seanl82

Wise mechanic there mate. The ones that go up into the lower chain cover could have been too long and either prevented a seal, or worse still stripped the threads as it's aluminium.

Also the alum key bolt set that VW International advertise for the VR6 Corrado sump are to long and luckily my mechanic noticed this and could of threaded the housing for the sump which would of been a nighmare Ive got to send them back ! Just so you're aware Keyo, early VR6s came with a fibre sump gasket so needed shorter Allen bolts. The late ones came with a thicker rubber gasket so needed the longer bolts which are probably the ones they sent you. Well done with the work you've done, cracking effort in such a short space of time! There are a few on here that have the Borla exhaust from who you mention and they rave about it. I've got a jetex non resonated and I think it's absolutely perfect. As long as it's fitted well, the vast majority will be good though

Hi Josh, Glad you've enjoyed owning it so far, and sounds like you have longer term plans which is great! In terms of performance, there isn't a huge amount you can do without spending an absolute fortune. Its all about air in and out with the VR6, so air filter, cams, remap, exhaust, and inlet manifold (Schrick or VWM VSR) is all you can really do unless you go forced induction. The things I've listed are price ascending (with the VSR silly money now) and all will compliment each other. Dependant on what you do, a remap at the end will tie it all together nicely and get the best out of it all. I think those that have all of the above achieve about 225bhp so not a huge increase in power, but responsiveness after a filter, exhaust, cams and a remap are best from what I've read, though I can't comment from experience.

If you check in the bottom right corner of the listing on each item, it tells you if its a genuine classic part or aftermarket. Worth calling as you get forum discount as well, and you won't pay shipping if ordered through them rather than direct from classic parts. The downside is that they only get their deliveries every 3 weeks or so, so dependant on when you make the order and their next scheduled shipment you could be waiting a while for it to arrive.

Door pins and surrounds for the later cars. Think I mentioned them on the other post as well

There are a few “spare” connectors back there. Generic looms for additional extras or requirements in different markets. I know there are a couple of 1 or 2 pin connectors not required but can’t say 100% which colours they are.

In all honesty, that damper doesn't do much apart from push the tailgate up a touch when you press the button/lock in, so you can pull it up. I doubt this will have been cause for a broken seal though.

You're right, sorry the clue was in the title with regard to the engine. (KR). The looms are pretty different though as ancillaries use different connectors, and the headlight loom would need hacking to get it to fit anyway, so other than using OE cables,in my opinion really doesn't offer any benefit over an aftermarket kit with the correct plugs already attached.

Uh, Mk2 Golf had completely different engines, ancillaries and management, so I don't think that will work. The Mk3 Golf lighting loom would have to be hacked to death too as it would follow a completely different route and use different connectors so unless you build one from scratch, an aftermarket relayed one is your best option

Could be flat spotted, but check to see if they roll freely by hand. It may be that they just need a clean and grease. If your windows rattle when wound down, chances are they're past it though.

Everything that's powder coated from factory! It's not as expensive as you might think, I had all my items done for under £200 in nylon coating which is apparently harder wearing. Everything from rad support, rad fan shroud, cross member, bonnet stay, and all the brackets I could think of so it all looked uniform. Well worth doing at least the bits that are looking a little worse for wear.

Yeah but the badges and colour coded grille add 10 bhp. Fact!

New wheels..... If they're protruding from the arch but you need 23mm spacers just to clear standard brakes, you have the wrong offset wheels. 17" wheels with 205/40 tyres require an offset of around ET35. What's the offset of the wheels you have on now?

Good work! If you've got children and ever want to fit them in the back, don't get a Mini! I've had a few as hire cars and actually really rate them for driving, but I'd never had passengers in the back. I was looking for a new car in December so actually looked at the Mini, but I actually looked at it practically this time. I'm only 5.10" and there was absolutely no way even my young kids could get in the back with me driving. The seat was almost all the way back and about 4 inches from the rear bench, so unless you get a 5 door Clubman (even the 3 doors are atrocious for rear legroom) then look elsewhere. Incidentally, I bought a crap French car in the end (2015 Pug 308), and since about the second week of driving it, I've regretted my decision!

An impact driver is your best option Cluffy. Get them up to a decent amount so they won't move from the correct position, and lower the car to the floor. That way all the weight it on the top mounts so they should tighten a bit easier with the mounts not spinning. Mole grips with a folded rag over the teeth and attached to the damper shaft may also help it stop spinning a little. Good luck!

I had lightly tuned early 16v before my VR6 and I did like it I must be honest. I test drove a late 2.0 16v prior to buying it, and I thought it felt awfully underpowered. the early (1.8) 16v needed a good thrashing to get the best out of it, as like the VR6 it had a power band at about 4k rpm but really went well from there. They're lighter and as its narrow track as well, it really handled well. Unfortunately the Range Rover won with that one though. :(

Rob, I think the wiring follows the loom as it comes down the RH side of the centre console, so may be worth poking your hand around that area to find it mate

Yes but charger rebuilds every 30-40k miles depending on state of tune, compared to chain replacement once in the engines lifetime is the difference

Welcome along and good luck with your search! Bit quiet on the forum at the moment but give it a month or two and aeveryone who has had their car tucked away for the winter will come flooding back! Have a look in the wiki section for a good buyers guide and some helpful hints and tips. :thumbleft:

If you don't think there much power in the VR6 you'll be sorely disappointed in the others. The G60 may feel a little more torquey low down, but it won't be in reality unless it's very highly strung. If your after serious power, find a supercharged or even better, turbo charged VR6. Hope you have deep pockets though

My rad support was exactly the same. I had it nylon coated which is apparently more hard wearing, but just like paint it seemed to be thinner on the edges so began to go there. It wasn't bad as it hadn't seen a lot of road time, but I just used some hammerite smooth after rubbing it down a bit to get the layers up at the edge

Original shocks are oil filled. The Bilstein B4 are gas filled but modern gas filled struts are pretty close in comparison.

Yeah the Corrado ones are OE from Classic parts, the mk2 ones are aftermarket SSP ones. Cheap as chips those, good find.

Ok, I retract my statement, I didn't notice it was for the pair. :bonk:

Or get them from the UK cheaper............ https://www.vwheritage.com/corrado/corrado-brakes/rear-brake-calipers-discs-pads#page=1&top=1994& PM Anna on here as she works there, and get the discount code for a bit more off too.