dirtytorque

See it as a good thing.It has unearthed something that needs attention. Going to look phat when it's done. 8)

blimey after that reply your boost return questions seems quite trivial. Oh dear.Hope he's joking. Anyway, pros and cons cons: oil vapour helps lube charger. boost return would also aid in breathig the engine. pro: hot air not being drawn into the G anymore. that's all i can think of. hth.

yeah there seems to be a few in the slough maindenhead area,iv've seen laods recently when driving to work.

Sorry to hear. What I don't like is that legally your on thin ground if you do anything to someone who comes in your house univited.Unlike america. I'm not a violent person but in that situation.. Hope you hear something soon about your car bud.

your slipping. No lube jokes. On my new install i did the same as above.If you have just taken the head off your system will still be primed anyway so just lavish it with plenty of oil and maybe kick it around on the starter a few.

The video demonstrates why the corrado is a classic. It's the only one that has retained its looks. Sorry,i'd be embarrassed to get in any of the others.

As you have a basic timing light find the tdc mark.Then from there locate the timing mark which is 6 degrees b4 it.Then put tipex on it. Than follow the procedures outlined above i.e disconnecting blue temp sender and reviing etc etc. once the engine/ecu is in service adjustment mode,make sure at idle you can see the tipex mark you made. B4 you do all this check your static engine timing like jezzag60 said above.

/\ Seriously dude read the 1st few pages on this thread.You don't have to read the whole thread.The first few pages should give you enough to go on.Then maybe ask more specific questions from there. Not that many FI 16V engines on here anymore...Not that I can think of anyway. :( If there are they are hiding away.

1.No 2. Any falt with the system will bring on the ABS light. 3.No.

No way? So the cow shed was no good for it then? :) Nice to hear the show is on the road.

Jp takes his head work very very seriously. You'll be paying for alot of R&D work. Should be a good product. 8)

it's something to do tho. Better than mugging old ladies. :) Still a while to go yet on mine,but it is now running.Just needs tuning & refining.

there is that yes.

:twisted: Hmm.

It looks even better without the charge cooler. Cleaner. :salute: Nice fabrication skills as always. I know how it can really help being able to make a bracket here and there. So the intercooler is really that more efficient?!

Each present their own challenges. However I would say that the turbo route was easier than a 16vg60 though. Definately. If your going for relatively low power you could run a smaller quick spooling turbo and get away with running stock internals and use stacked gaskets to lower compression ratio. Your maximum power would be limited but you would have very little lag so that the car would feel more urgent etc. Could be fun?!!! :)

chuck norris wouldn't ley him off. :| :)

Not one to stur or anything but have you pm'd stoney your paypal details yet??? :grin: He owes. :)

Your welcome. Are you still interested? You'd easily get your target power from it,although if that is what your after maybe the saner thing to do would be to buy a VR or buy and tune a g60? I''m just trying to be realistic and sensible here.If you do decide to go 16vg60 though i'm sure you'd get alot of help along the way from everyone here. :salute:

Hi steve Welcome. Do a search under clutch pedal won't return.Common fault with the Corrado hydraulics. Cheers. :)

Nice work man. Top stuff. 8)

Okay..it would be boring if we just read old threads all the time however it has been covered in great detail in this thread and others on the forum. There is a definitive guide on Vortex that i refered to in the beginning. However.. BBM use to make an intergration kit so that you could just bolt the necessary g60 16v parts together but alas this is no more. Soooo do a search for jezza's 16v g60 flusted 16vg60 or yandards 16vg60. The one thing you'll see about those three engines is that they all tackled the conversion differently in many ways. It's like that.There are many ways to do it. Not the easiest conversion...because it is not simply a case of getting a donor engine and dropping it in. It's more like scrapheap challenge. Decide on your base engine and then consider how you are going to lower compression. Obtain all the necessary 16v and g60 engine parts. Drive the alternator somehow,most mount it under the charger and then ensure all your pulleys align. Have an intake manifold that has the intake on the correct side of the engine bay,e.g scirocco manifold or a cut down audi s2 manifold etc. Then it is standard engine conversion stuff,i.e engine managment. You can use g60 digifant with a chip. Or go standalone,i.e MS or Emerald etc Water pipes is a mixture from both engines Boost pipe work etc Most will tell you it is easier to go 20vt or 16vt,and I'm not going to argue with them. 8)

you can do a rough check by holding the engine at a certain rpm shining the timing light down to you see the datum mark on the fly wheel which should stay in roughly the same position at a particular rpm if the car is stationary. Then if you tap the block with a spanner or something you should se the datum mark move as the ecu retartds the timing.Again u need a timing light for this. Take it to a good garage,and get them to confirm that it is Det that you can hear.Sounds like your ignition timing is out and the ecu(which can only retard timing so much) can do enough to make it stop. Does the timing mark on the intermediate shaft line up to where it should? Are your coolant temps normal?

yes,its a low comp 1.8 8v 4 pot, however the g-larder always makes a little boost even at idle. Thats why I asked how long you have had the car. What I was hinting at is,is it in tune? In regards to your original question,for me maybe a little under very small throttle openings but it should come alive fairy quickly around 2k+ imo.

A good garage would have seen that procedure b4 as it is the same for all digifant engines like the common pb engine in the 8v mark 2 golf. Every town usually has a vw specialist or two so maybe try and find your local one. Hope u sort it out.