fendervg

These should all be possible under Engine, and Output Tests with the full version. VCDS simulates all the functionality of VAG 1551, but in a more user friendly way. However, VAG1551 does have a rather nifty little receipt printer built in ......

It doesn't give you nearly as many options as on a newer car, but you can at least view and clear faults for the engine and for the ABS ECU. It's also possible to monitor a wide range of sensor values - basically nearly every sensor that talks to the ECU will show up in a measuring block. Are you seeing any fault codes? High RPM at idle would certainly suggest an air leak somewhere after the maf, or a fauly ISV. I think there is a trick somewhere in the VAG-COM interface for exercising the ISV solenoid - sometimes a proper clean will also help. Check out all your vacuum lines and hoses (to the brake servo, FPR etc.) and the EGR and crankcase breather system - there is also a black baffle muffler box connected to the ISV that often cracks and leaks air.

Also the earth for the ECU and in the engine bay - these might have been disturbed or damaged when working on the ABS pump. There are earth points both sides of the dash, underneath the parcel shelves near the door frame.

Has to be a dodgy earth somewhere

Best way to spend it!

It will be a sad loss to see the car go - and to the community to lose such a great contributor and parts hunter. Both the G60 and Black Magic are wonderful examples, a credit to Keyo and his time and effort and apparently deep pockets! My take on this is that the money spent just doesn't come back with a Corrado - it's just not that type of car, and may never be, even dare I say it a Storm - and it's better to see it as a personal investment and money well spent to get it up to a certain standard for your own driving pleasure. It's for the love of it, not the gain (unless it's horsepower/torque) Best of luck with all your future plans Keyo and wishing you health - you will be missed!

Ah, win/win so - nothing like the old "plug it out and plug it back in again" !

Nice win - are you saying you just unplugged the PPS and then plugged it in again? Or did you swap out with the replacement that arrived? I have one stashed away here for this very eventuality.

Yeah, I had a quick look on some of the "seller"'s other items and couldn't help but be amazed at the huge variety of flooring there seemed to be in their house!

Looks dodgy, and never seen that seller before - I'd never buy off insta anyway - to be honest, there are very, very few people in Ireland that would be selling these kind of parts and they would all be known in the community - check out the autostadt forum and fb page - something like a Shrick would have come up elsewhere. Did they give you a location? Hopefully you got out before ending up out of pocket.

3M mounting tape

Just connect a mechanical pressure gauge permanently to the test nipple on the fuel rail! Even better would be to have the read-out in the cabin. I connected a gauge to do all the tests during troubleshooting mine a few years back - cranking pressure was fine, and running as well - but when left standing the residual pressure would drop well below the tolerance specified in the workshop manual.

Possible - hard to tell, I think it is right provided the upper black hose on the right goes to the fuel filter and then the black feed pipe, but depends on how the extra length of hose has been looped and routed. With it the wrong way around I would think you would have a no start situation and no fuel flowing past where the valve is. A bigger picture would help. Some better pictures in this thread: https://the-corrado.net/topic/86717-one-way-valve-on-fuel-pumppipes/ Thing is in this one, a faulty CPS was the culprit - not necessarily broken, but an intermittent or weak signal, and this can play havoc with the fueling as the CPS tells the fuel pump relay when to run the pump once it detects the engine turning. My guess here is that replacing the CPS will solve it, and cold starts after sitting for a while will be improved by the non return valve - fingers crossed!

Not great resolution, but black is to the engine and blue is the return - the valve is fitted with an extra bith of hose that curves around the lid and then connects to the OUT. This picture was the now discontinued official VW "fix" for fuel pump leakdown: unfortunately that's all I seem to have on it - the original thread with the dealer bulletin seems to be long gone, but the NRV part definitely looks more OEM.

It goes on the fuel feed line to the engine to stop the loss of residual pressure down the line back into the pump. It can be a bit hard to make out from the photos, I'll see if I can fine a picture from when I did it.

Yeah, I remember a long time ago that when fitting Bilsteins you need to change the spring plate depending on the year of the car - this may have been your issue.

That Porsche pump looks to be 3 bar, not 4 bar if you compare it on other sites - just something worth confirming with the supplier before ordering if it is for a VR6 you that you are getting g it for.

@cressa - will PM you. Nice to have for the archives seeing as the Canadian forum is gone - there is still one for dash out on vagdrivers.net Watch out for the shouldered studs that secure the matrix and ducting to the bulkhead - these do not like to turn easily, or when they do will just spin in place without coming out. I had to remove on after lots of different methods by wedging a spanner in place on the nut on the engine size, and then using a large socket on it in the footwell - hopefully yours will come out easy.

For the heater box flaps I used self-adhesive foam like Cressa above - available in A4 sheets from most arts and hobby shops. You can also cut it into strips to make up the seals - another idea I came across was to use draft excluder door seal strips from DIY stores and cut them to size. You can buy the neoprene in sheets with an adhesive backing and then use a template to cut yout seal with a craft knife - that's how those seals are made, except by machine, not by hand. Be very careful to make sure the control cables are properly attached to the box before refitting, as it's a pain to get to them afterwards - then hook them up to the controls and make sure they move freely, even with a bend on the cable before putting it back into the car.

I tend to agree with the 15 or 16 brigade - anything bigger tends to result in an awful lot of compromises in terms of handling, ride quality vs optics and stance. I run 15" OE speedlines or Golf VR6 BBS for daily duties - I think you could definitely drum up interest for some more 5 stud 16" Speedlines (or they may even still have some in stock or be able to get them at short notice as a result of the last group buy) or a replica of the 16" VW Motorsport Vento Cup Speedlines, but not sure about anything bigger.

I'd say once Vince works his magic, even a standard engine without the 263s or VGI will see improvements from one of his remaps! Not so much gains, but a smoorhing out of the torque delivery and better response.

Good tips there - there is also a drain plug on the bottom left of the "crack" pipe, water pump side - you can get to it from underneath. This is the official way of draining the system as it's technically the lowest point, but depending on how old the pipe is it may be seized or will break when you try and open it. To be honest if we are at the full lfush stage, I would advise replacing the pipe and the thermostat housing and thermostat if not done already. I usually fill via the header tank, it will drop quickly when the stat opens and you will need to add more, and work the air out by squeezing the radiator hoses. Some of it will come out via the tank overflow anyway. Then top up, go for a short run at temperature, let it cool and top up again to between min and max marks. Whatever you do don't remove the expansion tank cap when hot as it's pressurised.

I guess they can be used on Mk3s/Passat etc as well, as a lot of the Shricks were set up for OBD2 - they were always more numerous in the US than in Europe anyway. Let's hope they are not being scrapped accidentally!

I'd go for 50/50 too. That must be coming from somewhere, or it could be residual pooling of sludge - I'd check the heater matrix and the thermostat. I guess you would need to check every single pipe and hose. Might also be worth putting some actual rad flush/cleaner through it first - the bare metal will develop surface patina in a couple of hours if it's wet. Most important would be that the cooling system is acutally working to spec - what tends to happen is that if you swap out one part of the system with new, this puts additional pressure on the rest and causes a failure somewhere else.

No suppliers have them from new - second hand market only at this stage and would set you back at least 1-1.5k. Original VWMS VSR, on which the Schrick was based is even rarer, with only about 600 made, although many tend to prefer the Shrick as it will give both torque and hp gains, whereas the VSR only improves torque, but is more OE - both work on the same principle by switching the airflow via a flap at a preset RPM. Keep in mind that with the Schrick you can#t get at your spark plugs without removing the manifold. Good hunting!