dinkus

L337 or more commonly 1337 as in "LEET" as in Elite, as in you are so damned cool that you're elite. Or a bit of a tit... :lol:

I've not got ETKA to hand at the moment, but that link says: X2B = National sales program Great Britain B0N = Component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Great Britain, various parts C5K = Alloy wheels 9J x 19 H1V = Tires 225/45 R17 J1L = Battery 280 A (60 Ah) M1M = 6-cyl. gasoline engine 2.9 L/140 kW VR6 Motronic, closed-loop catalyt. converterbase engine is T6Q Q1D = Sports front seats 1AE = Electronic differential lock (EDL/ABS) 1G9 = Space-saving spare wheel for temporary use, radial tire (5-hole) 1MW = Leather steering wheel 3AE = Right exterior mirror: flat, electrically adjustable and heated T6Q = 6-cylinder gasoline engine 2.9 L unit 021.D 3FD = Electric sliding/pop-up sunroof 9BA = W/o additional electric safety package 9HA = Without additional malfunction display 9C2 = Without special low beam mode but with "coming and leaving home" function 8GM = Alternator 70 A 8RL = 6 speakers (passive) 8TD = Rear fog light for driving on the left 8BF = Halogen headlight for driving on the left 8WD = Integrated front fog light 1BA = Standard suspension/shock absorption You'll also have the 4-digit paint code and should also be a code for the interior cloth trim too...

Neuropolitical and it's available to download along with the CF logos from the cryptically named "Official CF font and logo" thread in Forum Announcements - viewtopic.php?f=18&t=34173 :D

Hehe, well as shawshankkid is getting the normal CF ones made up, it'd be cool if he could get some "my other car's a Corrado" ones made up too... :lol: That way you could buy one or both of them as a set. Deffo think they'd be a laugh though 8)

Diameter wise, you won't fit anything bigger than a 312, possibly a 315 if there is such a thing under there. However, I don't think there's a huge amount of clearance behind the As, so exactly what callipers you can squeeze under there is going to be a bit of a trial and error exercise...or at least an extremely careful measuring exercise. You'll need to take measurements of the inside dimensions of the wheel to see how far out the callipers can stick before you get any fouling, then obviously repeat the measurements on the callipers and carriers too...

Might help if you said what diameter and offset your Borbet As are... ;)

You really do need to get out a bit more :lol:

It's all in the V-Pages section of ETKA. What codes have you got and I can look them up...

Yup, from the sounds of things a single Spal fan is more than sufficient cooling even for a 'charged engine...

C&R will sell you brand spanky new ones, but if you've got the time, you might as well buy some junky ones off a scrapper Mk4 and rebuild them yourself. Get yourself a new nipple, calliper repair kit, new pin boots, a wire brush and some calliper paint or Smoothrite. Far cheaper and just as good end result :)

IMHO there are 4 colours of Corrado that can pull of black/dark grey wheels (in order of how good it looks :lol: ) Red Yellow White Black I think the rimmage would look damned sexy. As for suspension - what has it got on it now? Is it just standard stuff? I think you're going to have issues with the end of your driveway whatever you do, so I'd go with getting some wood/ramps to smooth it out made up and then get whatever suspension you like :D

Dom, yep thats the part that I bought and is a direct swap for the 4 cyl wishbone bushes and I assume it's the same for the VR, the hole in the middle of the bush is smaller but the bolt fits fine so you just do away with the sleeve you get with the original setup (this part seems to be missing from the manuals and altho it shows on ETKA it's 'part number unknown') Grand, chars.

Yeah, I can see why it might seem like a waste of money, but you'd be amazed at how much they can tell you and get you driving much quicker :) It's certainly the cheapest £ per second improvement you can spend on the car!

Ah nutsacks. I've just bought all the aforementioned bits plus a whole bunch more from TPS for considerably more than that. If they're genuine VAG parts, that's an absolute bargain though! The timing chains alone cost more than that here...

is that basically you paying the instructor £25 to sit in your car and him give you advise on how to take corners? That's exactly what it is :)

Good stuff 8)

Just to add to the above: Don't do a track day with new tyres - the big thread knobbles will get ripped off your expensive new tyres... go with some half-used, but not completely shagged ones (you'll use up to 4mm of tyre tread if you're really pushing along at a track day... probably far less if it's your first time out). Make sure your brakes have plenty of meat on them and come in every 2 or 3 laps to let them cool down - find a flat spot to stop and don't put the handbrake on - you'll warp the disks. If you stay out too long, you'll overheat the brakes and either boil the brake fluid and burst a pipe, or if you've got braided hoses more likely set the brakes on fire! You'll know when they're starting to get hot because you'll get brake fade (either spongey pedal or not as much happening when you push the pedal). If you've got ABS - don't use it :D It's ok to let it kick in every now and then, but that's all it was designed for. If you ride the ABS on every corner, you'll boil your brake fluid even quicker and possibly cook the ABS pump too. The perfect braking force is juuuuust before the ABS kicks in. Alternatively, you can pull one of the ABS plugs on top of the front turret which will disable the ABS completely. You'll know if it's disabled because the ABS light will come on. Lastly, but by no means least - change the oil relatively shortly before hand so you've got some nice fresh stuff in there for when you're thrashing the engine... then get it changed again fairly shortly afterwards - the heat will start to break down the oil and it won't do a very good job. Other than that, have fun :D

So I'm just going through the process of re-bushing the front of my C... can anyone confirm that the below parts are correct for a VR? (and are they the same for all Corrados?) Rear of front wishbone (the donut bush which is really the only one you can/should swap): 357407182B According to ETKA, that part number is the part from the Audi TT. The R32 wishbones are completely and utterly different and don't have the donut bush.

Needs more ferret. Or stoat :lol: You had a far more productive day than I did...

Yup - there will be a red wire and a yellow wire coming out of the back of the head unit and going into the ISO socket. They will have bullet connectors on them, so all you have to do is swap them around. So if they're red->red and yellow->yellow now, you swap them so they're red->yellow and yellow->red. Easy :D

That's a sweet picture! 8)

Talking of bell ends (well, bell housings) - could you get a cool pic of the VW logo on the bottom of the gearbox? :)

Any thread with a title like that was just asking for a dogging reference :lol:

Yes, I too enjoy combining my "hobbies" of messing around with Corrados and dogging.

Thanks guys - sounds like I'll go with the Febi chains. The price difference between TPS for pukka VAG parts and Febi parts for the rest of it is fairly minimal, so I might as well go with VAG.