Andi

There's critisism (which I can take), and abuse - which I can take, but after a while, chose not to.

You do not need to remove the front-end of the car to replace the rad on a VR6. There is a method.... I'm sure someone somewhere has it written somewhere, else I'll try and hunt it down.

That isn't the problem... it's all internal business made 100% worse by catty comments from club members who have no facts to base their comments on. I was the webmaster for the new site. The old site disappeared by accident (not my doing), then I closed the new site after constant abuse. It was a favour I was doing for the club, and I dedicated many many hours to the new site, but hey. Should all be sorted this coming Sunday, at the EGM. The previous webmaster warned me about the attitude of some of the members towards the position - I really should had taken his views to heart. It would seem there's just a few wannabe-webmasters out there that wanna do the job, but don't put their name forward, and cause hell for the person who does. I made a website for my previous car's club... no problems whatsoever. I still can't understand the stress I received from this! Ah well. And it hasn't re-appeared for reasons out of my control.

I have removed it - it has given me a ~2mpg increase in economy and the tubing for 'venting to fresh air' is easy - it fits perfectly into one of the little wholes in the wheel arch. The 2mpg increase may also be attributed to the ducting of cooler air to the induction kit from the front of the car, but yes, I did notice a clear benefit.

Using 'Search' on the forum might help ya' there.... Try this thread

Pity you can't keep up with me, though, m8. :lol: And not get on 3 wheels like I did.... But yeah, I agree, one tidy motor.

Dump valves redirect the vacuum caused when lifting off the gas to change gear (under acceloration), therefore allowing the turbo to freely spool-down, not be forced to a complete stop, then have to spool up from 0rpm when the gas is pressed again in the next gear. I get a pop from my VR6 at 1.5k revs. Good fun blipping the throttle in traffic when bored. Only ever done it since the Miltek was installed though. However, I wouldn't be suprised if my 190k mile-valves are quite as tight-as-a-tiger as they used to be. My MX5 used to burp flames like a bitch. But that was aggressively retarded cam timing. This is probably the same for the 20v Turbo - it'll be setup to get the best fuel/ignition timing under hard accelloration, as opposed to a more economical setup. I wouldn't worry about it in the 20vT. You ever seen V8 Supercars racing in Australia? Watch them as they change down gears for corners... ;)

Car dealerships sell cars, they don't tend to store 100s of cans of paint for every colour of car they've ever made. I think you'll find the paint is made in exactly the same way as a paint shop would mix up the colour - just VW think its a good idea to delete all the techy specs about older cars from their computers after a few years, just to make our lives difficult!

Mine's a better spec than a Storm...... ;) Cheaper too! :lol:

Yup, aircon is a dealer-fit, but only by an external party option, never done in the factory. And the Daviair systems are normally quite badly installed... but it works fab and I can't see the bad wiring and cutting, so out of sight, out of mind ;)

In the US, I believe you can get Indiglo dials for the early Corrado. Late C one's were harder to find. As these are essentially back-lit, they would work fine and you could remove the front 'flood lighting'.

The hose went on mine too - again, same place.... However...... I've slid an Mitsi EVO VII dump-valve silcone hose over the top of the T-hose and over the split.... Cost nothing (was in my mate's garage - and he got rid of the Evo years ago) and has held up for 8 months so far...

Well you didn't say your were early enough into your insurance to cancel ;) And yes, Adrian Flux will beat any quote - I'm with them myself.

Removal is an option, and detailed here: http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=1980

??? Had mine replaced road-side by SilverShield (I think it was - insurance sorted it for me) and took the guy 1 1/2 hours. New rubber, excellent fitting, even tidied up the old rubber from my interior - plus no leaks what so ever.

Dalek995, I had the exact same problem. Turned out to be warped front hubs (what your discs and wheels bolt onto). Total bill was around £800 when both sides were repaired by VW. Luckily, done under warranty so didn't cost me a thing. You can pick up some front hubs second hand for under £100 the pair... VW was about £175 each plus a lot of labour! Best thing you can do is get the car jacked up - preferably on a lift - a lot easier to work with then - and inspect the rotation of the wheels (hubs), see if there's any wobble (bearings), rubbing (warped discs)... Good luck. Dropping into a ATS Euromaster on a quiet day and slipping then a tenner normally gives you some time on the ramps plus a monkey to help you inspect. If you do need new discs, I can recommend ATE Powerdiscs. Cheap as chips from Eurocarparts, and actually rather good. They're grooved too. Personally I would avoid drilled discs like the plague - seen far too many cracked discs for my liking!

No, the time-circuits go under the ashtray. I'm sure I found the part number on EKTA... :) The hole in the engine is obviously for a Mr. Fusion installation.... :lol:

Tesco don't like modified cars, so there's not a lot you can do, I'm afraid!

I agree with black/red too - though maybe not that red... ;) Jim, boy-racery? Well, he does drive a.... ah ok, won't go there.

Sounds cool to me, but, as usual, the clinchers is gonna be - location...

:lol: Gotta laugh at the reflection in the bumper ;)

I have exactly the same problem. I've had it looked at by VW and PD Motorsport - both of which couldn't do much with it. A fluid change helped a little, but in the end, I just automatically slide into 2nd, then up to 1st now and it's no problem. A lot of C's have trouble selecting 2nd, so at least we get the benefit of most-likely standing still when trying to select our awkward gear!

Indeed, that is Guy's slightly-mental Storm with Vortech s/c and Schrik manifold thingy. And Climatronic - which looks cool in the flesh! (Pun not intended)

Yeah, they're definately value for money.

I have the set from Eurocarparts. £55 and are holding up well. I was impressed by the quality - good chunky leads and well made. A lot better than the poor mis-match of leads in there when I bought the car!