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I had a similar thing with my valver. There are two pumps, one in the tank and the other hung off the rear right floor pan next to the filter so it could be either of them causing the problem. My external pump was always noisy but eventually got louder and eventually became intermittent with total loss of engine power (not much fun when going quick in the fast lane) The new one runs much more quietly although is still quite auduble. Just my 2p

Thanks for the thoughts guys, Henny - that's an interesting possibility, I hadn't considered that initially since everything else at the 'ign on' point seems to working. Hopefully getting some wiring info from supercharged which will help me no end. Kevhaywire - haven't measured that but don't think its a pump overcurrent problem as the relay not holding occurs with the pump disconnected; and I'm pretty confident the pump is ok. That might indicate an overcurrent problem if the wiring is damaged so will have to look into that. Don't know what it should draw, but at least I can compare it with the other car :) Like the new avatar Roddy - sorry to hear that. It will be interesting to see whether we have the same fault. Anybody know exactly what was wrong with James Shillaw's on CCGB EGM day?

Oh look - another RR day thread :D Kev, Now I look at your avatar closely I can make out the actual colour at the front, rear of the car is in shadow . Have a look at Problems for my trip home :(

So after a great day at Stealth Racing Rolling Road day I end up getting home tied to the back of an AA van :lol: ha ha ha What I need is some gen on the VR6 (1995) from anybody who has details of the wiring. It was running fine till I stopped at the local shop, got in again and she wouldn't start. Turning over fine but wouldn't fire. Bit difficult because of background noise but couldn't hear the fuel pump, all fuses ok so assumed it had died. Anyway, tonight's check results: Fuses ok Relay 12 swapped with spare makes no difference. Fuse box, relay removed, pin 6 on box (relay pin 30) reads 12.5v Replace relay and check volts at the plug on top of the tank: turning ign on the voltage momentarily up to 7v then immediately drops to 0v; then cranking engine the voltage reappears at 10v Remove relay and jumper the power from pin 6 on the fuse box direct to the pump socket (other pin earthed) and the pump runs fine with an indicated voltage of 11.6v and engine starts and runs fine. Suspect the relay control voltage, replace relay and when switching ign on can feel the relay come in then drop out (can also hear it). Remove relay and check voltage on fuse box pin 2 (relay pin 86) and get 11.9v with ign on (the voltage stays there while ign is on), and 9.9v cranking engine (Repeated this on the 16V and got 12.16 and 9v respectively. This is weird. I am now thinking that there may be a high R on the earthy side of the relay winding and this is where I need a wiring diagram. Can someone please tell me which plug on the back of the fuse box connects with relay 12, and what the pin out wiring colours are? Or perhaps, is there some naughty thing in the supply line between the ign switch and the relay that I don't know about? Cheers guys

Nice pix Dave, I expect there will be more up soon - unless there is another thread somewhere. Great day out & meet all you guys; many thanks to funky for doing all the admin. Well after thrashing the ole vr on the rollers I had a good run home -- almost. Did the last few miles tied to the back of an AA van How :oops: is that Story under Problems - Dead Fuel Pump

lol man, that looks sooooo kool I can't see you wanting to drive anything else ant :lol:

:oops: Actually it's me should be embarassed. I owe the other party an apology, I mixed this up with another thread - hit and run down the side. Sorry

Robbo, You will have to remove the caliper carriers before you can take the discs off. They are held on with allen head screws on the inboard side of the backplate and can be a real pig to shift. Strongly advise you get new ones before you start the job, they are only pennies. Don't even think about using the old bearings, it just isn't worth it. You may also want to think about replacing the ABS rotors as well, they are a push fit onto the back of the disc but you can deform them by trying to remove, they are also cheap. Helpful hint - use the old bearing outer cages as a drift to knock the new ones into the disc.

A possibility. I have had similar missing from my 16V after its been left standing for a while - turned out to be dirty plugs. Cleaning sorted it for a while, but a proper new set fixed it.

Andy, I've got pagid fast road on standard front discs; you will no doubt remember how they worked :shock:

Joe, Non comprendez, what are you trying to say?

Ant, Can't believe what I've just read, you must have just about used up all your bad luck by now tho' Keep us posted on progress matey

Can't do a write up, but the ribbon problem can give a variety of fault symptoms. Cost me £43 odd to have fixed by an auth dealer.

Excellent news. Churchill eh. You could try letting the dog out to track down the moron who hit you :lol:

staying at roswell were you?

Bummer. The only good news is that he didn't total you head on going faster. Am not allowed to write what I think of these sort of 'people' :evil:

Hi Jim, nice to see you too mate. I more than kept up, Julian and I ended up with a one all draw :D Yes it was a good day apart from all the hanging about due to oil spills :( only got 3 runs in but very pleased as consistent and much better than last time out Managed to miss meeting Jason, I would have liked to have seen his masterpiece

Bally, I think the one you saw will be from Corsham. I've met him but he's not on here. His plate is Gxxx STA

Andrew, I posted about the 'wrong end' problem a while ago on my VR6 - not many people came back on it. Goodridge did replace very quickly with the right set when asked tho'

OK, yeah I remember being highly amusing (not) by suggesting you put oil in it. Let us all know whether this gets the problem

Jim, I know you are saving up but you could always buy a map :D Or go here: http://www.streetmap.co.uk/ :lol: Ant, OK I'll meet you at Tod

:shock: but how is the car going?

The other thread probably answers the questions, but just in case. The arm nuts are 13mm. The blades are the same length but different part numbers (driver and pass side) because the pick up points for the arms are at different positions, but use two driver's side arms. Very effective mod; anyone not done it yet I can only suggest you do very soon.

sounds more like put a new screw in cos the old one fell out :lol:

Diss the battery & then either unlock manually with the key or pull the pin up. Then you can get at it and with any luck sort out whats gone wrong