Supercharged

Just check the engine code... AJM = 115PS ASZ = 130PS ARL = 150PS Jim can probably put how the TDI badge next to the above? - I can't quite remember but I think ours are red D and I...

What car do you have?? It depends what interior you have, early or late as there are 2 types available (or not anymore as the case maybe...)

What a shitter! Check yer insurance and break the front screen if it's not perfect then get them both done under the excess if you can...

Best get VW as the car wasn't made in Wolfsburg... :wink:

They go as the motor looses lubrication, gets old and draws more current... Maplins do the fuses for about 49p I think...

I'm sure it's just to do with cost... the dealers usually mention it when you buy a waterpump or stat for an old car but some aren't as good as others...

Be careful as there were 3 different sizes of CAT on Corrado's so best to measure yours first to check you get the right one...

Sure it's the resister and not the thermal fuse?

Yeah, don't buy GSF/ECP tanks... The cap will be about the same price at the dealers if you get good discount... I'm not sure of the quality of the Halfords ones...

So it'd the sensor housing not the thermostat housing? It's about £15 from VAG an best to by new bolts and O rings as well... the new one may also have an extra outlet at the bottom so make sure they give you the blanking plug and extra O ring and clip... (they should check this but you never know!) also worth changing both sensors as well if they are still original... If your using the rubber OE hoses then I'd advise going back to the standard VAG clips as they tighten to the correct torque... it's so easy to overtighten a jubilee onto plastic and they go brittle and warp with age so it would have broken it easily..

Always replace the plastic parts when doing anything on the cooling system, they go brittle and warp with age so changing the O rings is not enough!

Get the chassis number and get a VW dealer to check it...

Nope, late cars were much higher than the early ones... standard Storms are a good example of this...

Dealers if you want a good quality OE one... otherwise Halfords...

Yeah - I'm in....

I think Kev means when changing cams - not normally done on a timing chain job...

Check all your fuses first...

Ah - do you mean the recent VR6 episode? (not Tiff driving the last Storm to Wolfsburg)

Less than 3 for a competent garage i'd say, obviuosly does take time tho as the manifold and cam cover need to come off so there is a fair amount of stuff to strip down and build back up again, have you had different cams put in?? I ask because the wheel would normally only break if the cam pulley had been off which it wouldn't if you just had the chains done...

The lock has to be like this - to work... If the CL isn't locking/unlocking it, check the rod as RW1 says, sometimes the white clip falls out and sometimes the rod comes off the actuator as it's only held on by a plastic clip...

Rob_B, I'll ask my mate about a new bottom end next week - I think they are about £700 but now sure if that includes pistons or not...

Get the wheel off, give it a clean and have a look at it... see if you can see a make and also check the condition of the bumpstop, top mount and also look for oil around the piston... If lowering springs have been put on standard shocks then that will have accelerated the wear, especially if they are the originals... You need to assertain what they are tho to replace but ideally you want to do a pair together... if your unsure I'd get a pair of Koni or Koni TA rears from Halfords etc, not expensive and are height adjustable via circlip to match the fronts...

I think Stealth charge £550 plus vat for a standard rebuild - I doubt fitting that would be much ontop tho but best check with Vince... The above is just to do the box, if you want to drive in/out then add the price of a clutch change ontop of that... not cheap!

If not you can remove the splined adapter with a 3 legged puller...

There is one with 15k I think...