fendervg

I'm not disputing that they lift at speed, the upgrade solves that, but I was wondering what makes aero blades better than standard apart from looks - after all you can get aero inserts for normal wiper arms as well. Don't get me wrong, Lupo wipers are a great mod (I have them), but was trying to explain that there could be other less costly options that are nearly as effective. The lifting can actually be corrected mostly by grinding part of the nub away, and I've also heard of stronger springs being swapped in.

Weird - I have exactly the same ones from Heritage on my car and they fit a 1993 dizzy VER fine. Here is the info from my order: "Bosch Ignition Lead Set for VR6 SKU: 905QHT020" if you need to compare.

It should be the alternator moving outwards on its bracket that tensions the belt - I think you needs to loosen a couple of the other alternator mounting bolts as well as the toothed nut on the bracket to get it to move towards the block enough.

Do they really make that much of a difference? I know they are easier to fit and don't smear and look much better, but the rubber blade design is more or less the same. I have Lupo ones myself, but have never had a problem with standard wipers on other cars, especially the Bosch SuperPlus. I thought the main reason to replace them on the Corrado was the spring tension and getting the blades closer to the glass, and they look more sporty to boot.

Ah yes, remember them well - has them on my Audi CQ back in the day. It's a pity they don't make them any more, but I believe some rally/motorsport companies sell similar reinforced ones for competition use, but you would probably end up paying through the nose for them, which kind of defeats the purpose of this thread!

I think they need to be the specific ones from a Lupo GTI, but am open to corrections - a search on here should bring up the info. I know that VW mysteriously upped the price on them once they realised there was a demand. Some have also had luck with TT and BMW wipers. The other option is to simply dremel away the metal nub on each arms that stops the blades from making proper contact with the glass.

The Bosch ones that VW Heritahe sell work fine - I have a set on my car, also a dizzy one (1993). Bremi also do a good set. The only difference between coil pack and dizzy versions is a little in the length, and of course the 7th lead to the ignition coil, but the sockets and plugs are identical. Only thing I can think of is that you have a different dizzy cap fitment on yours but that would be pretty unusual.

That's one hell of a nasty spray job. There is no way that is original paint - I've never seen that happen on factory paint unless you throw acid at it. The sunroof thing is extremely suspicious. Storms would have all come with a standard spec inc. sunroof from the factory, then were rebadged in the UK - so a re-skin seems likely here if indeed the paperwork proving it's a Storm is genuine.

Beautiful car - a lot of effort and hard earned cash must have gone into that. It must have been nice to be able to do most of it in more or less one go - I usually just get the chance of doing one or two big jobs a year, apart from normal maintenance, and provided there are no Corrado emergencies.

Yes

Yeah, but I don't care about them lucky sods - they can put up with the extra labour 'cos they have the joy of a variable intake! (Id you manage to snag a proper VSR it doesn't have to come off to change the plugs).

The standard BKR5E or BKR5EKU work just as well and are easily available. Those Bosch ones were recommended by Stealth I believe, but I haven't heard any reports of them in action yet. Maybe someone else on here has tried them? Thee's not much point in putting long life super spark++++ etc. in a VR, just change them every year or 10-15K and you'll be grand.

That's a good shout - it might be losing it's memory if there is no power to it with ignition off, hence it won't know which song was playing last.

Hah - I think I'll be paying that site a visit! After doing some work on my fuel pump the other day I noticed that a 50cm length of line I put in about 2 years ago for a non-return valve was all cracked and perished, in some places right down to the inner braiding - you could even just peel bits of the outer housing off. Bought in a reputable motor factors with SAE/DIN ratings, but was only R6/7 - so be warned. Seems strange, because there is no heat or contamination in that area.

Does it need to build an index of the mp3 files on the stick in order to keep resume in memory, or maybe there's some special formatting required?

Yeah, not always the case as storage space is limited and expensive.

The problem is that the data can only be recovered if it is actually still there - deleted data will still be there unless actually overwritten, but the methods used to retrieve it are intrusive and can require systems to be shut down and will take a long time. Hacking into systems and retrieving sensitive stuff is a slightly different proposition as the target data is definitely there as it is needed - it's just a question of how well it is protected. Do you know if the mail was just from one sender to one recipient, or were there multiple recipients? If so, each should have a copy, so that might be worth trying. Hopefully this gets resolved for you soon.

It's attached to the ABS pump unit, but I'm not sure if it's actually part of it or just mounted on it - it's the same on mine. The actual ABS loom is the oval connector you can see at the bottom underneath the pump unit, whereas that's a two-pin connector. Can't find any reference to it in ETKA, but the RHD ABS system isn't very well documented - sorry I can't be more help - I'll take a quick look at mine in the morning.

Yeah, sorry to be the bearer of bad news - especially after paying lots of Corrado tax - but better not to skimp on these as they tend to prevent annoying rattles and the exhaust dropping without warning!

I think I remember these were reckoned to be probably the best all round saloon car available at the time in terms of reliability, build quality and driving experience - well wear.

If mail is being archived it will have been copied to the archive as it traversed the server (i.e. being sent), so it will still be there even if the recipient and the sender have deleted it from their inbox and sent item folders. How long it is then kept in the archive will be a matter of IT/HR policy. The archive may just keep a copy of the message text and the names and details of any attachments, but not neccesarily the attachments themselves, for reasons of space. If Exchange and Office 365 have auditing enabled, you may be able to see when a message was deleted there. If a mail has been deleted it will stay in the trash folder until that is emptied, even after that there are forensic ways to recover these from the server or a local Outlook .pst file. This is the point at which you would involve a specialist and your IT department and it may get expensive. If there is any whiff of things getting legal, don't mess around trying recovery yourself but get IT. HR and some experts involved. I've been down this road a few times professionally and you would be surprised at what can be recovered and reconstructed from any media such as a disk or USB drive unless it has been overwritten with random data several times - but as I said, if it is going legal, chain of evidence and tamper prevention of the original data is vital when it goes to court. My two cents - hope it helps.

That's what I was going by.

I think that's what they cost for decent ones from the likes of VW or even Miltek.

There's 2 on the engine and one on the gearbox as far as I know - 16v might be different so worth checking with another owner, but I think it's the same as the Mk2 Golf. It's not a difficult job, but you will need to get the car into the air securely, either on a lift or on axle stands and then have some way of lifting and supporting the engine and gearbox, either a hoist or a floor jack. The main problem is you might run into some stuck bolts that have seized. If you have the space and the tools, it's not too difficult, otherwise any competent mechanic will be able to turn it around very quickly for a couple of hours labour.

That's a good point - could be quite a viable option. How did you get it shipped and was there any hassle getting the rear glass and seals out intact and into the new one?