seanl82

I do, but its boxed up and not quite sure where ready for our house move on Monday. If you get stuck and can wait til late next week, I should be able to dig it out and post it up to you mate.

Sorry bud, others are right. At first glance it looked like a mesh of wires from the unterminated part of loom you have. Sorry if it caused undue panic!

Piece of wee wee. Remove runner trim, slide seat back and undo bolt on the centre runner. Unplug loom from the Base of the seat and put an old rag or towel down on top of rear mats, slide all the way back and bobs your uncle!

First pic shows wires going into your cam cover. Certainly should not be there! I'd recommend taking your cam cover off to check for damage to your tappets and valve seats if anything has dropped in there. Either way, it's not good. Second is the throttle damper. It's there so when you Throttle returns to idle, it acts as a buffer to avoid sharp decreases in revs and cutting out. It shouldn't go all the way up, but should push down slightly with a bit of force.

Best of luck with the sale, I'd imagine it should go quite quickly at that price!

Ah right. All it does is recycle the smoke so could cause a little more. Some put a small filter on (get em for a couple of quid on ebay), but that causes the oil smoke to vent into the bay and then through the vents. You should be able to get one relatively cheaply second hand if you want to re-instate it though. I think they're quite expensive for what they are new.

Need a price mate.

Ok for clarity, yes its the PCV valve plug, but its not needed. If you look where it plugs onto in the pic above, there are no pins! Its not required on UK cars, but the plug is there on the loom regardless as its more cost efficient for VW to produce a standard loom for all cars, rather than ones specific for different markets. How that works for LH and RH drive cars I'm not sure, but thats the way it is.

Those go to a blanking plug on the throttle body. It's a sensor not required on UK cars so there will be no adverse affect with them not connected, but I'd tape them up at least so it doesn't short.

Me too, although I'm looking at the whole underside! I had a quick look at the website as well. I put drive shaft bolts in and they're almost £2 each. You need 12 of em! :eek:

Yeah I was pretty happy with it. The paint shop I used outsource the windows, so may have got them to remove them all too........... In fact, I think they did and it was £60 to remove and £60 to re-fit, as I was pretty shocked it was so cheap. They did a great job too, although I wish I'd suggested they "accidentally" broke my windscreen as I think its the original and pretty chipped.

Rob, the bodyshop should be able to remove them all prior to paint so that'll be included in their quote, but I paid £120 + VAT (£144 total) to have all mine refitted after respray.

So glad you're doing this! I think off side is available but near side is obsolete. Good stuff, thanks Anna!

The R32 rear Wishbone bush is well recommended, lots have fitted them and are happy.

Under the airbox? if so, its the charcoal canister. It can be removed, but you'll need to plug the lines iirc. Have a search as I'm sure its been covered before.

What about the other 8 you have! :lol: If you happen to come across a hoard of N/S front dust shield, I'd have one too! :thumbleft:

Really hope the road test goes well John, love to see this!

Happy to hear this Jim, it was almost comical but in a bad way how just how much trouble you've had. Glad this is something you're now happy with and the problem was simple and a free fix! Fingers crossed you've finally turned a corner! :thumbleft:

Late Aqua Blue Valver this morning at about 9.30 at Collingwood retail Park. Was in mine and gave a rev as I came up behind. Looked very tidy!

You'd need KR or ABF Cams too to achieve those sort of figures.

You could probably get a bare block R32 for that kind of money too. You could buy a mk4 Golf 20vT with reasonable mileage but shot bodywork for less than a grand, then part out interior and other bits I know of plenty of people that have done this, and ended up in profit with a free engine transplant. Bear in mind you'll need the looms, Ecu, etc etc. Have a look here fore more info on what you'd need. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?36117-The-Forced-Induction-20V-Thread

You should be able to source a replacement 9A very cheaply. Unless its had both bottom and top end rebuild, £900 is an awful lot of money! Your other option and done loads of time is a 20vT from a mk4 Golf, Seat Leon, Audi TT, etc etc........ A much more refined engine and if you go for the Leon CR or TT with a K04 Turbo, your at 225bhp already. Bear in mind that the newest of these is more than 12 years old now too, so if you go this route then choose wisely. Personally, and if you're thinking of resale value further down the line, I'd stick with a 9a, and it should be the most economical repair too.

I've booked into a premier Inn in Leeds. About half an hour away, but better than getting up at 4am to travel the 4 hours up! I can wash the car first thing then too, so should be a much more relaxing daythan having 2 tired whinging kids in tow!

Ha, great minds and all that Jim!

When the key is turned to start, try wiggling it a bit. Its usually a sign of faulty ignition switch but I've experienced the same with a new switch too. I think it may have been down to a worn key but not 100%