airflow and hence the cooling. Also, the older engines of this era tend to leak a bit of oil, so that would collect there. There were usually two plastic flat air guide pieces fitted on each corner of the front splitter - these usually go missing after the bumper has been off a couple of times.

Here's one - first thing that came up in a search: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-VW-04-06-TT-QUATTRO-OEM-Suction-Pipe-Line-Tube-021115251A-SHIPS-TODAY-/200880979889 But I don't think you really need to replace it if it is in good condition.

Febi should be fine - their parts are usually good quality and they were an OE supplier. No harm changing the pump if you are going to replace the sump. it's handy enough to do. Watch out that you get the correct sump gasket and fixings. You will always end up finding a few small metal shavings in the sump, or on the plug if it is magnetic - bigger bits could be part of the old chain guides.

It’s always mad to see the German mentality for over engineering in cases like this - and then they miss the fact that the engine bay is a huge heat sink and a bugger to work on!

I think the black plastic cover piece in the middle - is it there to protect the wiring from any leaking brake fluid?

Good stuff - I think you should congratulate yourself for having only one mystery bolt left over after a major job like that - I usually end up with a pile of them, and have no end of random ones sitting in multiple Tupperware containers round the house!

If you try the Ford dealer you might get lucky - usually cheaper than VAG as well. Merc used the 2.3 VR6 on some old E series and on vans too, but not sure of the exact models. Bosch, Beru, Valeo and ATE are all good brands if you can find one from them.

Great news that it’s solved! Top(quality-not)ran strikes again. Made by lovingly beaten children somewhere east of the Urals I’m always amazed that Heritage still sell that stuff, but sometimes there is t any other choice.

Ah, you are only teasing people now! But yes - the spares are the best - I managed to get hold of a complete set including cables and got my roof repaired - then the motor went and had to be replaced.

In my experience, having seen both Corrado and Mk3/Passat mechs apart, they will all eventually break in the same way - usually snapping of the left cable guide. Next most likely thing to go is the motor - you can check if the mech operates smoothly using an allen key and the small drive wheel in the motor underside. Most of this is down to lack of maintenance and lubrication - I read somewhere that the lube spec changed at one point and the service interval increased. As said above - most second hand Corrado ones will be nearly dead already, this is why people go for the replacement upgrades or try to make up a working unit. The Passat one is the best fit to the curvature of the roof. There is a project ongoing currently on the Corrado FB group to reproduce the left and right cable guides, and I believe they are nearly at prototype stage.

Interesting - was looking at these a few years back. Some of them seem to have a nearly 90 degree bend on the solid pipe section, others not as much - I wonder if this makes any difference when fitting?

Ha ha - rear emblem for a monster truck Corrado? Or some garage mood lighting?

Sebrings are where it's at - pity a 5 stud version would look all weird around the centre cap - but definitely one of the best on a G60/16v.

Good to see you back. Yeah, it’s not too busy around here unfortunately - seems like most seem to prefer free of charge misinformation to actual Corrado knowledge. This reminds me I should be updating my own car thread - I always forget! It will be coming out of lockdown soon, not started in at least six months so I’m afraid there will probably be plenty wrong. I’ve already noticed some nasty little rust bubbles.

Well, they're not expensive, probably cheaper than a new gasket from VAG, but I really don't think they will make a noticeable difference, and a claimed 3% power increase won't be detectable and is within the margin of error of any rolling road. I guess you could use VCDS to compare the intake mani temp readings before and after fitting these. They would probably last longer than the original style gaskets. Sounds to me like more of the oiled filter and eco valve snake oil, but I could be wrong. At the price, it could be worth a shot.

Thanks for that. I'm sure things will work themselves out over time somehow - I usually buy new stuff direct from Classics or Germany, sometimes via eBay, and I think Heritage are working out some way that they can ship from within the EU. Even gifts and second hand items attract Mr Custom Man's attention - the limit on gifts is around £45. It's ridiculous now that if someone sends you on something at cost or just postage (something that often happens on this brilliant forum) that you end up paying extra on top. It especially bad as there are so many RHD specific parts and the UK was the largest RHD market and the best in terms of cars being broken. Such a shame - I'm into lots of things apart from the Corrado and other old cars - bikes (pedal and engined) guitars, film cameras, binoculars, camping, radio and electronics and there are so many small, high end engineering outfits in the UK that turn out great product of an amazing quality that are now locked out of a global market. In some cases, these are items that are literally made no where else. Ah well, as above, these things will sort themselves out and a way will be found.

Yeah, had quite a few bits off Chris over the years - sad to see him gone, he was tops to deal with. The Graveyard I have never heard anything good about - maybe if you went to collect in person you might have some luck. Being based in Ireland, I'm now really stuck - as even second hand parts will attract VAT and customs when coming from the UK, which is the unfortunately the best source of RHD parts. Don't know what I am going to do, and will probably not end up buying unless I really need it for an urgent fix, rather than for future plans and insurance. Here in Ireland there are only two reliable sources I know of - and they rarely get a VR6 in.

Definitely not a problem with the factory or aftermarket immobiliser? Some of them have dual cut-outs, on the fuel pump circuit and also on the ignition. The hall (or cam) sender is to the right and slightly above the coil pack, looking from the passenger side - IIRC held in by a single or maybe two hex/allen boltes. There will be a 3 pin plug going to it from the main ECU/engine loom - should be straightforward swap.