fendervg

I'd say these could do the trick on the Lupo arms - 475mm for the driver's side and 500mm for the passenger, which is 30mm less than the Lupo standard passenger side and the ones that come in the A928S pack - assuming the hinge position is correct. https://www.windscreenwipersdirect.co.uk/ap19u-bosch-aerotwin-multi-clip-19-475mm-158.html https://www.windscreenwipersdirect.co.uk/ap20u-bosch-aerotwin-multi-clip-20-500mm.html and works out at half the price of buying from VAG.

Cool - so they have the exchange rate spot on for once. Have ordered two over here as well.

Is it the knurled knob of the adjuster that breaks, or the white plastic clamp thing that sits on the end of the ball joint/screw? I have a nice set of electric adjusters stashed away, and they have a manual dial for adjustment as a backup.

If the outer housing is old, it might compress enough with the clip on to make the inner cable hard to move.

I've seen people use cable ties successfully, but that won't give the slight movement that's needed.

VAG here in Ireland claims to have 6X2955426A available at €23.10 per blade incl VAT - might give it a punt and see.

It might be the little metal clips that secure them each end have come off. If the outer cable is not fixed, the inner can't act on the levers etc. You might also find that a cable that appears to move freely when removed will not move easily when it is bent or clipped in place - in that case the best bet is to get new ones if you can.

There is a gasket I think, but not really needed. The airbox should be held in place by 2-4 (can't remember exactly how many) rubber loops that hook onto the casing and the engine bay area behind the headlight - you should be able to see these if you have a hunt for them. This allows the airbox to "float" a bit while being damped and also held securely in place.

Yep, I stand corrected! Goes to show that I don't have any direct experience of the G60, and was going on my old 1.8 8v PB Golf. They have a single V-belt for alternator and water pump, and when PAS is fitted you uses a double pulley and a second belt. Interesting to know that the G60 setup is different even though based on the same basic block.

Electrics aren't that bad - but can be expensive to fix and troubleshoot - but no worse than any other car of that time, it's just that the Corrado was more loaded with electrical extras than other VWs of the era, so more tends to go wrong. Hell, the Merc W124 even had a biodegradeable engine loom that would just dissolve into nothing. Make sure the ABS light comes and goes out like it's supposed to. I would say bodywork and rust is the most important factor - and if it's a VR6 a lot of mechanical stuff is no longer from the Golf 2 , but rather the Mk3/Passat and a lot of Corrado specific parts. Biggest issue is that you simply can't get some important stuff.

Only too true - and you need to take your eyes off the road and look down to check them, so a health and safety issue.....

I get that as well sometimes, and have been using A928S Bosch Aerotwin Twin Pack 21"530mm/19"475mm on Lupo wiper arms for a few years - I think it's just down to them not being the correct length on the passenger side, i.e. too long, as the Lupo ones end up being 475mm on both sides because they are both driver's side. It's expensive though to keep buying sets just to use half of them, so I'm putting up with it for now.

Yep, I think they are the same as the hoses used on the Mk3 VR6 288s that I fitted as an upgrade - they have a banjo fitting to the calliper, as opposed to the standard threaded attachment. I think at the time I just bought the Mk4 conversion hoses for the rear and a set of Mk3 VR6 ones for the front from Goodridge,

No, they were an optional factory extra on UK/Europe cars. US and Canada spec SLC/VR6s had them as standard, but the gauge pod is handed, so a LHD one won't with a RHD car. You are lucky, they are in high demand - I have a set in my car and I think they really finish off the interior and should have been standard on what has sold as a premium sports coupe. Certainly should have been standard on the Storm.

I'd replace the belt as your first port of call, also check it's at the correct tension - on a 16v/G60 there is a tensioning bolt on the alternator mounting bracket, so it's the position of the alternator that determines the amount of slack, on a VR6 the belt tensioner is spring loaded, so no adjustment possible except belt replacement. Some say talcum powder on the belt is a temporary fix as well.

Ha ha - I could get a lot of paint and body work repairs done for that - never really understood the obsession with Recaros - the stock seat are pretty good and supportive. They are nice to have and the electrics make for a cool toy, but not for ridiculous money. This would be one of the last mods I'd do unless a real bargain popped up.

No grey or beige leather available for these though from what I can see, so a bit limited? They are nice though.

Haven't had great experiences with Topran in the past myself - I'd go for Bosch, Bremi or Beru if buying a coil pack.

I guess technically the Mk2 has a cable actuated clutch, as it's a bowden cable from the pedal to the release arm with the weight on it. But the shift linkage is solid, with rods and levers. The Corrado and later types is hydraulically actuated, but the shift linkage is cable operated, so it's confusing for sure!

Correct - pretty sure all Corrados had a cable operated hydraulic clutch with master and slave cylinder arrangement fed by a pipe from the brake fluid reservoir. This is why a lot of Mk2 owners like to steal stuff our of them for their conversions. Does look like a handy kit though - depending on the quality of the components I suppose, but the total price is a lot cheaper than getting them OEM quality individually. The clutch master looks interesting as a possible replacement for the early type with a ring loop attachment?

I think the RHD ABS brake master is obsolete for sure, and has been for a while - the clutch masters are NLA at the dealer, but can still be got aftermarket with a bit of careful searching as they were used on a few other cars (especially the later ones) - but prices seem to be 200-300.

Can be difficult to get hold of - be aware that there are two different types for early and late VRs, the main differences being the length of the pushrod and the fittings that attach it to the clutch pedal - early has a round loop fitting that hooks onto the pedal, late has a white plastic clip that sits on the ball end - I've read somewhere that to use a late on on an earlier car you need swap the pedal and some of the clips over. I've got an early type waiting to go on my car (Brembo) and also sold a late ATE one to one of the guys on here. This old thread has pictures of both: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?106375-Vr6-clutch-Master-amp-Slave-cylinder-recommendations Part #s are in this thread: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?96597-VR6-Clutch-master-cylinder-and-pedal-replacement As far as I can remember I sourced the Brembo one through GSF.

The G60 is Digifant and the 16V is based on a variation of K-Jetronic injection, so I doubt very much they would be the same. In fact, Digifant on my old 8v MkII didn't have a fuel accumulator at all. as the injectors are pulsed directly, whereas K-Jet is usually mechanical fuel injection.

It's for when you eventually do a V8 conversion - or to keep your garage floor/driveway from melting when the fuel pump and tank go up in a ball of flames.... Happy New Year guys! ;)

VXT and Sprinter53 are the only current sources of new replacement lenses as far as I'm aware - though I haven't seen either at first hand, so can't comment on the quality, but they both look decent , but probably won't take the heat of a H3 filament bulb without cracking. If you search the web, there is plenty of info that suggests using various makes of Hella/Saab/Volvo/BMW or Rallye Design lamp units and removing the lenses and putting them into the original housings - often with mixed results. In fact I think the US seller just used Rallye Design lenses and lights. It's a difficult one, and what's really needed is hardened/temepered glass with the same proportion as the originals. Note that in some countries you won't pass MOT (TuV in Germany) without type approved and stamped lenses.