dinkus

But GSF and euro. can get BOGE and Blistein, surely they are just as good, if not better, than the standard VAG ones?? :? There was a biiiiig discussion on this a few weeks ago on here, but I can't say personally what difference it makes because I don't know. I just went for the VAG ones, which are made by Sachs (on the VR at least).

How about the huge number of Golf and Passat parts that make up the C, they're all used somewhere else ;)

I've heard that the BOGE ones aren't quite as good, but how much difference it makes, etc I can't comment on. I just went to VAG and got em, IIRC you may even be able to wangle a parts club discount on the shocks.

My VR has the standard shocks on the back that are currently leaking oil :roll: the new ones don't cos the earth from VAG though. I would suggest you do get proper VAG ones, rather than from the likes of GSF cos they're pants. I got my new bump stops from GSF though. If you're in there it's also worth changing the top spring plate as it apparently rusts away and is only a couple of quid. I'm also going to do my springs while I'm in there. They look ok, but I'm sure 10yrs of use will have softened them considerably by now. Besides, I'd rather take it all apart and do it the once, then I know I have a completely new suspension setup. Just my 2p :)

Damn shame that :lol:

Yup, they do bumpstops too. I've gone for proper VAG stuff on my car, but where there's a cheaper, just as good alternative I've gone with GSF parts.

Yup, I did mine up with a torque wrench to the right setting and then undid them with the wheel brace with no problems. If you haven't got a torque wrench, then just use the brace. If you do them up with the brace, then you know you can get them off again :D Edit: I'd make sure you get a nice load of copper slip on the back of the wheel too, it'll make getting the wheel off again easier, if a little messy.

I got mine from GSF, who were the cheapest for my VR

You shouldn't really do wheel nuts up with an air gun anyway cos you'll never get the feckers off again if you should get a puncture and only have the toolkit wheel brace...

:roll: always read the small print. At least you're getting all your money back, even if it does mean they have it for a week

Yup, that is one rather tasty looking C, top job :D

LOL, can't beat that but it's a good show of the Corrados longevity 8) Mine's coming up to 99K. Bought it with 73 on the clock, meaning I've done 26K in 18 months.......20 of those K purely joy ride miles :lol: Yeah but the mileage on yours is pretty much irrelevant because there's not an original piece of car left! "I've had this same broom for 30yrs...but it's had 14 new heads and 10 new handles"

Mine rattles around that rpm, but only when the engine is under braking... I'll get under there and have a look at some point...

lol sorry, that was a bit more offensive than intended. I was implying you've got to be nuts to drive a bike on the road... Ive seen how people drive and personally I'd rather have a big box of steel around me. If you're on a track, then it's a different matter... 8)

I thought it was part of the bike test that you had your brain removed first?

*cough* emoticon :norty: Edit: dammit you beat me to it... no wait, I just need to get back in my box

:shock: :shock: that's over DOUBLE what I paid for mine from my $tealer!!

Are they the same as the new R888's? They're Toyo's new ones that are supposed to be better then the T1's... anybody tried them? They do look a little slick to be any good in the wet though http://www.toyo.co.uk/index.php?fuseaction=car.R888

You sure!??! Does this mean there is actually something you can get from VAG that is cheaper than somewhere else?!?! Blimey.

Err if they are the same type, or near enough, why don't you just use the Lupo ones?

Having wedged my 6'2 frame into the back of a C fitted with similar bucket seats and race harness I can vouch for the seats being near to useless. I would leave them in though because they kill the noise and they're useful to put stuff on. They also keep prying eyes out of the boot (trunk).

I was thinking that, but what with C's overheating enough as it is I thought that would just be a bit over the top. :D

I'm more worried about the coffee table to be honest :lol:

If you do replace the cable, could you take pics for the how-to site please? :D

It now explains the need for the Shrick... you've put so much sodding dynamat in your C it now needs the Shrick to get back up to the same power:weight as a standard one :lol: